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X-F250

NC Fairlane with watery fuel?

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Afternoon guys,

 

Last week I put about $20 worth of regular 91 in the Fairlane and noticed it was running a bit rough afterwards but thought nothing of it since my coil was on its way out. The coil finally died yesterday so replaced it this morning (along with the TFI module, dizzy cap & rotor, new plugs & leads, etc) and it fired right up and idled beautifully. Thinking it was fixed I went to go for a run around the block. I got up the hill and around the corner, then all of a sudden it stumbled and almost cut out. Now if you give it more than about 1/4 throttle it cuts out, but only when it's in gear. It'll idle and rev fine in park and neutral but as soon as you select a drive gear it starts to play up. I did idle down to the servo to put a bit of premium in and it's slightly better, but still not really drivable. I did notice that it blows a bit of white smoke under acceleration as well.

Any ideas?

 

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Turns out it had water in the fuel. Half a bottle of meto and some more 98 and she's good as gold again.

 

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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45 minutes ago, X-F250 said:

Turns out it had water in the fuel. Half a bottle of meto and some more 98 and she's good as gold again.

 

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

any idea how the water got in? condensation from sitting near empty ? 

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Ugh, it's not as fixed as I though it was. Went for a 40km drive this morning perfectly fine. Pulled up at home, switched it off and went upstairs. Came back out at lunch time and it wouldn't start again. Same as before, cranks fine, Smartlock seems to be working fine, just no spark. Could it be the hall effect sensor in the dizzy?

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Replaced the dizzy with the one that was on my old motor, the one that came out looked pretty tidy from the outside (reco'd Bosch I'd say) but was pretty sad looking on the inside. Still won't fire but I'd say the coil is trash since it's got some pretty decent cracks in the body and the spare one it was running on yesterday is much the same.

Failing that, the only other thing I can think of that's stopping it from starting is a dying ECU.

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If the Coil is visually cracked, it will likely be no good.

If the hall-effect sensor has failed in the closed/power-on position, it can overheat the coil.

 

You can easily test the primary/secondary winding resistance on any coil, using a multi-meter.

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