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Plankman

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Hi all, after the ute sat idle for twelve months whilst I was studying, I started back working on it last month. I fitted the EL ECU 6TBA, keeping the log manifold for the time being, but reckon I've screwed up as it turns over, fuel pump primes but doesn't fire.

I had reset base timing to 0 degrees btdc prior to taking out old ECU thinking this was correct to change to EL ECU. I looked at the fuel pump relay after checking it at the diagnostic white plug under the dash. The relay connector was heat distorted and found the LPG feed spliced into that circuit so cut that away, fitted new relay and connector plug. All fuses are good, as in engine bay five fuse block (black cover) behind battery and under dash fuse panel. Checked coil power plug and that read okay too. Battery has been fully charged numerous times for trouble shooting. Smartlock light blinks as normal when car is off, goes out when cranking and the interior light lights when door(s) opened. I checked the fuel to the rail and I had fitted them arse about so fixed that.

The changeover relay and connector for the fuel pump has five pins and five wires on the connector plug, the original only had four and I don't know what to do with the fifth wire Connector plug is PAT Premium CPS-031 and relay is also PAT REL-001. There are only four wires on the loom for the original connector.

I am planning to change dash/bcm/loom(EL) etc to XH to save splicing looms and then fit the BBM going without LPG keeping the 6TBA and auto box for the time being.

Next days off I am going to check dizzy at number 1 tdc, just want to get it running again, it was running set up as XG prior: Log, XG GLi ECU and dual fuel.

any input would be great, thanks.

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There may be some pin-out differences, between the EL and ED(XG) ECU.

Have you tried re-fitting the original ECU?

 

I would also double check you have the relay plug wired correctly.

Sounds like you do, as the fuel pump primes.

 

Start by determining what you're missing - ie, spark, or injector pulse.

If the distributor is not sending a pulse to the ECU, it won't energise the injectors.

 

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1 hour ago, Panko said:

 

 

do you think this is it... 
Fitting an EL ECU into Pre-Smartlock EA-EB requires the use of a Stage 1 J3 chip to disable the Smartlock function in the ECU. Contact us for more information.

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8 hours ago, deankdx said:

 

 

do you think this is it... 
Fitting an EL ECU into Pre-Smartlock EA-EB requires the use of a Stage 1 J3 chip to disable the Smartlock function in the ECU. Contact us for more information.

Could be. It is an XG which according to David is an ED ECU. 
 

i have a feeling i will be asking similar questions when i convert the XF over. Im still not 100% i have it wired up correctly for EL injection 

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3 hours ago, Panko said:

Could be. It is an XG which according to David is an ED ECU. 
 

i have a feeling i will be asking similar questions when i convert the XF over. Im still not 100% i have it wired up correctly for EL injection 

i was looking at that J3 link.. thinking...hmm, that might even work on the gemini lol

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On 7/22/2020 at 1:13 AM, SPArKy_Dave said:

There may be some pin-out differences, between the EL and ED(XG) ECU.

Have you tried re-fitting the original ECU?

 

I would also double check you have the relay plug wired correctly.

Sounds like you do, as the fuel pump primes.

 

Start by determining what you're missing - ie, spark, or injector pulse.

If the distributor is not sending a pulse to the ECU, it won't energise the injectors.

 

Thanks All, Hi Dave, yeah doing one thing at a time.  I am looking at the replacement changeover fuel pump relay and connector: the new set has five wires on the connector where the old and loom had only four at a loss of what to do with that lot. The pinouts appear to be same with the exception of pin 32 which is 'recirc cabin air' on the XG and 'LPG cut out or OFF' on the EL ECU. Thanks 

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This XG has Smartlock and reading the T.I.Performance guide should only be an issue if BCM doesn't have Smartlock as per EA EB. If you are doing the XF I'm thinking you will need a Smartlock code generator (bypass gizmo Ebay $115) or use ECU, BCM and loom from donor car.

 

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You need 1,2,3,4 connected

Pin no.5 is not needed.

 

1 and 2 is the relay coil - energised by the ignition circuit.

3 and 4, is the power from battery, and out to the fuel pump.

 

If you haven't chopped any wiring yet, you can de-pin the plugs without cutting any wires - using a tiny screwdriver or connector de-pin tool.

Then push the existing connector pins into the new plastic plug shell.

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hi, tested fuel flow at rail into bottle, all good. Tested resistance at TFI plug, all good. Tested voltage at TFI plug, no good. Tracing back wiring to find fault. Found crappy soldering at big round plug on firewall; black wire soldered to the large core red wire,  feeding to LPG relay, may be split, got to trace the black and see where else it goes.

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