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motoSycho

New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

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I probably should have asked this yesterday,

 

Other than the obvious up and down , is there a position the lifters need to sit? I noticed the hole in the side of them, does that need to line up with the hole in the block for the oil?

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I probably should have asked this yesterday,
 
Other than the obvious up and down , is there a position the lifters need to sit? I noticed the hole in the side of them, does that need to line up with the hole in the block for the oil?
Yep Slydog has it. Flat tappets aren't actually flat. They're slightly domed, and the cam lobes are slightly tapered and offset to the cam bore. They don't push the lifter squarely, but rather roll it on one outside edge while pushing it up. This causes the lifter to rotate in its bore and wear the face evenly. The minute it stops rotating is when it gets wiped.

This is also why you need a zinc oil at all times, especially run-in (trust me on this, learnt the hard way) as the pressure on that very small sliding contact patch between cam and lifter would easily be thousands of PSI.

This is why many OEMs went to roller cams in the 80s. Not for performance, but because they had to start taking zinc out of the oil due to it causing cat failure.

Try to avoid turning the engine over too much once you've installed the cam and lubed it. You want the cam lube to be on it until the very moment you (hopefully) fire it up and get that oil splashing on it at 2000-2500 rpm.



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^^^^^

and the exact reason to use quality solid lifters with the laser cut oiling hole on the lifter face. They cost more initially but years of trouble free operation and massively reduced risk of cam break in failure are the pay off. I use the Isky units but camtech and a few other grinders are now selling the lifters in 6 cylinder sets. Well worth it. 

 

If you are careful with your break in procedure and ensure the thing doesn’t even get close to idle in that critical 1st 20 minutes of running then you will be fine with normal solids. But there is a risk. Good quality oil and a bottle of comp Cams engine break in lube mixed in and you’ll go a long way to ensuring successful run in. Just don’t let it get near idle and make sure your pushrods are spinning. 

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Thanks gents. Starting my 6 days off today, so go go go.

 

Plan is to get it all back together and back in the ute. I'll put the original manifold and Weber back on for the start up as I know it all works fine and came off the previous running motor.

 

I'll prime the oil system using the drill method, and then get the new motor fired up and straight up to 2-2500 rpm for 20 minutes???

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6 hours ago, motoSycho said:

So mucked around getting the timing gears on, and the top part of the chain seems well tight, and the lower loose? Is this correct , or do I need to pull it off and try and get the chain a link looser on the top part?

 

https://www.facebook.com/rod.walker.520/videos/10158557425839516/

 

video doesn't work, not set to public? 

 

not 100% sure what you mean on the timing chain, but there's no adjustment in them.. if it's dot to dot.. it's set @gerg might be able to explain it better

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Not sure what happened to the video. Doesn't matter, got it sorted.

 

And todays progress. Wrong sump gasket, so didn't get that on.

 

Got the fuel pump, water pump etc. on. Bolted the manifold on and sat the carby and air cleaner on there for a looksy.

Went with a 9x3" setup. It will sit up higher when I put the Aussiespeed east/west adapter on there. I want it poking through the bonnet and I'll make a new bonnet scoop to cover it.

 

This video should work.

https://www.facebook.com/rod.walker.520/videos/10158558189089516/

 

106176872_10158558028429516_423122161941

 

I've got a tall Aussiespeed rocker cover coming as well. Not sure if I will paint it gold or leave it raw alloy.

 

The odd thing about this manifold is that the carb mounting pad is angled??? There are no markings on the manifold other than a firing order.

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that's an interesting issue with the angled carb mounting.. wonder if there's merit in correcting that also with another spacer etc

 

video comes up with this message 

Sorry, this content isn't available at the moment

The link you followed may have expired, or the Page may only be visible to an audience that you aren't in.

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The carb mount is angled so the carb sits flat when the engine is in the car, most rwd cars have the engine tilting 3-6 degrees backwards in stock form, although that one looks like it may have been machined further, was the manifold off a boat?

 

 

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Video got flagged  because Guns and Roses was playing on the radio in the background!

 

At the moment I'll run the mechanical pump and see how it goes.

 

Not sure about the manifold coming off a boat, could have. Guy I got it off had it running on his crossy.

 

Put the new waterpump on last night and it looks like it has different sized bolt holes to bolt the pulley to! The bolts off the old one don't fit!

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Put the new waterpump on last night and it looks like it has different sized bolt holes to bolt the pulley to! The bolts off the old one don't fit!

 

Yeah, most come with new bolts included, converts them from imperial to metric.

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The carb mount is angled so the carb sits flat when the engine is in the car, most rwd cars have the engine tilting 3-6 degrees backwards in stock form, although that one looks like it may have been machined further, was the manifold off a boat?

 

 

Yeah I think you're onto it Thom, the stud sticking out doesn't look perpendicular to the flange, meaning it may well have been angle-milled to suit a marine application (ie: engine sharply angled down to a V-drive or leg)

 

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14 hours ago, Grimmy said:

That’s a standard redline manifold . I have a couple and the angle looks the same . I wouldn’t worry about it 

 

Cool good to know. I saw one of their Holden manifolds seems to have the same slope.

 

Waiting on some parts to arrive, hopefully today. And trying to get the goddamned son of a bitch shitty bloody dipstick tube out of one of the blocks to put into the new one!!!!!

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Cool good to know. I saw one of their Holden manifolds seems to have the same slope.
 
Waiting on some parts to arrive, hopefully today. And trying to get the goddamned son of a bitch shitty bloody dipstick tube out of one of the blocks to put into the new one!!!!!

Take the sump off and use a long 10mm socket over the tube and tap it out gently. That’s what I have done in the past for real stubborn ones so I didn’t bend and break them. Not like the early days that you could whip down to the local wreckers for one anymore


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51 minutes ago, Banno said:


Take the sump off and use a long 10mm socket over the tube and tap it out gently. That’s what I have done in the past for real stubborn ones so I didn’t bend and break them. Not like the early days that you could whip down to the local wreckers for one anymore


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You sir, are a legend! Done, and easy done!

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I've got a Protec water pump and be fucked if I can find bolts to fit to bolt the pulley on with! The originals don't fit, so I grabbed some M8x1.25, which should have been the metric equivalent, and they don't fit either! So now another 60k round trip into town to try again!

Fuck me!! Just make the bloody things the same as the originals!

 

In better news. This arrived today.

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