deankxf 20,284 Posted May 17, 2020 it might still come good, they are a bit weird.. it probably popped the pushrod out due to sitting so long the lifters bled down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted May 17, 2020 On 5/16/2020 at 12:17 PM, Hgpilot said: .....until I can afford a 351! (So probably in there forever) The way it should be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dex 2,065 Posted May 17, 2020 My blue xf had a stuck Open a smidge exhaust valve , so Previous owner removed both intake and exhaust pushrods to that cylinder.. only found out after 12 months driving ! it was only after it bent and popped out the pushrods on another cylinder and ran like absolute crap that I became aware of it . driving it with one cylinder down for so long I just thought it had just a 3.3 “ 200 motor in it that was a bit tired . bunged another head on with ALL 6 cylinders running and the Ute ran like a champ 2 deankxf and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 18, 2020 12 hours ago, deankdx said: it might still come good, they are a bit weird.. it probably popped the pushrod out due to sitting so long the lifters bled down. That's a good point. Not sure how the intake rod didn't fall out. Still might! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 18, 2020 38 minutes ago, bear351c said: The way it should be. Haha true Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 18, 2020 23 minutes ago, dex said: My blue xf had a stuck Open a smidge exhaust valve , so Previous owner removed both intake and exhaust pushrods to that cylinder.. only found out after 12 months driving ! it was only after it bent and popped out the pushrods on another cylinder and ran like absolute crap that I became aware of it . driving it with one cylinder down for so long I just thought it had just a 3.3 “ 200 motor in it that was a bit tired . bunged another head on with ALL 6 cylinders running and the Ute ran like a champ Yeah my Ute is running really well now apart from the clacking. The transmission is still doing some funny things though. I might need to start another topic lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,284 Posted May 18, 2020 5 minutes ago, Hgpilot said: That's a good point. Not sure how the intake rod didn't fall out. Still might! dont rev it too high for a while it will either come good.. or it won't.. crossflows can tick away for yonks.. call it a TICKford enhanced crossflow.. hear it ticking ... TICK ford.. lol. there's ways it can be fixed, if your Dad was a mechanic he'd know the potential of why it's ticking.. (wiped cam, gunked up or worn lifter it the most likely, can be bodged by grinding the rocker shaft post so it takes up the slack(if you were doing this you'd get a spare one.. ...incase the motor was being fixed later, otherwise you add a shim to set the pre load) 2 1 macman, gerg and Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 18, 2020 9 hours ago, deankdx said: dont rev it too high for a while it will either come good.. or it won't.. crossflows can tick away for yonks.. call it a TICKford enhanced crossflow.. hear it ticking ... TICK ford.. lol. there's ways it can be fixed, if your Dad was a mechanic he'd know the potential of why it's ticking.. (wiped cam, gunked up or worn lifter it the most likely, can be bodged by grinding the rocker shaft post so it takes up the slack(if you were doing this you'd get a spare one.. ...incase the motor was being fixed later, otherwise you add a shim to set the pre load) Haha Tick Ford, that's good. Unfortunately this Tick Ford doesn't have any more power. Yeah he reckons it's the all gunked up. The oil that was in it was horrible sludge. We ran eninge flush and new oil hoping to free the lifter. My oil pressure is much better now (I have a gauge) so who knows, it may come good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 18, 2020 If you can still be bothered, you can pull apart the lifter and clean out the plunger and disc valve. If the guts are a bit stuffed (worn), source another good one and swap the guts over so you have the same lifter face running on that lobe but with new guts.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 1 1 bear351c and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted May 18, 2020 If you can still be bothered, you can pull apart the lifter and clean out the plunger and disc valve. If the guts are a bit stuffed (worn), source another good one and swap the guts over so you have the same lifter face running on that lobe but with new guts.Sent from my CPH1607 using TapatalkI've done that many more time than I would care to admit, but it's always been successful 2 deankxf and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted May 18, 2020 13 hours ago, Hgpilot said: The oil that was in it was horrible sludge. Hell yeah.! Looks like it ran for 100,000 kays without changing the oil.! Other way you get sludge like that is running the engine too cold. ( wrong thermostat/fans/oil viscosity) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 19, 2020 Yeah not sure I can be bothered now. You would have to take the head off I'm assuming? I might still do it yet but would probably just get a whole set of lifters. Yeah the oil has been in there at least 15 years and only ever ran cold basically. Not to mention the thermost housing and water pump were rusted out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,284 Posted May 19, 2020 4 minutes ago, Hgpilot said: Yeah not sure I can be bothered now. You would have to take the head off I'm assuming? I might still do it yet but would probably just get a whole set of lifters. Yeah the oil has been in there at least 15 years and only ever ran cold basically. Not to mention the thermost housing and water pump were rusted out. you can get the lifters out with head on, but its a tricky job. if it's sat 15yrs it may come good if it was ok prior see how it goes after its been run for a while and plan on changing the oil again sooner if you want the best chance.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 19, 2020 2 hours ago, deankdx said: you can get the lifters out with head on, but its a tricky job. if it's sat 15yrs it may come good if it was ok prior see how it goes after its been run for a while and plan on changing the oil again sooner if you want the best chance.. Ok, I'm curious now on how you get the lifters out without taking the head off. Because it really is only one lifter tapping. The rest are all pumped up nicely. But like you said it might come good. In fact, I started yesterday and the oil pressure came straight up too 40+psi (much better than the 20 or less it did have) and there was basically no taping. But, when it heats up a bit, the oil pressure comes back down and starts tick fording again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,284 Posted May 19, 2020 41 minutes ago, Hgpilot said: I'm curious now on how you get the lifters out without taking the head of @Mr Polson might have a link to a Hydraulic Valve Lifter Puller he used? i did it bush mechanic style with a ground down coat hanger wire to hook into the hole that lines up with the pushrod oil hole.. needed to work the lifter up and down a fair bit to get the crud to clear so it would come out.. (one is difficult to access, but is possible) @Thom might also have a suggestion, but you mentioned your Dad was a mechanic, so ask him also Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted May 19, 2020 Ok, I'm curious now on how you get the lifters out without taking the head off. Because it really is only one lifter tapping. The rest are all pumped up nicely. But like you said it might come good. In fact, I started yesterday and the oil pressure came straight up too 40+psi (much better than the 20 or less it did have) and there was basically no taping. But, when it heats up a bit, the oil pressure comes back down and starts tick fording again. It's normal for oil pressure to drop as it gets warm. What oil are you using? [mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention] might have a link to a Hydraulic Valve Lifter Puller he used? i did it bush mechanic style with a ground down coat hanger wire to hook into the hole that lines up with the pushrod oil hole.. needed to work the lifter up and down a fair bit to get the crud to clear so it would come out.. (one is difficult to access, but is possible) [mention=43]Thom[/mention] might also have a suggestion, but you mentioned your Dad was a mechanic, so ask him alsoWouldn't have a link, bought it in person from a local speciality tool shop.Think it was Toldeo or T&E brand.That was some time ago and I haven't used it since. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 19, 2020 11 minutes ago, deankdx said: @Mr Polson might have a link to a Hydraulic Valve Lifter Puller he used? i did it bush mechanic style with a ground down coat hanger wire to hook into the hole that lines up with the pushrod oil hole.. needed to work the lifter up and down a fair bit to get the crud to clear so it would come out.. (one is difficult to access, but is possible) @Thom might also have a suggestion, but you mentioned your Dad was a mechanic, so ask him also Yeah ok I will look into that. Dad is the one who told me to rip the head off and replace all the lifters. I might ask him again and see if he has ever pulled one out without taking the head off. He said he could tell me every thing about a holden 253 but he only ever had to fix 1 falcon in his short time as a mechanic because they never break. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 19, 2020 19 minutes ago, Mr Polson said: It's normal for oil pressure to drop as it gets warm. What oil are you using? Just some 10w-30 Castrol stuff I think it was. Not sure, the old oil did the same though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,284 Posted May 19, 2020 5 minutes ago, Hgpilot said: Just some 10w-30 Castrol stuff I think it was. Not sure, the old oil did the same though. 25/50 for old worn out crossflows is better.. shell for older engines this one i think i used in My worst engine.. worked better than the others Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted May 19, 2020 Just some 10w-30 Castrol stuff I think it was. Not sure, the old oil did the same though. First issue is 10W-30. Bit thin for a crossflow, especially if it's got high kms.Second issue is Castrol. Has a bit of a reputation for being a sludgy oil.I personally use Penrite in all my cars, high zinc levels in their HPR oil which is great for older vehicles, and it's Australian.I'd use either HPR30 or Classic Light if I was you.https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/penrite-hpr-30-20w-60-5l-hpr30005/p/A7960735https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/penrite-classic-light-20w-60-engine-oil-5l-clasl005/p/A9307311 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 19, 2020 11 minutes ago, Mr Polson said: First issue is 10W-30. Bit thin for a crossflow, especially if it's got high kms. Second issue is Castrol. Has a bit of a reputation for being a sludgy oil. I personally use Penrite in all my cars, high zinc levels in their HPR oil which is great for older vehicles, and it's Australian. I'd use either HPR30 or Classic Light if I was you.https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/penrite-hpr-30-20w-60-5l-hpr30005/p/A7960735https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/penrite-classic-light-20w-60-engine-oil-5l-clasl005/p/A9307311 Ok fair enough. I will give this oil a bit of a run through and flush it again and put some heavier weight stuff in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 19, 2020 If you want to clean up a sludgy engine, use a diesel oil. It has higher amount of detergent to remove and hold soot buildup. Then dump it, add some oil with correct amount of zinc in it and see how it fares.Hotrodders used to use Shell Rotella as it was an old school diesel oil with good zinc, but they eventually took that out too. So don't go putting that in on the advice of old-timers.Nowadays, you either have to seek out a correct oil with 1400 ppm of ZDDP (ie race oil, no good for the street) or put a zinc additive into normal oil.Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted May 19, 2020 If you want to clean up a sludgy engine, use a diesel oil. It has higher amount of detergent to remove and hold soot buildup. Then dump it, add some oil with correct amount of zinc in it and see how it fares.Hotrodders used to use Shell Rotella as it was an old school diesel oil with good zinc, but they eventually took that out too. So don't go putting that in on the advice of old-timers.Nowadays, you either have to seek out a correct oil with 1400 ppm of ZDDP (ie race oil, no good for the street) or put a zinc additive into normal oil.Sent from my CPH1903 using TapatalkGet customers often doing this with the diesel oil, generally older folk that know about it. They much prefer it over engine flush.Here's a chart that includes the zinc PPM of Penrite oils, few have more than 1400 1 SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 19, 2020 Looks like the HPR 30,40 and 50 range is the go for the long haul, but diesel oil just to flush out for maybe 1000k or so.Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hgpilot 9 Posted May 19, 2020 Interesting. I might try some diesel oil for a bit before the next change. Then some HPR 30 looks like the go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites