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Xf-Farimont-Ghia-85

Xf Fairmont 250 E.F.I. project first car

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Hi guys I am building an XF Fairmont Ghia auto for my first car, I was wondering if any of you could answer a few questions that I have.

1.

I only have 3 Injectors that I've managed to get flowing. Should I replace them or retrofit something else, like AU or EL series, would this make a difference? If so, what would be the best to use? (standard ECU).

2.

The Aircon Compressor is cactus. what can be retrofitted to also run the later model R134A gas. 

3. 

I would also like to swap out the auto for a 5 speed. I've read about the Borg Warner T5, and that the bell housings are different throughout the models. what model would be best and what model bell housings fit straight on? If I put the 5 speed in, can you still run standard ECU?

 

Thankyou in advance, only new to this forum. :)

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@Panko for the manual conversion and @SPArKy_Dave for air con 

 

 

manual conversion these days.. in my opinion.. LEAVE IT AUTO. cheaper, easier  already works..

manual conversion if you must.. i'd personally buy a manual parts car to wreck (1986-1992 XF to wreck) (can be from an XF ute, just use your tailshaft) 

 

 

gearbox wise you'll ideally need an XF everything to convert it(you can hobble together the bits, but it would be painful these days) 
the better gearbox is from EB to EL falcon(world class version, stronger, and has syncro on reverse)

 

if you are hobbling the conversion together from bits and pieces, 

you can get a clutch pedal pin kit from Mal Wood in Qld, (bolts to the auto pedal box) (can cut the brake pedal down in car if you are careful)

not sure if the later clutch pedals are same(EB to EL.. possibly are, but the pedal box is different)
auto tailshaft will work on the manual, 

you'll need a crossflow specific bell housing (cast iron) for the T5, i saw one on facebook marketplace the other day with a gearbox for $300 odd (victoria)

flywheel you can use the later ones from even E series i think, but may need to drill the holes sligtly bigger for the older bolt size a 84DA block should have 

 

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Hi guys I am building an XF Fairmont Ghia auto for my first car, I was wondering if any of you could answer a few questions that I have.
1.
I only have 3 Injectors that I've managed to get flowing. Should I replace them or retrofit something else, like AU or EL series, would this make a difference? If so, what would be the best to use? (standard ECU).
2.
The Aircon Compressor is cactus. what can be retrofitted to also run the later model R134A gas. 
3. 
I would also like to swap out the auto for a 5 speed. I've read about the Borg Warner T5, and that the bell housings are different throughout the models. what model would be best and what model bell housings fit straight on? If I put the 5 speed in, can you still run standard ECU?
 
Thankyou in advance, only new to this forum.


Hi mate, answers as follows:

1: get those injectors done up or find good replacements of the same flow rating. Later injectors will have the wrong flow rate and run rich.

2: compressors can be done up by an auto electrician. The old gas has been out of circulation for decades now. The entire system needs to be revamped with new seals and o-rings, probably TX valve, reciever dryer, flush out and new oil. AC costs money to maintain, no getting around it.

3: manual conversion needs:

* Bellhousing & fork for crossflow 6 cyl to T5 (XF only), or an aftermarket one can be used, say from CRS

* manual flywheel (157 tooth neutral balance Windsor one will also do)

* Manual pedal box

* Clutch cable

* Clutch pedal

* Early or later 6-cyl T5 boxes will fit up to EL, but ratios vary. XF-EB1 has a 3.50 1st gear. EB2-EL used 3.25:1 1st gear. A V8 T5 has nice closer ratios (2.95:1 1st) but won't fit because the input shaft is 16mm longer, as does all the manual boxes from AUs onwards

I would use the EB2-EL ratios. I have an EA box in my 302 XE and it's a bit short in the lower gears.




Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

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12 hours ago, Xf-Farimont-Ghia-85 said:

Hi guys I am building an XF Fairmont Ghia auto for my first car, I was wondering if any of you could answer a few questions that I have.

1.

I only have 3 Injectors that I've managed to get flowing. Should I replace them or retrofit something else, like AU or EL series, would this make a difference? If so, what would be the best to use? (standard ECU).

2.

The Aircon Compressor is cactus. what can be retrofitted to also run the later model R134A gas. 

3. 

I would also like to swap out the auto for a 5 speed. I've read about the Borg Warner T5, and that the bell housings are different throughout the models. what model would be best and what model bell housings fit straight on? If I put the 5 speed in, can you still run standard ECU?

 

Thankyou in advance, only new to this forum. :)

 

1.  Just get them cleaned and tested.

2.  I think they are a generic sanden, just replace with another of the same type.

3.  Buy another 5 speed xf for this, you'll need the pedal box, bell housing, gearbox.  Your existing tail shaft should be okay.  Standard ECU will be fine with this - there is a plug for the clutch switch which adjusts timing when you put the clutch in - no biggie.

 

5 speed makes it more fun, but auto is cheap, easy to trick up by replacing with a c4.

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6 hours ago, deankdx said:

@Panko for the manual conversion and @SPArKy_Dave for air con 

 

 

manual conversion these days.. in my opinion.. LEAVE IT AUTO. cheaper, easier  already works..

manual conversion if you must.. i'd personally buy a manual parts car to wreck (1986-1992 XF to wreck) (can be from an XF ute, just use your tailshaft) 

 

 

gearbox wise you'll ideally need an XF everything to convert it(you can hobble together the bits, but it would be painful these days) 
the better gearbox is from EB to EL falcon(world class version, stronger, and has syncro on reverse)

 

if you are hobbling the conversion together from bits and pieces, 

you can get a clutch pedal pin kit from Mal Wood in Qld, (bolts to the auto pedal box) (can cut the brake pedal down in car if you are careful)

not sure if the later clutch pedals are same(EB to EL.. possibly are, but the pedal box is different)
auto tailshaft will work on the manual, 

you'll need a crossflow specific bell housing (cast iron) for the T5, i saw one on facebook marketplace the other day with a gearbox for $300 odd (victoria)

flywheel you can use the later ones from even E series i think, but may need to drill the holes sligtly bigger for the older bolt size a 84DA block should have 

 

Ok, thankyou everyone, I'll look into those options and let you know how I went, I'm thinking about just restoring the auto first and get it driving and possibly do the 5 speed later.

Thanks guys

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Hi and welcome. 

 

1. Injectors - I am running ones from a 4L EB I think. I was able to bring them in from the USA brand new. A lot of USA Fords use similar if not the same parts. Injectors was one of them, and so I found them brand spanking new. 
However you can get yours renewed easily enough. 

 

2. I dont have much to say about. thats a @SPArKy_Dave question. be warned though, he will drag you in for hours :D 

 

3. Manual conversion. 

I did this on my XF Ghia wagon. I suggest using an early T5, and make sure its a T5 and not a single rail 5 speed. (T5 reverse is below 5th, SR 5 speed, reverse is left of 1st) 

As mentioned above, the early T5s have shorter 1st gear, so if you are like me and keep the original 2.77LSD diff like i did, the shorter 1st gear is perfect, so you wont be labouring or riding the clutch too much. I now run a 2.92 diff, factory manual ratio which i like. if you want it to go quicker, 3.23 or 3.45 is the way to go, which come out of E series XRs. BUT, if you do that, it would be a good idea to match the T5, so a later T5 (longer 1st and 5th) with a shorter diff, or early T5 (shorter 1st and 5th) with a longer diff. any combination will work though. 

Manual pedal box, you MUST strengthen them around the clutch pin, because they crack and break the pin out of them. 

The firewall, around the clutch cable hole, also will crack. I have only ever run standard duty clutches, but after 18 months with the T5 in my XF, sure enough the firewall cracked. again worth plating it before its too late. 

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2 hours ago, Panko said:

Hi and welcome. 

 

1. Injectors - I am running ones from a 4L EB I think. I was able to bring them in from the USA brand new. A lot of USA Fords use similar if not the same parts. Injectors was one of them, and so I found them brand spanking new. 
However you can get yours renewed easily enough. 

 

2. I dont have much to say about. thats a @SPArKy_Dave question. be warned though, he will drag you in for hours :D 

 

3. Manual conversion. 

I did this on my XF Ghia wagon. I suggest using an early T5, and make sure its a T5 and not a single rail 5 speed. (T5 reverse is below 5th, SR 5 speed, reverse is left of 1st) 

As mentioned above, the early T5s have shorter 1st gear, so if you are like me and keep the original 2.77LSD diff like i did, the shorter 1st gear is perfect, so you wont be labouring or riding the clutch too much. I now run a 2.92 diff, factory manual ratio which i like. if you want it to go quicker, 3.23 or 3.45 is the way to go, which come out of E series XRs. BUT, if you do that, it would be a good idea to match the T5, so a later T5 (longer 1st and 5th) with a shorter diff, or early T5 (shorter 1st and 5th) with a longer diff. any combination will work though. 

Manual pedal box, you MUST strengthen them around the clutch pin, because they crack and break the pin out of them. 

The firewall, around the clutch cable hole, also will crack. I have only ever run standard duty clutches, but after 18 months with the T5 in my XF, sure enough the firewall cracked. again worth plating it before its too late. 

Thankyou Panko 😊

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20 minutes ago, Xf-Farimont-Ghia-85 said:

Thankyou Panko 😊

if you decide to do the manual conversion, bump this thread or tag one of us, somewhere i have a photo of plates for the firewall and reinforcing the pedal box.
also forgot to mention the T5 uses a different gearbox cross member, the EA one is similar/same(also rare now) but you can mod the stock one to suit if need be.
i wouldn't change the diff ratio on a stock Efi engine car, and i wouldn't modify an efi engine'd XE XF either.. they go plenty good enough standard when working right. 

 

 

 

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I'd suggest to get it driving with the Auto trans first, then plan for a Manual trans later on if the auto is no good.

 

XF factory ULP (blue top) bosch injectors - 0280150726 - are 196cc/204g/min flow rate, with 14.5ohm resistance

and the e-series - 0280150790 - injectors, are 191cc/149.7g/min and 15.9ohm resistance

 

ie, the e-series injectors will make an XF run very slightly leaner, and the injectors will draw slightly less current.

 

@Panko, could be why your wagon is more fuel efficient than most XF's?

 

 

 

https://www.polog40.co.uk/article_injector_table.php

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

 

Aircon compressors are Sanden TRF90 I believe?

(TR stands for Turbo Rotary scroll compressor)

They can be used with R134a, but only with different oil, and a complete line/component flush out.

I wouldn't convert it personally.

 

It's far less work, to run the Hychill Minus30 refrigerant - which is quite close to the old R12, in pressure/temp operational properties.

 

R134a, would also need a modern parallel flow condenser core (ie, from an XG ute/panelvan), to make the aircon work correctly.

R12 only needed single flow condensers, as it is/was a better refrigerant.

(ie, it's able to reject heat much faster, compared with R134a)

 

R134a, also works at a higher pressure, thus loading the compressor, which will drain more engine power, compared with R12/Hychill.

 

Here's an OzFalcon Aircon thread -

 

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1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

I'd suggest to get it driving with the Auto trans first, then plan for a Manual trans later on if the auto is no good.

 

XF factory ULP (blue top) bosch injectors - 0280150726 - are 196cc/204g/min flow rate, with 14.5ohm resistance

and the e-series - 0280150790 - injectors, are 191cc/149.7g/min and 15.9ohm resistance

 

ie, the e-series injectors will make an XF run very slightly leaner, and the injectors will draw slightly less current.

 

@Panko, could be why your wagon is more fuel efficient than most XF's?

 

 

 

https://www.polog40.co.uk/article_injector_table.php

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

 

Aircon compressors are Sanden TRF90 I believe?

(TR stands for Turbo Rotary scroll compressor)

They can be used with R134a, but only with different oil, and a complete line/component flush out.

I wouldn't convert it personally.

 

It's far less work, to run the Hychill Minus30 refrigerant - which is quite close to the old R12, in pressure/temp operational properties.

 

R134a, would also need a modern parallel flow condenser core (ie, from an XG ute/panelvan), to make the aircon work correctly.

R12 only needed single flow condensers, as it is/was a better refrigerant.

(ie, it's able to reject heat much faster, compared with R134a)

 

R134a, also works at a higher pressure, thus loading the compressor, which will drain more engine power, compared with R12/Hychill.

 

Here's an OzFalcon Aircon thread -

 


David remember i purchased 12 from the US, a set for you. 
 

I remember when i found them, the specs on the ones i fitted were much closer flow rate than what you have listed above, but yes were slightly lower rate. 
 

Its somewhat frustrating that you still cant fathom the thought of my car returning such good consumption on the open road, yet it would do it before i replaced the injectors, and its still higher more than factory claims for highway consumption. 
Yes mine will do 9L/100km on the highway, but thats still more than factory claims. 
Its about air flow and efficiency. When the engine is ticking along at about 2000rpm at 100km/h, with a good K & N air filter, extractors and free flowing exhaust, of course its going to be more efficient than a stock x flow. 
 

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I definitely agree with Panko about the whole 2.77 diff with early T5, or 3.23 kinda ratio for the later ones.

My XF ute has a late T5, with 3.23 diff. Panko and I done some comparisons once, when he still had the 2.77 diff, he'd do the same revs at 100km/h with the early T5 and 2.77 as my ute with the late T5 and 3.23.

 

Definitely also recommend the reinforcement of the firewall. If needed I can grab a pic of my ute which has the firewall reinforced. Clutch pedal has never been touched to my knowledge though.

 

And unless you're specifically wanting a manual, they're a really nice vehicle to drive when the auto is working well.

 

I not long ago completed a 4000km trip across Tas/Vic/NSW in my Ghia wagon, with the EFI 250, auto (and working AC). For the long distances, just putting it in D and setting the cruise control is great.

 

For reference, across that trip, with a fully loaded car, AC almost always on (and running R134 gas), and the wrong cam in the motor (carby cam which has different valve timing), I returned an average fuel economy of 13L/100.

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, dex said:

Check both brake light switches ,,

cruise control cars have two switches on the brake pedal ,,

ones to shut the cruise off if brake pedals pressed . 

Last priced ,, $20 from repco 

even just adjusted too tight.

i also had one where i joined the wires up back to front, was like the brake lights were on all the time (only for the cruise cut )
My gemini aftermarket cruise isn't working anymore and i can't figure it out though.. could be something broken

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