tobiashaak1 4 Posted January 13, 2020 I’m about to start a 347 stroker build. Looking for around 400hp- 450hp built to last anyone got any tips or combos they can tell me about? (E.g. Camshaft-Valve and Spring combos) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,869 Posted January 13, 2020 You'll need to run a main cap brace, or the block will often develop cracks. AFR185 cylinder heads are proven, and an intake/carb/injection setup to suit the intended use (rev range etc) of the engine. The go-to cam, was the Ford Motorsport E303 cam, but I believe there are better/more modern aftermarket profiles available now? 1 tobiashaak1 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted January 13, 2020 For longevity, you are better off with a 331 over a 347, most 347's end up with the wrist pin behind the oil rings because the piston are so short, another draw back is also because of the short piston they tend to rock in the bores when the engine is cold and flog them out. There are plenty of ways to reach your power goals but you could help us out by telling us what your intentions are for the car (also what car it's going into), is it a street/strip car, with emphasis on street (and if more street than anything will it be a highway cruiser or an around town brawler) or strip (those can be two pretty different combos) or are corners more your thing, or even just a cruiser that sounds good and is capable of the occasional skid, what is the running gear you are planning to put behind it is it going to be a manual, is it going to be an auto, if it's going to be an auto which one and how much high stall are you willing to run, what's your rear end setup and do you have and what ratios would you like to run the more info you provide the better people can help you 5 GRIFF, gerg, NZXD and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tobiashaak1 4 Posted January 13, 2020 It’s going into an XH2 XR8 Manual street car. Going to put a Tremec TKO 600 gearbox in it and eventually a 9”Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tobiashaak1 4 Posted January 13, 2020 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Thom and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted January 13, 2020 Just a general stab in the dark, if I was chasing your desired power level with an un restricted budget for camshaft id go with a comp 281hr (assuming you want to stay efi) it is a grind that would still work with a factory ecu that has been re tuned, stock ratio roller rockers or some 1.7 ratio if your pistons have enough valve releif in them, trickflow have some of the nicest 5.0l heads on the market if your pocket allows for them, their twisted wedge (Or 190cc) heads are really nice and probably a little overkill but give you some room if you ever want to step up your combo later on and a trickflow box r intake should be more than adequate for what you need but this combo is probably close to 6 or 7k without considering any of the short motor or machine work A more budget friendly version would be to have a set of well ported gt40p heads and an au/explorer intake with the same cam as above and a set of 1.7 ratio rockers would be a lot kinder to your wallet but would require a lot more elbow grease or paying someone to port the heads and intake if you haven't done it before (Or you may have to hang around someone that will teach you), but under both of those top ends you still need to build a short motor, and while a stroker will make more torque the stock roller bottom end if it's in good condition (most roller 5.0s are unless they have over 500,000ks and even then they sometimes are still good) would be more than adequate for the task of making 4-500hp but that is getting up near the limit of the factory block in most cases 3 tobiashaak1, gerg and GRIFF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted January 14, 2020 All good info, there. Also consider the 9 inch is VERY heavy, why did you want one? Ease of changing ratios, or just because? E series diffs can be just as strong, if built right, and obviously, they bolt straight in. As Thom asked, what are you going to do with the car? Burnouts, Caltracs, weekend cruiser.? 2 Thom and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted January 14, 2020 I love the SBF Windsor, so always interested to read about builds. My first question is, what is your budget. That will dictate your build and end goal. What do you want to do with it? Time and time again the BW diff has proven itself to be reliable for the power you are looking for and a nine inch isn’t really necessary, however depending on what you intend the car for will dictate the running gear. A 302w with 10:1 comp and a mild roller cam and AFR 165 heads will hit the 400hp mark, lots of information on the mustang 5.0 forums. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 4 tobiashaak1, Thom, gerg and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tobiashaak1 4 Posted January 14, 2020 I just thought I’d put a 9” in because they’re known for their strength. I’m going to use the car as a tough but reliable street cruiser and maybe the occasional drag race. Just wanted to make sure everything was going to be reliable. I’m aware that when building a high hp engine it’ll either be big, tough and unreliable or not as big, but still reliable.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted January 14, 2020 If that is your intended use I would leave the BW diff that’s in it and maybe spend money on that instead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 tobiashaak1 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites