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steve48

Xg xr6

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Hey have just rebuilt a ef block 94dt head with stage 3 cam and valve springs ,220cc injectors (au),aftermarket fuel regulator, and el ecu with j3 chip.running original dizzy out of original xg motor.iv managed to get it started and idles fine but over 3000rpm wants to die,now when i wind it over it has no spark and is flooding any suggestions??

Cheers

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Sounds like it's drowning, what mods were done with the J3 chip? No spark is a bit suss. Is the dizzy in good nick? What fuel pressure are you running? Why do you need to run higher pressure with the bigger injectors? Was this all part of a package, or did you put this together yourself?

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The j3 was tuned for stage 3 cam,220cc injectors, disable smartlock and t5 gearbox.iv just had the dizzy apart with a mechanic and is fine.running about 40psi fuel pressure,i have also run an-6 braided fuel line with new fuel filter.it was running rich and was about to tune the fuel pressure but now have no spark but winds over 

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Time to go back to basics, like power to coil, coil output, leads, that sort of stuff. You've be amazed at what random problems can happen simultaneously but may seem related at the time.

The "flooding" could just be spark breakdown.

I recently got an XB going that had been converted from points to electronic, but after doing coil, leads, plugs, module, found that the previous owner had used the feed for the 9V (ballast) coil to the new 12V one. Weak spark was the result. Bypassed it all straight from the battery, started first kick.

Moral of the story: check supply first. Fuse panel could be corroded, burnt or melted fuse terminals, someone could have fitted a kill switch that's gone bad, a crook relay somewhere.... So much fun to be had

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Yeah il check all this out tomorrow,as when i crank it now its not even coffing or backfiring.yeh very tru you never know what someone has done to it prior.will give ya an update in next day or two cheers for ya help

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Got 12volt at coil ,12 volt to top of distributor, the leads were reading 2ohm have put the original ones back on that are reading 4-5ohm but still no spark,have takin j3 chip out of el ecu (which i intend to run) also tryed original xg ecu and no spark,my next guess is the hall sensor or tfi module???

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Got 12volt at coil ,12 volt to top of distributor, the leads were reading 2ohm have put the original ones back on that are reading 4-5ohm but still no spark,have takin j3 chip out of el ecu (which i intend to run) also tryed original xg ecu and no spark,my next guess is the hall sensor or tfi module???


I don't know enough about the differences between the coilpack or dizzy wiring to know where there could be an issue. But it sounds like you're on the right track and still in the same area as my first post (dizzy signal) so keep going. I don't know how to test the dizzy without pulling it out, connecting it back up to the harness and coil and spinning it by hand to produce a test spark out of the coil lead.

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Tested tfi module and pip signal (pip signal is pulsing between 3-4.5 volts when cranked ) does that sound about right? Iv noticed the injectors are pulsating real fast which could be causing the flooding,iv bridged the temp sensor as im running after market gauges. i read that the temp sensor can cause the injectors to pulsate fast and cause flooding if not connected.but still have no bloody spark

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el computer wont run in xg without a MAF sensor unless somehow the j3 has changed this.

XG's run a MAP sensor.

 

put a multimeter set in ohms on pins 4 and 5 of the ignition module CONNECTOR, not the dizzy side.

1. Is the top one.

The resistance should be 0.4-0.5v.

If not, replace coil.

 

Also you can place a link between pin 5 of the TFI module and the connector pin 5. With ignition on ON , it should read 0 .

If not replace tfi module.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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13 hours ago, steve48 said:

Tested tfi module and pip signal (pip signal is pulsing between 3-4.5 volts when cranked ) does that sound about right? Iv noticed the injectors are pulsating real fast which could be causing the flooding,iv bridged the temp sensor as im running after market gauges. i read that the temp sensor can cause the injectors to pulsate fast and cause flooding if not connected.but still have no bloody spark

 

ECU Coolant temp sensor, (two wire blue plug) needs to be connected to a functional sensor,

or the ECU will pull back the timing, increase injector duty cycle and make the engine run rich,

among other things.

 

No spark, can only be a few things - Hall Effect (pip) sensor, TFI module or coil.

 

 

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Have checked module connector resistance and is reading 0.6v,then linked the tfi module pin 5 to pin 5 in connector and read 3.6 so will replace module it has spark but is very weak spark.have put original thermostat housing back on with connector for ecu coolant temp sensor and tapped another hole for aftermarket sensor,this has solved the flooding of engine when cranked,and have dropped the fuel pressure back to 30psi.have put xg ecu back in and will introduce the j3 once i get it running,it seems im slowly tracking the problems with your help cheers lads

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Just put my old spark plugs back in started strait away i think the ones that were in had alot of shit on them from the over fueling,running the xg ecu with out j3chip also but will get that programed to run with xg ecu.took it up road ran smooth as didnt miss or rev hang at all.cheers alot for all the pointers bloody awsome!!

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