Slotted rotors or standard?

[This_Guy 3]

Hi all, I was just wondering what your thoughts are on brake rotors. Should I continue machining my originals? Get a set of replacement standard rotors or should i go slotted? I have a 2009 Falcon ute  that i daily and I just want something that works well. 

 

Cheers. 

[bear351c 10,269]

Slotted and dimpled, are generally better than stock.  By now I reckon all front rotors are vented.? Kangaroo paw seems to get the nod, as well.

Better pads and fluid will help too. 

[Mr Polson 10,214]

I ran DBA slotted (T2s) on the front of my FG with no issues. Never got the brake shudder back that the late model Falcons are prone to.

[This_Guy 3]

12 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

I ran DBA slotted (T2s) on the front of my FG with no issues. Never got the brake shudder back that the late model Falcons are prone to.

 

13 hours ago, bear351c said:

Slotted and dimpled, are generally better than stock.  By now I reckon all front rotors are vented.? Kangaroo paw seems to get the nod, as well.

Better pads and fluid will help too. 

 

Cheers for the quick response, I was reading https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/cms/brakes/machining-or-replacing-disk-rotors article and I wasn't sure if that was the common thought in regards to going with new rotors over just machining. I will have a look into some slotted new rotors as well as pads and fluid. 

[bear351c 10,269]

No probs.  Have seen brand new rotors with run-out, (need machining) out the box. You just never know......

Usually, car companies put on the softest, quietest, cheapest parts when they sell a vehicle, so if they are original, doesn't mean they're good. 

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Goes both ways. I have T2's on mine and wanted them machined. They had no run-out but did have a slight taper due to some heavy abuse. Took it in to be machined at a reputable specialist. Got it back, taper was gone, but now the rotor had run-out that was more than double the factory max tolerance. 

 

Took it back and said 'Oi!' 

 

They run em up again, but still the run-out was not within factory spec. I know by this point I've wasted man hours pulling thebortors off and putting em back on, and they could not try to mahine again as the rotor would become too thin. They assured me it would be fine, and i got them to sign a receipt and put a 10,000km warranty on it. Just in case it ended up with pulsation or uneven contact and they'd buy me some new T2's. 

 

Anyway, morale to the story, with single piece rotor and hubs, it's probably best to just get them replaced. Or have them machined on the car. they are difficult to machine off the car due to the inbuilt bearing cups and require a very accurate jig to get right.