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I have a 1985 xf with a mild 351 clevo in it which continues to over heat. I have a chinese 3 core alloy radiator which I bought off ebay for 200bucks, a Spal 15inch thermo. It use to when cruising sit around 100degrees so I changed the thermostat now sit around 80degrees  cruising but once I get stuck in traffic it creeps back up to 100 and sits and then just continues to climb even when I cruise again. 

 

I don't have a shroud on the thermo fan is it worth me getting on made up? Or am I better off upgrading the radiator? and if so can anyone recommend a good brand or any other advice on the matter. 

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Use a proper Clevo thermostat from T.Meyer engines in the USA (they own the design patent now),

Get a shroud.

Get a proper radiator.

 

If not over heating when driving along, I doubt it will be timing related.

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I have a chinesium radiator in mine, runs cooler than it ever did with the old copper/brass. I run EF thermos (factory, not aftermarket) and even when i was running them at half speed before with the old HD 6 cyl rad, I never boiled over in traffic.

A 3-core is more than what is required. Increasing the amount of cores above 2 has diminishing returns; each additional core recieves hotter air than the one in front of it.

How big is the fan? Have you got it pushing or pulling?

Are you running the correct thermostat with the bypass plate?

What temp does the thermo cut in at? Mine does just above half. The fan switch is an 82.5 degree VDO screwed into the port on the water pump normally used for the PVS. It triggers a Redarc timer relay set to come on for a 30 second period to stop the fans cycling on and off so rapidly. This has the temp gently cycling by 2 segments on the factory gauge (XE).

If you have a decent cam, you will need extra ignition timing at idle. I run probably mid 20s (MSD programmable) but would be equivalent to mid teens on an old vac dizzy. Running factory spec timing on a cammed engine is in effect running way retarded.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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Thanks for all your responses
 
- Thermo is 15inch
- The the thermo is pulling
- It is a Mr. Gasket thermostat and I didnt replace a thermostat bypass plate when I replaced it. Where does the bypass plate sit?
- I never set the thermo on a switch it run constantly once car starts because of my over heating issues
- It does have a small cam in it unsure of specs as the guy did not provide them when I bought the engine. I am running a MSD 6al2 box but unsure of what timing is set at as I took it to a shop to get tuned.

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https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/thermostats/parts/4363

 

Thats the thermostat I put in and I will take a photo of it removed next chance I get to send to you. 

 

I may I gotten the wrong one as it says it opens at 160° is that to high? I may have gotten confused in thinking it was farenheit

160 will be in Fahrenheit. If an engine is running at 160C, it would've lost its water a long time ago.

 

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

The 4363 is totally the wrong thermostat for a Cleveland.

That's a Windsor thermostat.

 

There is no bypass foot on the underneath of the plunger.

It will make a Cleveland engine, run hot.

 

image.png

 

 

Ok we have found the problem then. Could you please send me a link of the correct thermostat to get. Would I need to replace the bypass plate aswell?

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5 hours ago, Michael.Charalambous said:

 

 

Ok we have found the problem then. Could you please send me a link of the correct thermostat to get. Would I need to replace the bypass plate aswell?

 

Just see if it still has the plate in there.

If not, get one.

 

If it DOES have a plate, then I'd leave that one in there.

 

The high-flow Robert Shaw thermostat from T-Meyer Engines,

is the one.

Sold under their TRACK BOSS range.

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/high-flo-thermostat/

Looks like they're out of stock in the USA till the new year, atm.

 

This local Mustang parts mob in Carrum Downs Vic, seem to be selling some on ebay  -

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Track-Boss-351-Thermostat-351c-Cleveland-Mustang-1970-1971-1972-1973-Mach-1-Ford/283549738162?hash=item4204e1a4b2:g:NXgAAOSwgD9cnEyS

 


 

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Warning -

Dayco do an identical looking thermostat for much cheaper.

The current Dayco ones are apparently close, but still no good - the bypass foot/plunger, being too short.

 

Dayco DT66A's, USED to be re-boxed made in USA, Robert Shaw 333-180's.

(the T-Meyer ones are the USA made, Robert Shaw thermostats)

 

Dayco thermostats, now come out of China unfortunately, I believe.

 

I can't comment on the Tridon brand Cleveland ones,

but the last few Tridon ones I bought for the Crossflow six, were re-boxed Moto-Rad brand - made in India from memory.

 

I had to return some of the Tridon ones too, as when I tested them in a pot of boiling water on the stove,

I found some would open crooked, and/or stick.

 

Due to the amount of crap quality around, I always test thermostats on the stove, nowadays.

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19 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Just see if it still has the plate in there.

If not, get one.

 

If it DOES have a plate, then I'd leave that one in there.

 

The high-flow Robert Shaw thermostat from T-Meyer Engines,

is the one.

Sold under their TRACK BOSS range.

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/high-flo-thermostat/

Looks like they're out of stock in the USA till the new year, atm.

 

This local Mustang parts mob in Carrum Downs Vic, seem to be selling some on ebay  -

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Track-Boss-351-Thermostat-351c-Cleveland-Mustang-1970-1971-1972-1973-Mach-1-Ford/283549738162?hash=item4204e1a4b2:g:NXgAAOSwgD9cnEyS

 


 

 

 

Thanks heaps for all your help mate ill definitely send you a pic most probs saturday when I have some free time of the thermostat out so we can see if theres a plate or not and go from there 

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Thats fine, mate. As long as it's there. 

 

In the past, I've run Clevo's with a Dayco (DT66, or something) and a bog standard XF 6 cyl radiator, in an XD, and an XA ute, with no issues. The XF engine bay/bonnet is not the most friendly shape for a Clevo, but the thermo fan should cure that. Make sure you have a shroud around the fan, so ALL the air is being sucked/pushed through the fan opening.

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Sorry about the shit quality photos the forum wont let me upload any high resolution.

 

It will appear there is a bypass plate in there but the thermostat does not have the foot block off on it.

 

Whats my best options to go from here? Get the correct thermostat with bypass block off foot? And get a shroud for the thermo fan? 

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The one in your photo, looks pretty right. Might be worth checking it on the stove, in boiling water. The orifice plate is fine. Have you checked the timing is still where it was set.??

After a good hard rev, the dizzy can spin if the hold down clamp isn't done up tight enough. I reckon a fan shroud, but, others may disagree. 😄

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Thanks for your responses bear351c how do you check the thermostat on the stove (never done it before) so put it in a pot of boiling water im assuming and what am I looking out for? 

 

I havn't checked the timing for when it was set I will look into that 👍

 

Definitely looking for a shroud to put on the thermo aswell 

 

The fan is currently sucking through the radiator what is the better option push or pull or is it much over much? 

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Yep, put it in boiling water, and you should see the 'inside bit' move. Hold it with some needle nose pliers, and pop it in a glass of cold water, it should do the opposite. 

 

Push/pull is usually a matter of looks over function. While driving, you don't need a fan, so it should only come on when you stop at the lights, or idling around town. 

Could try using heavy cardboard around the fan, to see if it makes any difference.?? 

 

This is the TMeyer 'stat I put in the XB.

 

IMAG1424

 

They do this....

 

RS 333-180

 

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