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CLEVO SLEEVED BLOCK STD BORE

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this block came in a pallett of old clevos i already bought 2 off him for previos builds,from another machine shop that closed its doors,so the sleeves were already fitted,its pretty good and 2 bolt mains,hmmm 

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honestly whats it worth,he has just prepped it to go to the next level,i said stroker kit and he went grrrrr dam piston will come out the bottom of the bore to much ? wtf ?

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I've heard the 408 does that, and you have to relieve the bottom edge of the bores, and the skirt of the pistons. Anyone know for sure..?  $500 bucks for a good solid block, is good.

But depends on the dreaded core shift gremlin. Do you know if it was sonic tested.? 

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I've heard the 408 does that, and you have to relieve the bottom edge of the bores, and the skirt of the pistons. Anyone know for sure..?  $500 bucks for a good solid block, is good.
But depends on the dreaded core shift gremlin. Do you know if it was sonic tested.? 
Is core shift a problem when it's sleeved anyway? Easy way to see core shift: look at the cam tunnel in relation to the cast boss around it. If it's not centred, good chance that the water jackets shifted by this same amount.

I have never heard of anyone needing to mod the bores but crank clearance to piston skirt would be dependent on what crank/rod and piston combo you use.

Say you used a short skirt piston with a long rod and high gudgeon, that might not hit the crank. But using chev rods on an offset-ground crank might get you into trouble. Ditto for big end clearance.

Personally, I wouldn't go long term with more than 383 on a clevo. The extra 25 cubes aren't worth it in my opinion.

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Is core shift a problem when it's sleeved anyway? Easy way to see core shift: look at the cam tunnel in relation to the cast boss around it. If it's not centred, good chance that the water jackets shifted by this same amount.

I have never heard of anyone needing to mod the bores but crank clearance to piston skirt would be dependent on what crank/rod and piston combo you use.

Say you used a short skirt piston with a long rod and high gudgeon, that might not hit the crank. But using chev rods on an offset-ground crank might get you into trouble. Ditto for big end clearance.

Personally, I wouldn't go long term with more than 383 on a clevo. The extra 25 cubes aren't worth it in my opinion.

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393's can live a long life but I put 408's in the same category as 347's, most of them are oil burners

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12 hours ago, gerg said:

Is core shift a problem when it's sleeved anyway? 
I have never heard of anyone needing to mod the bores but crank clearance to piston skirt would be dependent on what crank/rod and piston combo you use.

 

Good point.! 

 

A lot of machine work involved in sleeving all 8 cylinders, was thinking they may have wanted to regain the famous 351ci capacity. 

 

I've only heard, never seen, that someone has had to trim the bottom of the bore casting to maintain around 1/8" clearance from the crank counterweight. Guess it would depend on whose crank and rods, I guess....maybe earlier blocks had tighter tolerances on such stuff, but, as time goes by, and moulds wear out. ?  Probably never heard of a 408 stroker back in the '60's. 

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Good point.! 
 
A lot of machine work involved in sleeving all 8 cylinders, was thinking they may have wanted to regain the famous 351ci capacity. 
 
I've only heard, never seen, that someone has had to trim the bottom of the bore casting to maintain around 1/8" clearance from the crank counterweight. Guess it would depend on whose crank and rods, I guess....maybe earlier blocks had tighter tolerances on such stuff, but, as time goes by, and moulds wear out. ?  Probably never heard of a 408 stroker back in the '60's. 
I seem to (fuzzily) remember that Aussie cast clevos are a bit different in the bottom of the bores to the US D0/D1 blocks..... How so I can't recall but maybe I'm just on drugs or something (or need to be)

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I've been thinking of whether to go 393 or 408 for my XE S-pak ute, 

saw on a cleveland facebook page a while ago that Competition Engines designed a "better" piston for the 408 stroker, JE pistons part No. 247063 -5cc F/T, 247056 -13cc dish

Has shorter lower skirt for the poke out the bottom of the bore, top ring moved down as some have broken the top of piston where the valve relief is,

 

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https://www.competitionengines.com.au/content/speed_shop.php?c=49 $ $985

or as a stroker kit

https://www.competitionengines.com.au/content/speed_shop.php?c=618

I like the internal balance 4340 crank, H beam, $3150

as for sleeving not sure, for a 4.125" bore sleeve (0.250-0.280" thick) block would have to be bored to around 4.38"-4.4".

I've thought of similar for a xflow, sleeving for a 3.75" bore,

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wow thats vg info ,so i wonder how much his pistons are ? and could i have the sleeved block bored .155 for the 434 cleveland ?
I would think that you'd be well and truly into water by then. You can't press a sleeve into nothing.

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so what stroke would be the go ? 393 408 ? and just go a 020 ?
A 408 stroker has a 4" stroke on a +40 bore. The factory 400M has this same stroke but has over an inch of extra deck height (and rod length) to allow for it. Ford did this for a reason: so their engines would last. It's actually closer to 402 cubes but they thought rounding it down to 400 sounds better. So a 400 bored +40 makes it 408 as well

So when you're building a 408 stroker, you're just making a short-deck, short rod 400M.

You wouldn't go +40 on a clevo, +30 is the accepted limit. This makes 406 cubes. A 408 would be Windsor based, which can be punched out up to 60 thou on the early blocks.

A 393 is just a smidge shorter at 3.85" stroke, +30 on the bore. A 383 is the same thing but on a 3.75" stroke, finally a 377 is 3.75" stroke on a standard bore, or 3.70 stroke on a +30 bore (not 100% on which one that is).

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All Cleveland stroker kits are rated at 4.030" bore

4"x4.040=410ci 4"x4.030"=408 4"x4.020"=406 as for 393 3.85"x4.040=395ci 3.85"x4.030"=393 3.85"x4.020"=391

383 is 3.75"x4.030" or 3.75"x4.040=385 3.75"x4.020"=380

377 is a 351c crank with a offset grind to SBC 2.1" journal at 3.7" on 4.030", but not sure who makes pistons for this anymore, used to be ACL.

(351 windsors can be made 427ci with 400M crank offset ground)

once thought of being unique with a 302 crank offset ground to 325ci. as i've got plenty of 302 cranks & local shop can offset grind cranks.

Most stroker clevelands tend to be 393,

Given you've got a freshly resleved block, you can get std/4.000" size pistons for a 3.85"/393 kit from precisionintl which would be 387ci

my black utes 302 block will need sleeves next rebuild already worn 4.040", for S-pak ute I'm going a 4.020" on a used std bore block, but as for 3.85/4" not sure.

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Thanks for clearing that up Fordman, you're right, 408 is +30 and I have heard of a 410 which would be the Windsor punched out +40.

It's rare to find a machine shop willing to offset grind these days. With cheap stroker kits around, one would think that the market for that kind of machine work would have dried up.

I too have toyed with the idea of a stroker 302C, some even reckon that the 332 Windsor with a 3.25 crank and +30 is the sweet spot for that engine, any more and the longevity is questionable.

I'd love to do a big bore 347 using the 3.25 crank on a 4.125 Dart 8.2 block and CHIs, sort of like a modernised boss. That would be a sweet little donk.

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