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Travis

Temperature

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I don't get why a thin wall is said to run hotter. Can someone explain the physics in that? Also, sleeves are also meant to run hot. That doesn't make sense to me. Sure, heat transfer is reduced, but wouldn't that just cause the surface temperature to be higher, not the rest of the engine?

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I'm no professor, but, I figure that a thinner wall transfers heat faster, so the thick cylinder absorbs heat and soaks it through the cast iron in the block, not just the water. Maybe.....?

 

Clevo's do run warm, especially in the XD/E/F engine bay. Should be OK with a good radiator and fans with a shroud, not sure what's up with Travis' unit. Interested to learn what the engine builder finds.

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8 minutes ago, Travis said:

Has anyone heard of a blocked muffler causing a car to over heat?


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blocked Cat on My XF once made it run warmer, but it was GUTLESS mostly.. would barely do 60kmh (fairly blocked but obviously not fully)
i think you'd see other symptoms ?

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No...

but apparently Dayco have substituted their DT66A thermostats, for some cheap Chinese thing,

and they have a massive failure rate, at the moment.

 

(was reading a thread on a specific Cleveland FB group)

 

If the Dayco stat doesn't have the part no. 333-180 printed on the side with the temp, it's the new stock chinese junk.

and won't be made correctly.

The Tridon ones are apparently in the same boat.

 

I would still go after the thermostat, personally.

 

I'd order one of those TMeyer thermostats from the USA.

TMeyer Engine Parts, bought the rights to the old Dayco (re-boxed Robert Shaw) thermostats apparently.

 

The Milodon ones from VPW or Eagle Auto Parts, are supposed to be ok?... don't quote me on that.

 

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/high-flo-thermostat/

 

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I didn’t think it would be a blocked muffler, the engine builder said it might be the problem that’s all, the thermostat I got has the writing on the side of it I’m pretty sure, I will check it tomorrow morning,


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So one thing we found when putting the motor back together was the water pump gasket wasn’t right, this is the gasket that came in the kit with all other gaskets IMG_0211.jpg


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The engine builder I went to on the Gold Coast, I got the right gasket and have put it on now, I’m wondering if this has been the problem all along,


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Is that a GMB cast iron pump?

I'm no expert in fluid dynamics... but the impeller looks awfully inefficient - with such a large gap to the sidewalls?

It'd be interesting to bolt that pump up to a sheet of clear perspex, and watch the flow efficiency/cavitation etc.

 

If it were my engine, I'd run a standard flow cast iron water pump, with an original style cast iron impeller - to minimise cavitation.

(if such a beast still exists)

 

Do you have alloy or cast iron heads?

 

edit -

like this one has

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Cleveland-302-351-V8-water-pump-SH-F-C-suit-parts-or-reco/282994080909?hash=item41e3c2fc8d:g:iIkAAOSwuHJbFK12

 

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33 minutes ago, Travis said:

So one thing we found when putting the motor back together was the water pump gasket wasn’t right, this is the gasket that came in the kit with all other gaskets IMG_0211.jpg


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that gasket is on back to front?

 

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Is that a GMB cast iron pump?
I'm no expert in fluid dynamics... but the impeller looks awfully inefficient - with such a large gap to the sidewalls?
It'd be interesting to bolt that pump up to a sheet of clear perspex, and watch the flow efficiency/cavitation etc.
 
If it were my engine, I'd run a standard flow cast iron water pump, with an original style cast iron impeller - to minimise cavitation.
(if such a beast still exists)
 
Do you have alloy or cast iron heads?
 
edit -
like this one has
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Cleveland-302-351-V8-water-pump-SH-F-C-suit-parts-or-reco/282994080909?hash=item41e3c2fc8d:g:iIkAAOSwuHJbFK12
 

I went and got the elderbrock water pump for it, I have ordered the thermostat from that place you said, so just waiting for it to come now, I just have the standard cast heads,


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Far out man you are really having some problems. Hopefully it's sorted out soon and you get to enjoy driving it.

Thanks mate, yes it has been trouble but I think with the new water pump and thermostat and the correct gasket I might have it going ok now, I will test it more tomorrow and let you know how it goes,


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Is that a GMB cast iron pump?
I'm no expert in fluid dynamics... but the impeller looks awfully inefficient - with such a large gap to the sidewalls?
It'd be interesting to bolt that pump up to a sheet of clear perspex, and watch the flow efficiency/cavitation etc.
 
If it were my engine, I'd run a standard flow cast iron water pump, with an original style cast iron impeller - to minimise cavitation.
(if such a beast still exists)
 
Do you have alloy or cast iron heads?
 
edit -
like this one has
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Cleveland-302-351-V8-water-pump-SH-F-C-suit-parts-or-reco/282994080909?hash=item41e3c2fc8d:g:iIkAAOSwuHJbFK12
 

The new elderbock pump make the gmb look like a toy, I will keep you updated on how it goes tomorrow,


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Having put one on recently with my cam swap, I can attest that the gasket doesn't look right when held up to the pump. However no ports were blocked or flanges left open... this one looks even more wrong than standard. Maybe it's meant for a different variant ie: a 351M/400? I hope this fixes your issue.

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I really hope that you can sort out your problem by changing the water pump & gasket mate. I get frustrated by seeing things put on an engine that is obviously incorrect, it could cost the customer a tonne of money if the engine builder gets it wrong but it still happens from time to time. It would be like fitting 12slot mags on a Nissan skyline, obviously wrong so why bother bolting it up

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No...
but apparently Dayco have substituted their DT66A thermostats, for some cheap Chinese thing,
and they have a massive failure rate, at the moment.
 
(was reading a thread on a specific Cleveland FB group)
 
If the Dayco stat doesn't have the part no. 333-180 printed on the side with the temp, it's the new stock chinese junk.
and won't be made correctly.
The Tridon ones are apparently in the same boat.
 
I would still go after the thermostat, personally.
 
I'd order one of those TMeyer thermostats from the USA.
TMeyer Engine Parts, bought the rights to the old Dayco (re-boxed Robert Shaw) thermostats apparently.
 
The Milodon ones from VPW or Eagle Auto Parts, are supposed to be ok?... don't quote me on that.
 
https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/high-flo-thermostat/
 
image.thumb.png.7eea79d635caa278393b022ad1814dad.png
 
image.png.8a19b6c5e1edb5fb746e8389f2ed903b.png
 
image.thumb.png.917532a7056ecc970f145ac17cbcf442.png
 
image.png.4f42c67a54a1e120536fe6269b488f3e.png

I think I got a cheap Chinese one because I don’t think the thermostat I got is working properly, I have ordered one from the company you put here tho, the car ran ok today, seems to be ok around town driving, I haven’t gone to far tho, it doesn’t like hwy driving tho it just keeps getting hotter and hotter, hopefully that new thermostat comes soon, I ordered the bypass plate with it, do you think I should swap it at the same time?


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Only if it needs a new bypass plate...

If the TMeyer thermostat works properly with the original plate in there, I'd leave it, tbh.

 

edit -

whats the cheap chinese thermostat doing (or not doing)?

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Only if it needs a new bypass plate...
If the TMeyer thermostat works properly with the original plate in there, I'd leave it, tbh.
 
edit -
whats the cheap chinese thermostat doing (or not doing)?

After I drive it i can put my hand on one side of the radiator and its getting close to being warm, where the other side is to hot to touch,red devil radiators said that is a thermostat problem,


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I can see their point. If the bypass is not being blocked sufficiently, the flow will tend toward that instead of going off to the radiator. Then, with minimal flow through the rad, the temperature coming out will be much lower than going in because the time allowed for it to cool is longer.

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