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Travis

Temperature

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So I got back from the radiator shop and it’s not blocked at all, so after trying everything I can I’m going to have to pull the motor out and take it back to the engine builder, thanks everyone for your help,


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9 hours ago, Travis said:


I tried the one you said to, so unless you told me the wrong one to try yes I have


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The Dayco DT66A?

Got pics of the one they gave you?

 

Is the engine running hot at idle, or only whilst driving along?

Or both?

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Just wondering, my old motor didn’t have enough vacuum to run my brakes very well for who knows the reason why, so I had a vacuum pump hooked up so I had brakes, now that this new motor does have that same problem but I’m still using the vacuum pump for my brakes, could to much vacuum not getting used cause it to heat up?


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3 hours ago, Travis said:

Sorry I ment the new motor doesn’t have the same problem


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I doubt an abundance of manifold vacuum at closed throttle, will cause an engine overheat condition.

 

Is the engine running hot at idle, OR only whilst driving along?

Or both?

 

Did you take a pic of the new thermostat yet?

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Big cams cause loss of vacuum, which is why the XY GT's etc ran a vacuum tank.  Could be the wrong bore size in the m/cyl or wheel cylinders, or a split in the brake booster diaphragm, (if you actually have one).  Do you have the big vacuum hose from the booster running directly to the manifold?  Is it vacuum hose, (not heater hose)? 11/32" from memory,...... but, don't trust anything I say at 2:30 in the morning. 😴

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Just wondering, my old motor didn’t have enough vacuum to run my brakes very well for who knows the reason why, so I had a vacuum pump hooked up so I had brakes, now that this new motor does have that same problem but I’m still using the vacuum pump for my brakes, could to much vacuum not getting used cause it to heat up?


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It would make no difference. The higher vacuum actually indicates that the new motor is running more efficiently.

The reasons why the last motor had insufficient vacuum would be a lumpy cam, or it was so worn out that it couldn't pull enough.

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I doubt an abundance of manifold vacuum at closed throttle, will cause an engine overheat condition.
 
Is the engine running hot at idle, OR only whilst driving along?
Or both?
 
Did you take a pic of the new thermostat yet?

It runs hot at both, just gets there slower at idle,this is what the thermostat Igor looks like83f52e8f4ddaf18e94c07c385ba97a02.jpg


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Yeah, I saw the listing pic the other day.
I meant lets see a pic of the actual thermostat they sent you.
 
Is the engine running hot at idle, OR only whilst driving along?
Or both?
 

I don’t have a photo of it at the moment, the motor is back at the engine builder, it ran hot at idle and driving, it just got hot faster when driving and it wouldn’t stop going up, and nothing would stop it,


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2 hours ago, Travis said:


I don’t have a photo of it at the moment, the motor is back at the engine builder, it ran hot at idle and driving, it just got hot faster when driving and it wouldn’t stop going up, and nothing would stop it,


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Maybe old mate DID get the head gasket around the wrong way?

 

Or a combination of everything...

Wrong thermostat, timing up the creek, etc etc?

 

Getting hot at idle, indicates coolant is not circulating,

and/or no airflow through the radiator to cool the coolant.

 

Keep us posted! :)

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If you get a new radiator I’d go for the XF copper and brass, the wider one designed for air conditioning/tow pack.

I have one with my V8 XD and one in the XF Ghia, I live in Alice Springs where I can drive in 40 plus degrees without any issue.

The XF still has the belt fan and even with air conditioning on it will sit and idle all day long without an issue.

My just 2 cents.

They probably would go that great on a burnout pad but my cars will never see that anyway.


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If you get a new radiator I’d go for the XF copper and brass, the wider one designed for air conditioning/tow pack.

I have one with my V8 XD and one in the XF Ghia, I live in Alice Springs where I can drive in 40 plus degrees without any issue.

The XF still has the belt fan and even with air conditioning on it will sit and idle all day long without an issue.

My just 2 cents.

They probably would go that great on a burnout pad but my cars will never see that anyway.


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Thank you, once I get the motor back I might have to get a new one just to try it


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eBay alloy ones are pretty ok, although fitment can be hit and miss. Mine had a wicked warp one end to the other, but I think it was a pretty isolated case. Best off going for the welded tank ones as they seem to be more consistent in quality.

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4 hours ago, Travis said:

If the next step is to get a new radiator, what would you all recommend?


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tripple core wide copper one should be fine.. providing the rest of the system is good.
the alloy ones are said to be good, however i haven't owned one.

1 hour ago, Travis said:

Quick question for everyone, my block has been bored out to 30tho, has anyone ever heard of thin walls causing over heating problems?


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BGDAVs 351 is 60thou over bored. was fine.. most builders like to stick to 30 though as a max, not sure that's for cooling or other reasons though

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