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Travis

Temperature

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Which thermostat did you use @Travis?

 

Alot of the aftermarket stat's, are advertised as being suitable for a clevo,

but in actual fact, they're not.

 

Many thermostats are not the correct dimensions, to correctly block off that bypass passage in the lower brass plate.

 

If that brass plate is not blocked fully when the thermostat opens, then coolant will bypass the radiator,

making the Clevo run hot.

 

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/high-flo-thermostat/

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Ok so I put a high flow thermostat in that red devil radiators told me to use, i took the car for a drive and tried to keep the car moving without to many traffic lights, after 26min the car was at 90 degrees, I left it running in the driveway for a few minutes and it didn’t go over 91, so it’s a big improvement, I will take it for a longer drive tomorrow and see if it keeps going up or not


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Here's my 2 cents :D

  • As @everyone has stated, get the timing right, a retarded timing can heat up a engine pretty quick. 
  • Make sure your AF ratio / mixtures are right, leaner mixture means more oxygen in cylinders = hotter burn = hotter engine temps -- Try fatten it up a little see if it cools down. 
  • Make sure all air pockets are out of the block, It can take a fair while idling without a cap to burp all the air out. Fill from the highest point in the cooling system as possible.
  • Maybe some crap has blocked the radiator. Are they the same radiator hoses as before the build/swap? Were they clean or any chance you may have dislodged some crusties from the hoses when removing fitting em back?
  • Has the idle speed changed much between engines? Same waterpump/crank pulleys?
  • What fans are you running? sounds like they are electric, when do you have them coming on?

I may be wrong, if head gasket was incorrect you'd see more extensive heat issues?

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So the car won’t stay cool today, I think I have tried everything, I have an msd dizzy and it’s at 10 degrees advanced, I have the high flow thermostat and a different water pump, I had the radiator flushed out and have the Thermo fans with full shroud and I put an extra fan on the other side just to try and blow more air through, other then replacing the radiator which I think I will do, I don’t know what to do now,


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Look closer at the thermostat first.

 

The bypass foot, must be the correct length to block that passage.

Alot of the aftermarket stats are not correct.

 

Show us a part no. of the thermostat you used.

 

Was the radiator physically pulled apart and the cores rodded out?

(ie, end tank un-soldered and removed?)

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Look closer at the thermostat first.
 
The bypass foot, must be the correct length to block that passage.
Alot of the aftermarket stats are not correct.
 
Show us a part no. of the thermostat you used.
 
Was the radiator physically pulled apart and the cores rodded out?
(ie, end tank un-soldered and removed?)

No they just blew it out, I can ask them to cut it open and clean it,8908b469b9833b7d057aca0a85a36355.jpg


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1 hour ago, Travis said:


No they just blew it out, I can ask them to cut it open and clean it,8908b469b9833b7d057aca0a85a36355.jpg


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This is the one I was going to order. Where is the best place to get good parts? Ebay is full of Fuelmizer and Tridon and Im not really keen on both.

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On 3/7/2019 at 2:56 PM, Travis said:


Is there a way to check if the gasket is on wrong without pulling the heads off?


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Yes you can . If you look at a gasket , the front and rear corners are different. The front corner is more square , you square see that  square bit exposed . The rear corner tapers off 

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I can’t offer any advice than what has been said, however I had an alloy radiator in my XD when I first got it and the temps were all over place and that was in NZ where air temps were in the high teens low twenties.

I got some advice from an old radiator guy and he said I needed a copper/brass original style, so I ended up with a recondition XF radiator that was for a tow pack or factory air conditioning (100mm wider than std XD)...

Never had an over heating issue at all, I don’t run a shroud and have a 16 single thermo fan. I drive the XD in 40 plus degree temps and it’s mint.


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I am going to try a different radiator and see if that helps, when I ran the car with no thermostat it made no difference at all, could this lead to being more of an engine problem?


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Those Aussie Desert coolers can be a triple pass style, meaning each end tank has a baffle 1/3 and 2/3 the way along respectively to force the coolant down, up and down again, this gives the triple pass function.. If one of those baffles falls out, the triple flow becomes less than one pass at best, that's if a baffle hasn't blocked something important in there.

I suppose one way of telling if a baffle hasn't gone is to check the temp at certain points on the radiator core. When the engine gets hot, splash a bit of water on various parts of the core and see if they steam up or not. Even better, get hold of a laser thermometer then you'll know instantly.

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Those Aussie Desert coolers can be a triple pass style, meaning each end tank has a baffle 1/3 and 2/3 the way along respectively to force the coolant down, up and down again, this gives the triple pass function.. If one of those baffles falls out, the triple flow becomes less than one pass at best, that's if a baffle hasn't blocked something important in there.

I suppose one way of telling if a baffle hasn't gone is to check the temp at certain points on the radiator core. When the engine gets hot, splash a bit of water on various parts of the core and see if they steam up or not. Even better, get hold of a laser thermometer then you'll know instantly.

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I have the radiator out of the car now so will take it to the shop and get them to cut it open and check it, even tho it’s only bored 20tho im wondering if I’m unlucky and have a block with the walls that are to thin


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, even tho it’s only bored 20tho im wondering if I’m unlucky and have a block with the walls that are to thin

 

 

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I don't think it makes that much difference, especially when just idling.

 

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10 hours ago, Travis said:


No they just blew it out, I can ask them to cut it open and clean it,8908b469b9833b7d057aca0a85a36355.jpg


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Mate, that thermostat is totally wrong for a Cleveland V8.

 

Looking at the Tridon specs - it does not have a bypass/block-off foot.

Without the foot, it will make a Clevo run HOT.

 

Yes, I'd also get the radiator opened up and sussed out internally - if it's a copper/brass tank sort.

They prolly can't open up an Ally radiator very easily.

BUT

get the correct thermostat, and try that first.

 

Tridon TT2023 or Dayco DT66A/333-180 Thermostats - should both have the Clevo foot.

Post up a pic, when you get one.

 

Edit -

running no thermostat in a Clevo, will ALSO make it run hot, cause there is nothing to block the radiator bypass port.

 

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Mate, that thermostat is totally wrong for a Cleveland V8.
 
Looking at the Tridon specs - it does not have a bypass/block-off foot.
Without the foot, it will make a Clevo run HOT.
 
Yes, I'd also get the radiator opened up and sussed out internally - if it's a copper/brass tank sort.
They prolly can't open up an Ally radiator very easily.
BUT
get the correct thermostat, and try that first.
 
Tridon TT2023 or Dayco DT66A/333-180 Thermostats - should both have the Clevo foot.
Post up a pic, when you get one.
 
Edit -
running no thermostat in a Clevo, will ALSO make it run hot, cause there is nothing to block the radiator bypass port.
 

So I have just ordered the dayco dt66a and hopefully it comes on Thursday, I will try this thermostat and get the radiator opened and checked, but if none of this helps I feel like it has to be something in the engine,


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Mate, that thermostat is totally wrong for a Cleveland V8.
 
Looking at the Tridon specs - it does not have a bypass/block-off foot.
Without the foot, it will make a Clevo run HOT.
 
Yes, I'd also get the radiator opened up and sussed out internally - if it's a copper/brass tank sort.
They prolly can't open up an Ally radiator very easily.
BUT
get the correct thermostat, and try that first.
 
Tridon TT2023 or Dayco DT66A/333-180 Thermostats - should both have the Clevo foot.
Post up a pic, when you get one.
 
Edit -
running no thermostat in a Clevo, will ALSO make it run hot, cause there is nothing to block the radiator bypass port.
 
Yep, the clevo's cooling system is unique in that it requires circulation through the system when cold (due to the low position of the thermostat). Most systems just dead-head the flow and rely on the fact that the thermostat is at the highest point in the engine (ie inlet manifold on a Windsor). The clevo's heads are actually higher than the thermostat so the hottest point will be there if there is no flow. If there was no bypass, the heat would take too long to reach the thermostat to open it.

It needs that "foot" or plug (which moves with the thermostat) to allow coolant to bypass back into the water pump when cold, but then plug that bypass when the engine is warm, sendng coolant only through the radiator.

If you don't have that plug on the base of the thermostat, there is only a percentage of coolant getting to the radiator, the rest is just doing laps around your engine.

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Also keep in mind, that Clevo's do not seem to like Twin Thermo-fans.

 

To keep a Clevo adequately cool at idle/low speeds, you must run either the factory engine fan,

or a big single thermo fan, in the center of the radiator.

 

Start with that thermostat though. :)

Make sure they send you the correct one in the packet!

 

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7 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

Also keep in mind, that Clevo's do not seem to like Twin Thermo-fans.

 

To keep a Clevo adequately cool at idle/low speeds, you must run either the factory engine fan,

or a big single thermo fan, in the center of the radiator.

BGDAV's 351 had twin EF thermos and has 302 heads and is 60thou up.. didn't have issues on hot days. 

 

more likely to be water flow issues, My 351 had a flex fan on the engine and a 2 core XF radiator back in the day, coped until i got stuck in traffic on 40deg day with air con on.. needed a tripple core radiator ideally.

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Fans MUST have a shroud, does yours have the whole radiator blocked off, with 2 big holes for the fans.?
 
 

Yes it does have full shroud, I’m really hoping someone is blocking up the radiator


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Fans MUST have a shroud, does yours have the whole radiator blocked off, with 2 big holes for the fans.?
 
 
Should, yes, Must, no. XD - XF didn't have a shroud factory unless they had AC and/or tow pack with the big radiator.

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So just to update everyone, I have just received the new dayco thermostat, so once I get the radiator back from being cut open and checked I will go put them back in, I guess my next question is will I need a different restrictor plate that is under the thermostat or is the standard one that is in it ok?


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