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Travis

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i heard about the Bennett cooling system about 25yrs ago when i had My 351 clevo., just remembered it.

 

you'll need to do your own reading, see if it can give you any tips but My mechanic at the time had it on his LTD he used to tow tandem trailer with cars and also a double horse float with it.

https://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversions-rebuilds-project-cars/22048-john-bennett-water-cooling-system-7.html

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What would you use as a restriction in the top hose?


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There are coolant filters available that go inline in the top hose, which should provide a moderate amount of restriction and also provide a handy crap catcher that's easy to remove and clean.
There was Australian company that ran this test vic based I think. They bolted a Cleveland water pump to a clear peice of Perspex  glass on a cooling system jig of some sort.  you had full view of what was going on behind the water pump they spun it at low rpm and then the took it up to mid to high rpm's and that is where it was having major issues. So there is already a solution out there, if this is your problem! I just can not remember the company name. I would call someone like pavtek or dandy engines ect 
I remember either a photo or video of this on some kind of V8 water pump, could've been a clevo, dunno. The amount of cavitation was quite alarming, starting at as little as 3000 rpm. Looked like the inside of a blender... One big messy vortex of doom

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On ‎4‎/‎24‎/‎2019 at 7:11 AM, scottly said:

I have heard of guys having problems with the water pump spinning to fast, by increasing the coolant flow it does not allow enough time for It to cool when passing through the radiator. 

 

i think the fix was a bigger water pump pulley maybe a chev one from memory?  Or this could just be a old school thing to do that never actually fixed the problem, I'm only going off what others have done 

 

Water pumps can be a cause of the overheating, Some of the cheaper ones don't work well just creating cavitation and air bubbles, best fix it to get a electric water pump which controls the flow, we used these on the old 1948 Bentleys for weddings and are the best thing ever.

 

My old Clevo used to over heat with a cheap water pump, I then upgraded to a QCP or something brand which had the Wheel instead of the fan blade type and that along with Rad clean fixed my issues. could sit in traffic on a 38deg day and while it got warm it never overheated.

 

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Hi all

my 2 cents worth here on this topic. i had my 351 running hot and found a range of things that i was doing wrong. first up car involved in kangaroo hit which required new Radiator and after i got it back the problems started.

1. the arsehole beater put 2nd hand radiater in car (3core) but did not get it cleaned. i believed it was new as it had been painted and refused to believe this was the problem but it was a huge part of thee problem

2. i cut the guts out of thermostat as i felt it wasn't needed in qld (my first clevo and a lack of knowledge)

3. i installed a hi flow alloy water pump.

4. i was failing to tune the engine correctly. i was setting timing at 6 to 8 degrees BTDC at 600 rpm. with auto box when in gear revs drop to 400rpm or a tad less. i now run idle at 850rpm.

5. i fitted BA thermo fans with a davies craig digital controller

 

after all that my clevo will run qtr on temp gauge cruising up and down main st in airlie beach to check out the back packer chicks all day long no temp woes.

Finally regards the thermo fans 

With steel blade fans at 850 rpm (idle) i used an anemometer to measure airflow and got 120 mts per minute. after fitting thermos now getting 240 mts per minute airflow through radiator. to my mind Thermos are a no brainer they work. my temp gauge is under 90d all the time. i can leave sit at idle all day long no temp problems.

 

I am also running MSD atomic Throttle Body fuel injection with controlled timing as well as a MSD 6AL ignition box. this runs sweetly when you get it sorted.

 

Hope ol mate sorted his and maybe my words are of some help

 

Lindsay

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