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Travis

Temperature

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So I have just put my new 351 in my car, it has been bored 20tho, I have the thermostat opening at 90, and the temp seems to sit around 100 degrees, is this normal? I have a big Aussie desert coolers radiator with 2fans, the 302 I had before this never went over 90degrees,

 

 

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Couple of things you can check........

Bottom rad hose collapsing when you rev.??

Ignition timing??

Was there a brass orifice plate under the Thermostat??

Fans blowing the right way??

 

 

You can swap out the Thermostat for a colder one. Clevos can run quite warm, depending on how thick the cylinder walls are, water pump condition, fan belt slipping etc, etc.

If it's just rebuilt and tight, it will run warmer until it frees up a bit. The twin fans should be plenty.

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Apart from the crappy radiator, is the thermostat actually working, do you have the resrictor plate under the thermostat, what kind of water pump are you using, the ones with individual blades can have cavitation issues, are the fans fully shrouded, and are your head gaskets on the right way, although it doesn’t sound bad enough for that, the heads would be getting very hot.

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Couple of things you can check........
Bottom rad hose collapsing when you rev.??
Ignition timing??
Was there a brass orifice plate under the Thermostat??
Fans blowing the right way??
 
 
You can swap out the Thermostat for a colder one. Clevos can run quite warm, depending on how thick the cylinder walls are, water pump condition, fan belt slipping etc, etc.
If it's just rebuilt and tight, it will run warmer until it frees up a bit. The twin fans should be plenty.

c1b47fe5a85b5c98405f78e609c97889.jpg is this the plate under the thermostat you are talking about?



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No.!    Never........

 

Just asking. Some people rip them out when cleaning out the block, acid dipping, etc.....  It's required for distribution of the coolant to the right areas.

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I have put a thermostat in the opens at 71 and it got to 100 faster then before, timing is set at 14 at the moment, not sure what else to do


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Timing should be around 6-8 degrees ?

Would being at 14 make it go up to 100 in 15min? Also could the head gaskit be on the wrong way and cause this?


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14 might be OK at idle but will be too much at cruise/load (if running the stock Bosch dizzy and curve)

I thought the head gasket thing only caused hot spots on particular cylinders, not overheating the entire engine. Might well be wrong about that one.

How new is your balancer? The outer ring can slip over time and give you an incorrect timing mark.

How about you just advance it to where the engine seems smoothest, has the highest idle, and highest vacuum reading? That way, you know it's not a retarded ignition causing the hot running. Then drop the idle speed and adjust mixture to suit. See if that makes a difference.

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14 might be OK at idle but will be too much at cruise/load (if running the stock Bosch dizzy and curve)

I thought the head gasket thing only caused hot spots on particular cylinders, not overheating the entire engine. Might well be wrong about that one.

How new is your balancer? The outer ring can slip over time and give you an incorrect timing mark.

How about you just advance it to where the engine seems smoothest, has the highest idle, and highest vacuum reading? That way, you know it's not a retarded ignition causing the hot running. Then drop the idle speed and adjust mixture to suit. See if that makes a difference.

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Is there a way to check if the gasket is on wrong without pulling the heads off?


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Is there a way to check if the gasket is on wrong without pulling the heads off?


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If you used Fel-Pro, one would be put on "upside down" ie: the writing will face the opposite way to the other side. I think from memory, the passenger side faced down. No there isn't a way to see other than popping the heads. Although you could get away with doing just the passenger side first because this sounds like the one to get wrong.

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I only mentioned the head gasket because it is an easy mistake to make, it blocks the water gallery where the water passes from the head to the block at the front from memory, but it makes the motor run quite hot, so that would be the last thing I’d check

and if it’s only one, only the head affected would be hotter.

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Ok so I put a thermometer that can like to my phone in the top radiator hose and took the car for a drive, while moving it sat between 92-95, so it was trying to keep cool, when just sitting in the driveway it sat at 97 and didn’t seem to go any higher, I only left it sitting for a few min tho, so I know at the temp gauge sender it will be hotter but it did show that the temp would go up and down, so it was trying to cool, I’m starting to wonder if it is the radiator even tho it’s only about a year old, what do you all think? I’m really lost for ideas at the moment


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See my first comment.

Haha I know, but I just can’t get past that the radiator was working perfectly 6weeks ago behind a 302, all I have done is changed to the 351


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A tired old 302 to a nice tight 351 with a bit of core shift might just be enough.

it doesn’t sound like it’s over heating, just running hotter.

some people love the Aussie desert coolers, the few times I’ve had personal experience with them, I’m not a fan.

easy to swap out a radiator to find out if it is the issue.

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Yes to all, maybe I need a third fan on the other side of the radiator pushing the air in,I’m hoping it just runs hot and will cool down once it’s run in a bit, if not I have no idea,


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I ran a 6 cyl XF rad on my 351 for years, no issues. Easy to fit, cheap to buy.  

 

Swap it out, may have been alright in the 302, but needs a little more cooling for the 351. Just had a thought........ you get all the air out when you filled her up?

Run the engine until it's warm, take off cap (slowly.!) and see what the level is. Top her up with coolant while it's idling, with the thermostat open so the block fills up completely.

 

 

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