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ando76

OGUN - the clevo

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that's SNAPPY!  love it! 

i saw it on your facebook feed and you had a headphone warning up.. i read that as..don't watch it on the phone, get the headphones! :)

 

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Put the inner springs in after camshaft run in.  OGUN has had a bit of an update in the  ignition department and a 1 gauge and o2 sensor and gauge. 

 

Couldn't get on the dyno for a bit so put a base line tune into it and gave it a quick test hit to monitor systems and see if any issues arose. Happy to report all went well, although the shifter needs a position indicator. Thank god for rev limiters and isky valve springs.  

 

Enjoy the vid.  Dyno soon. 

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I drove it on the road on Saturday. It has old McCreary Dirt (flat track) bias ply tyres on the back.  Cool as f..k but it gets seriously squirrelly when the stall hits. 

 

Dyno is happening next week. It feels strong, the big stall should rob some numbers on the dyno but I'm keen to see what it rolls up. 

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OGUN did hit the dyno on Saturday, but sadly it appears the convertor is junk. Was fine in the shed skid but as soon as real load was put on it, it went south. 

 

Praying we can get a convetor in time for Northern Nats on the 3rd, 4th & 5th May. The tune is close enough and with the in-car afr gauge running the same as the dyno gauge - I'm happy to run it and log everything and tune at the track. 

 

I love modified cars.......

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It will have to be a well-built converter to handle pushing that big lump of iron quickly... Hope he's running a decent cooler

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

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Sadly I have to admit defeat. The convertor/flexplate in the truck is the old ball c6/c10 - 11.5 bolt circle. No one has a convertor on the shelf to suit the application. 

 

I could change to the 10.5 bolt circle and get an off the shelf convertor to do the job but then the new flexplate will have to be balanced, it could cause starter issues, and I'm still not convinced that the box isn't damaged. 

 

I've since found out the current convertor is a re-use after the box had an issue and it wasn't cleaned out. I suspect that there could be crap thru the the rebuilt box, new trans cooler etc etc.  

 

The call has been made.  I'm going to park it until I can confirm the gear box condition, get a suitable convertor built and re-dyno him. Too much risk in just sending it. Others would, but not me. Too much time and money at risk, for zero reward. There is another show a month later. We will aim for that. 

 

 

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On a positive note I got it to actually steer. Have a look at the before and after alignment figures.

Many neglect this most basic of things, but every car needs to have the alignment correct for the application. cac169197aa40a1f715e1fa3b604e8d9.jpg


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how did the king pin angle change to get better castor?

 

can see the toe out for doing the burnies, and the neg camber i wouldn't have thought possible on king pins? what suspension is under it?

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how did the king pin angle change to get better castor?

 

can see the toe out for doing the burnies, and the neg camber i wouldn't have thought possible on king pins? what suspension is under it?

 

If it's a beam axle, they can induce a bit of neg camber by bending the axle in a giant press. Castor is done via wedges shoved in between the leaf springs and the axle. Sort of like a tapered lowering block. This is how all heavy vehicles are aligned.

 

KPI is changed in proportion to the amount of camber change, seeing as the whole lot moves when you bend the axle. Castor is not affected by KPI or camber changes on a beam axle, but does somewhat affect the steering self-centering as would a castor adjustment.

 

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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It has a Mitsubishi l300 front end welded on. Cortina rack with lengthened rack ends. Ken did it all in the bush with a tape and a welder. 
 
She definitely steers way way better now. 
I understand that the L300 chassis is often used in hotrod builds. Is that because it's a compact front end and can cope with a low ride height?

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

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