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CRU571XR8

XE Gauge Cluster

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Hey all rewiring my 84 esp was efi now clevo.

Have replaced complete loom and dash.

Have nutted out most of it but having troubles with my temp and oil gauge when i go to reds on ignition they go straight too full. Both senders are new

Any ideas to point me in the right direction seems like I have resistance issue.

Tia

 

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does it do the same when you unplug the senders?

they will be no different EFI to clevo so not sure what you've actually done(hidden wiring?) 

if they still go to full unplugged, they must be shorting out somewhere is my guess

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does it do the same when you unplug the senders?
they will be no different EFI to clevo so not sure what you've actually done(hidden wiring?) 
if they still go to full unplugged, they must be shorting out somewhere is my guess
Yes unplugged today and the same thing also now since I hooked up the rear harness fuel goes to full as well.
Std harness just cleaned up only extended a few wires and shortend some.


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1 hour ago, CRU571XR8 said:

Yes unplugged today and the same thing also now since I hooked up the rear harness fuel goes to full as well.
Std harness just cleaned up only extended a few wires and shortend some.


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you have no issues with the senders, somethings earthing somewhere i suspect. .. might need to unwrap the wires and take a look?  

unless you are missing an earth wire, i cant remember what issue i had back in the day

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you have no issues with the senders, somethings earthing somewhere i suspect. .. might need to unwrap the wires and take a look?  
unless you are missing an earth wire, i cant remember what issue i had back in the day
Cheers mate thanks for the help I sorted the temp gauge I plugged the elec choke onto temp and temp onto choke lol.
I think I've sorted the fuel gauge I think it needs a earth. And as for oil I have no continuity between cluster and sender. Will look into that tomorrow.


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they are fairly simple cars, 

i did a 351 conversion to My XD and XE, the XD wires unwrapped just plugged in to the V8 plugs other than the air con wire needed to be longer.

the XE was EFI, and i just bought an engine bay loom from a carby one and plugged it in under the dash.. simples(also 6 cyl, repeated the XD step, extending one wire)

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they are fairly simple cars, 
i did a 351 conversion to My XD and XE, the XD wires unwrapped just plugged in to the V8 plugs other than the air con wire needed to be longer.
the XE was EFI, and i just bought an engine bay loom from a carby one and plugged it in under the dash.. simples(also 6 cyl, repeated the XD step, extending one wire)
Yeah I know there simple cars but when been apart for over 6 years and and pulling bits from other cars to build 1 car it's all plug and play. I've sorted everything but the oil gauge I've disconnected it from every where including the instrument panel and it still goes to full. I have plugged in another dash same thing.
So what wire other than the white and pink stripe would cause oil pressure guage to do this any ideas.
Cheers

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5 hours ago, CRU571XR8 said:

Yeah I know there simple cars but when been apart for over 6 years and and pulling bits from other cars to build 1 car it's all plug and play. I've sorted everything but the oil gauge I've disconnected it from every where including the instrument panel and it still goes to full. I have plugged in another dash same thing.
So what wire other than the white and pink stripe would cause oil pressure guage to do this any ideas.
Cheers

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i cant' think of anything.. i would have thought that wire runs from the sender straight to the cluster with nothing tapping into it. 

i wonder if the cluster earth is bad, whether that would be a side affect, i doubt it though

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Just keep in mind Xd Xe have oil senders. And some dash looms have less wires(budget/basic loom)

have done many dash changes, instrument panel with no issues only ever had one loom that did’t have all the loom wires.

Do a resistance check from the from the sender to the  to dash plug. 

With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v). Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)

 

                           

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1 hour ago, dvfalcon said:

 

With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v). Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)

 

i can't work out what you mean there above.

 

but you reminded me that, if it had an oil switch instead of the sender unit (povo pack cluster) and you fitted the s pack/ghia cluster, that goes straight to full from memory.. but wouldn't do it unplugged.

 

i'd be tempted to run a new wire from the oil sender to the cluster and see if it works... if so, the other wire is shorting out somewhere

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deankdx

The oil sender works resistance to ground.the ground is though the body of the sender as resistance changes oil pressure gauge changes. This being the case the wire should run from the sender to the cluster with no interference from supply or earth

 

“””””With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v).””””””””

 

cluster un plugged and. Wire off the oil sender

depending if multi meter or just a test lamp I would check if +12v is being introduced in to the wire, wire is shorted to +12 volt

Multimeter - place the black lead to earth and the red lead on the wire, if you measure 12v the the wire is shorted to +12volt. 

test lamp -  connect the clip on the lead to earth and touch the probe on the wire, if it lights up the wire is shorted to +12v

 

 

“”””””Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)”””””

 

Multimeter - place the red lead to +12v and the black lead to the wire, if you measure voltage the wire it is shorted to the earth.

testlamp - connect the clip on the lead to the wire and and the the probe to +12v, if it lights up the wire is shorted to earth.

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Just now, deankdx said:

perfect! good explanation. 

couldn't get My head around it first up this morning that's for sure.

Hard to explain and to hard on the run to draw and post a picture on the run but as you suggested I would run a new wire and join it at the cluster plug and see how he goes.

 

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The oil gauge requires three connections to function.

 

  • Ground to the body/back nut of the gauge.
  • 12v+ 
  • Sender feed (resisted ground)

 

If the ground to the body/back nut of the oil gauge isn't present, the oil gauge will deflect to full scale.

 

The fuel and temp won't do this.

 

Therefore, you should closely check the cluster main ground feed.  It normally connects to the body in the drivers kick panel area.  It's only held with one screw and can become flaky due to corrosion or loosening.

 

Failing that, check and tighten the small slotted nut at the back of the oil gauge.

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