Jump to content
Splashv8

My Splash V8

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Yeah Splash utes, were essentially the earlier S-pack utes.

S-packs had the Tickford steering wheel, Cruise and A/C, Velour covered door trims, unique cloth seat trim, better radio, etc.

 

All V8's had the LSD I believe?

And also if you had a HD tow pack factory fitted.

 

I'm not sure if Airbag and ABS were part of the S-pack options?

Did they come with the one tonne package  like the Tradesman?  The leaf springs look like the heavy duty ones.

 

I wasn't sure with the Diff Dave as im still learning myself. but I was so bloody happy when I seen it. 

 

Yes I was awaiting confirmation on the tow pack because it has the Hayman reece towbar fitted with what looks like a brake booster fitted opposite the bonnet pull cord under the steering wheel. I can take a quick snap shot in the morning so maybe you can confirm it? Im not 100% sure myself.

 

Dave can you also have a look a few posts back where I ran a diagnostic scan on the engine and trans  with Muzzas tool and come up with 2 error codes in each and shed some light on em?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Yeah Splash utes, were essentially the earlier S-pack utes.

S-packs had the Tickford steering wheel, Cruise and A/C, Velour covered door trims, unique cloth seat trim, better radio, etc.

 

All V8's had the LSD I believe?

And also if you had a HD tow pack factory fitted.

 

I'm not sure if Airbag and ABS were part of the S-pack options?

Did they come with the one tonne package  like the Tradesman?  The leaf springs look like the heavy duty ones.

 

I wasn't sure with the Diff Dave as im still learning myself. but I was so bloody happy when I seen it. 

 

Yes I was awaiting confirmation on the tow pack because it has the Hayman reece towbar fitted with what looks like a brake booster fitted opposite the bonnet pull cord under the steering wheel. I can take a quick snap shot in the morning so maybe you can confirm it? Im not 100% sure myself.

 

Dave can you also have a look a few posts back where I ran a diagnostic scan on the engine and trans  with Muzzas tool and come up with 2 error codes in each and shed some light on em?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Yeah Splash utes, were essentially the earlier S-pack utes.

S-packs had the Tickford steering wheel, Cruise and A/C, Velour covered door trims, unique cloth seat trim, better radio, etc.

 

All V8's had the LSD I believe?

And also if you had a HD tow pack factory fitted.

 

I'm not sure if Airbag and ABS were part of the S-pack options?

Did they come with the one tonne package  like the Tradesman?  The leaf springs look like the heavy duty ones.

 

I wasn't sure with the Diff Dave as im still learning myself. but I was so bloody happy when I seen it. 

 

Yes I was awaiting confirmation on the tow pack because it has the Hayman reece towbar fitted with what looks like a brake booster fitted opposite the bonnet pull cord under the steering wheel. I can take a quick snap shot in the morning so maybe you can confirm it? Im not 100% sure myself.

 

Dave can you also have a look a few posts back where I ran a diagnostic scan on the engine and trans  with Muzzas tool and come up with 2 error codes in each and shed some light on em?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Splashv8 said:

Did they come with the one tonne package  like the Tradesman?  The leaf springs look like the heavy duty ones.

 

I wasn't sure with the Diff Dave as im still learning myself. but I was so bloody happy when I seen it. 

 

Yes I was awaiting confirmation on the tow pack because it has the Hayman reece towbar fitted with what looks like a brake booster fitted opposite the bonnet pull cord under the steering wheel. I can take a quick snap shot in the morning so maybe you can confirm it? Im not 100% sure myself.

 

Dave can you also have a look a few posts back where I ran a diagnostic scan on the engine and trans  with Muzzas tool and come up with 2 error codes in each and shed some light on em?

 

If it has the one tonne package, it will have a proportioning valve fitted to the rear brakes - basically a valve block mounted under the floor, with a spring and short chain, attached to the diff housing.

As the suspension is lowered with weight, more brake fluid allowed to the rear calipers.

Plus it should have over-ride leaf springs.


It may have a trailer electric brake controller fitted?

Hayman reese labelled towbar won't be factory fitted - but it could be dealer fitted?

The factory fitted tow packs were made by Hayman Reese, but labelled FORD.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Splashv8 said:

I ran Muzzas dtc tool and picked up the Following codes

 

Code 116= Engine  Coolant Temp sensor out of Calibration Range.  

Code 172=HEGO The engine is always running Lean.

 

 

I think the code 116 can be solved by changing the Thermostat

and 172 is got to do with ignition/firing?

 

Also I picked up 2 codes when scanning the Transmission:

Code 19=Battery Voltage Input fault (trans ECU could be faulty)  I hope not

Code 27= Shift Lever Position Fault (inhibitor /PRNDL switch)- Faulty wiring, connectors or faulty switch

 

Could someone please enlighten me on these, Im going to research them but would like input. 

 

Code 116 - The CTS could be a faulty sensor?

First put the dash cluster into diagnostic mode (odometer display changes), and see if the coolant temperature digital readout, seems plausible or not.

(lowest temp, is 30degrees C)

And/or carefully unplug the sensor, and see if the thermo-fans go full speed?

Or try doing an ECU/PCM reset first.

 

Changing the thermostat won't cure a dodgy CTS.

Do the dash diagnostic mode thingy first.

 

Code 172 - likely from when you had a massive vacuum leak from that hose.

Clear the codes then re-scan.

 

Code 19 - do an ECU/PCM reset, then re-scan.

 

Code 27 - When you do the KOER test, I believe you need to run the gear shifter through it's range.

The Selector switch fault code may be false.

You can also confirm selector switch operation, in dash cluster diagnostic mode

(one of the odometer display modes, is a digital PRNDL readout)

 

BONUS TIP -

In KOEO diagnostic mode - by moving the selector from N to D and back again multiple times, you can cycle through the various thermofan speeds,

to confirm the x3 relays and x2 fan motors are good.

Both low, one high, both High, are the speeds I think?

This test only works on EL/XH's.

 

EF's do an all on/off thermofan test only.

 

 

Dash Cluster Diagnostic mode -
The diagnostic mode can be entered by using the following method
  • 1) With the ignition key in the off position, press and hold the Odometer reset knob for 10 seconds.
  • 2) whilst holding the button in, switch the ignition to the on position. (Note : It is not necessary to start the car).
  • 3) With the ignition on, press the odometer button 3 times in quick succession.
  • 4) On the third press, hold the odometer button down, until the Seatbelt lamp is no longer illuminated.
  • 5) The Odometer should blank out. After a period of 10 seconds, the display will flash FORD
  • 6) Press the Odometer button again to go to the first Diagnostic mode

    To view the next diagnostic mode, press the Odometer button for about 1 second

    To view the previous diagnostic modes, press and hold the Odometer button for about 2 second

    To Exit the Diagnostic mode, hold the Odometer Button until the Odometer display returns to normal
Diagnostic Codes
 Mode  Top Line Bottom Line
1 Petrol in Litres (No Level Buffering) Petrol Sender Resistance (Unbuffered)
2   Coolant Temperature (Degrees C)
3 Engine RPM Vehicle Speed (KM/H)
4 Oil Pressure (Bar, 1 decimal Point) Battery Voltage (Volts)
5 Instant Fuel Consumption (L/100Km) Instant Fuel Consumption (x 0.1 Litres)
6 Fuel used since Trip Avg L/100 Reset (x 0.1L)
This Value is used to calculate the Trip computer Average Fuel consumption L/100Km
Kms Travelled since Trip Avg L/100 Reset
7 Buffered Fuel Tank Level (In Litres)
Value used for Petrol Gauge
Buffered Fuel Tank Lever Sender Resistance
8   Gear Position (PNRD321)
9 Unknown - 256 Unknown - Varies from 00, 01, 02
10 Unknown - 81 Unknown - 00
11 0000 1100
12 1111 0000
13 0000 0000
14   00
15   00
16   00
17 Illuminates all segments Illuminates all Segments
18 Blank Odometer Screen Blank Odometer Screen

 

 

You can drive around in Cluster diagnostic mode, and change modes on the fly - handy if you're trying to diagnose something...

it doesn't stop the odometer from counting up as normal, behind the scenes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

If it has the one tonne package, it will have a proportioning valve fitted to the rear brakes - basically a valve block mounted under the floor, with a spring and short chain, attached to the diff housing.

As the suspension is lowered with weight, more brake fluid allowed to the rear calipers.

Plus it should have over-ride leaf springs.


It may have a trailer electric brake controller fitted?

Hayman reese labelled towbar won't be factory fitted - but it could be dealer fitted?

The factory fitted tow packs were made by Hayman Reese, but labelled FORD.

 

I think thats exactly what it is.

Also I don't think its Factory fitted which is a shame, but here's the kicker, its all being put in at a later date which really

stripes the value in my eyes.If it was fully optioned from Factory I reckon you could count on 1 hand how many of these were produced. Like dad was saying last night things like A/C back then were a privilege and NOT standard.

pics attached.

https://imgur.com/3IylgqN

 

https://imgur.com/sUqXHzO

 

 

 

Edited by Splashv8
Add another image

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Code 116 - The CTS could be a faulty sensor?

First put the dash cluster into diagnostic mode (odometer display changes), and see if the coolant temperature digital readout, seems plausible or not.

(lowest temp, is 30degrees C)

And/or carefully unplug the sensor, and see if the thermo-fans go full speed?

Or try doing an ECU/PCM reset first.

 

Changing the thermostat won't cure a dodgy CTS.

Do the dash diagnostic mode thingy first.

 

Code 172 - likely from when you had a massive vacuum leak from that hose.

Clear the codes then re-scan.

 

Code 19 - do an ECU/PCM reset, then re-scan.

 

Code 27 - When you do the KOER test, I believe you need to run the gear shifter through it's range.

The Selector switch fault code may be false.

You can also confirm selector switch operation, in dash cluster diagnostic mode

(one of the odometer display modes, is a digital PRNDL readout)

 

BONUS TIP -

In KOEO diagnostic mode - by moving the selector from N to D and back again multiple times, you can cycle through the various thermofan speeds,

to confirm the x3 relays and x2 fan motors are good.

Both low, one high, both High, are the speeds I think?

This test only works on EL/XH's.

 

EF's do an all on/off thermofan test only.

 

 

Dash Cluster Diagnostic mode -
The diagnostic mode can be entered by using the following method
  • 1) With the ignition key in the off position, press and hold the Odometer reset knob for 10 seconds.
  • 2) whilst holding the button in, switch the ignition to the on position. (Note : It is not necessary to start the car).
  • 3) With the ignition on, press the odometer button 3 times in quick succession.
  • 4) On the third press, hold the odometer button down, until the Seatbelt lamp is no longer illuminated.
  • 5) The Odometer should blank out. After a period of 10 seconds, the display will flash FORD
  • 6) Press the Odometer button again to go to the first Diagnostic mode

    To view the next diagnostic mode, press the Odometer button for about 1 second

    To view the previous diagnostic modes, press and hold the Odometer button for about 2 second

    To Exit the Diagnostic mode, hold the Odometer Button until the Odometer display returns to normal
Diagnostic Codes
 Mode  Top Line Bottom Line
1 Petrol in Litres (No Level Buffering) Petrol Sender Resistance (Unbuffered)
2   Coolant Temperature (Degrees C)
3 Engine RPM Vehicle Speed (KM/H)
4 Oil Pressure (Bar, 1 decimal Point) Battery Voltage (Volts)
5 Instant Fuel Consumption (L/100Km) Instant Fuel Consumption (x 0.1 Litres)
6 Fuel used since Trip Avg L/100 Reset (x 0.1L)
This Value is used to calculate the Trip computer Average Fuel consumption L/100Km
Kms Travelled since Trip Avg L/100 Reset
7 Buffered Fuel Tank Level (In Litres)
Value used for Petrol Gauge
Buffered Fuel Tank Lever Sender Resistance
8   Gear Position (PNRD321)
9 Unknown - 256 Unknown - Varies from 00, 01, 02
10 Unknown - 81 Unknown - 00
11 0000 1100
12 1111 0000
13 0000 0000
14   00
15   00
16   00
17 Illuminates all segments Illuminates all Segments
18 Blank Odometer Screen Blank Odometer Screen

 

 

You can drive around in Cluster diagnostic mode, and change modes on the fly - handy if you're trying to diagnose something...

it doesn't stop the odometer from counting up as normal, behind the scenes.

Theres a lot of iGood nformation there to digest which Awesome. I will slowly get through all this over the weekend.

I agree with that 172 code concerning the Vac leak, Also it sounds silly to admit but I may not have had the shift Lever

in N properly and I did not cycle it through Like you said. I would like to attack that again.

 

I was quiet happy That the test came back with those relatively small errors, I guess it can be a lot worst Like a bodgy Eng/Trans

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Splashv8 said:

I think thats exactly what it is.

Also I don't think its Factory fitted which is a shame, but here's the kicker, its all being put in at a later date which really

stripes the value in my eyes.If it was fully optioned from Factory I reckon you could count on 1 hand how many of these were produced. Like dad was saying last night things like A/C back then were a privilege and NOT standard.

pics attached.

https://imgur.com/3IylgqN

 

https://imgur.com/sUqXHzO

 

 

 

 

Yeah, that's an electric brake controller

Very handy to have!

 

The hitch, is the HD 2.3 tonne one.

Again, very useful to have! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Code 116 - The CTS could be a faulty sensor?

First put the dash cluster into diagnostic mode (odometer display changes), and see if the coolant temperature digital readout, seems plausible or not.

(lowest temp, is 30degrees C)

And/or carefully unplug the sensor, and see if the thermo-fans go full speed?

Or try doing an ECU/PCM reset first.

 

Changing the thermostat won't cure a dodgy CTS.

Do the dash diagnostic mode thingy first.

 

Code 172 - likely from when you had a massive vacuum leak from that hose.

Clear the codes then re-scan.

 

Code 19 - do an ECU/PCM reset, then re-scan.

 

Code 27 - When you do the KOER test, I believe you need to run the gear shifter through it's range.

The Selector switch fault code may be false.

You can also confirm selector switch operation, in dash cluster diagnostic mode

(one of the odometer display modes, is a digital PRNDL readout)

 

BONUS TIP -

In KOEO diagnostic mode - by moving the selector from N to D and back again multiple times, you can cycle through the various thermofan speeds,

to confirm the x3 relays and x2 fan motors are good.

Both low, one high, both High, are the speeds I think?

This test only works on EL/XH's.

 

EF's do an all on/off thermofan test only.

 

 

Dash Cluster Diagnostic mode -
The diagnostic mode can be entered by using the following method
  • 1) With the ignition key in the off position, press and hold the Odometer reset knob for 10 seconds.
  • 2) whilst holding the button in, switch the ignition to the on position. (Note : It is not necessary to start the car).
  • 3) With the ignition on, press the odometer button 3 times in quick succession.
  • 4) On the third press, hold the odometer button down, until the Seatbelt lamp is no longer illuminated.
  • 5) The Odometer should blank out. After a period of 10 seconds, the display will flash FORD
  • 6) Press the Odometer button again to go to the first Diagnostic mode

    To view the next diagnostic mode, press the Odometer button for about 1 second

    To view the previous diagnostic modes, press and hold the Odometer button for about 2 second

    To Exit the Diagnostic mode, hold the Odometer Button until the Odometer display returns to normal
Diagnostic Codes
 Mode  Top Line Bottom Line
1 Petrol in Litres (No Level Buffering) Petrol Sender Resistance (Unbuffered)
2   Coolant Temperature (Degrees C)
3 Engine RPM Vehicle Speed (KM/H)
4 Oil Pressure (Bar, 1 decimal Point) Battery Voltage (Volts)
5 Instant Fuel Consumption (L/100Km) Instant Fuel Consumption (x 0.1 Litres)
6 Fuel used since Trip Avg L/100 Reset (x 0.1L)
This Value is used to calculate the Trip computer Average Fuel consumption L/100Km
Kms Travelled since Trip Avg L/100 Reset
7 Buffered Fuel Tank Level (In Litres)
Value used for Petrol Gauge
Buffered Fuel Tank Lever Sender Resistance
8   Gear Position (PNRD321)
9 Unknown - 256 Unknown - Varies from 00, 01, 02
10 Unknown - 81 Unknown - 00
11 0000 1100
12 1111 0000
13 0000 0000
14   00
15   00
16   00
17 Illuminates all segments Illuminates all Segments
18 Blank Odometer Screen Blank Odometer Screen

 

 

You can drive around in Cluster diagnostic mode, and change modes on the fly - handy if you're trying to diagnose something...

it doesn't stop the odometer from counting up as normal, behind the scenes.

didn't even know it had a Diagnostic mode, it read 30 deg Dave but the actual Sensor is shot,Good call, so I have placed an order for a new one along with the Thermostat + gasket+ water pump I already have the 4 hoses. Im going to do it all mate, even the expansion tank. that way I know its done. and I feel better.

 

Happy I got that Diag tool its already paid for itself. another good call Dave.

 

The Dash is very lightly lit I tried to adjust the brightness with the Knob but how do I get it Brighter?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Splashv8 said:

water pump I already have the 4 hoses. Im going to do it all mate, even the expansion tank. that way I know its done. and I feel better.

 

The Dash is very lightly lit I tried to adjust the brightness with the Knob but how do I get it Brighter?

 

The dash brightness can be adjusted by the tiny lever beside the Parkers/Headlight knob.

Some are simply 2 or 3 set levels of brightness at different positions.

Fairmonts (and possibly S-pack utes?) have a variable brightness, by holding the lever in the up or down position (can't remember which).

 

 

If you still have the factory coolant expansion tank, factory (yellow dot) radiator cap and factory water pump on the car, I'd suggest to keep them.

 

Always Test any aftermarket Thermostat, by boiling it - hanging in a pot of water on the stove.

It should start to crack open, at the advertised temp rating (92degrees, etc)

 

Don't be tempted to fit a lower temp stat in the EFI Windsors, or the ECU will make it run rich.

 

The aftermarket coolant expansion tanks, are known to have leakage issues after a while.

 

The factory Motorcraft water pumps, are much better than the aftermarket versions.

There is a fella I know, selling NOS EFI Windsor pumps on ebay for $250 - well worth it IMO, if you're forced to do a water pump.

 

EL/XH factory radiators are Copper core/plastic side tank, and were Aussie made by Natra.

Be wary of ebay cheapies, if you choose to replace it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes the brightness switch breaks off if someone gets a bit ham-fisted with it. Same goes for the headlight knob. I've used a volume knob from Jaycar to replace that, but the brightness switch (if broken off) you could possibly try and flick what's left of it with a small screwdriver.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/10/2019 at 3:40 AM, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

The dash brightness can be adjusted by the tiny lever beside the Parkers/Headlight knob.

Some are simply 2 or 3 set levels of brightness at different positions.

Fairmonts (and possibly S-pack utes?) have a variable brightness, by holding the lever in the up or down position (can't remember which).

 

 

If you still have the factory coolant expansion tank, factory (yellow dot) radiator cap and factory water pump on the car, I'd suggest to keep them.

 

Always Test any aftermarket Thermostat, by boiling it - hanging in a pot of water on the stove.

It should start to crack open, at the advertised temp rating (92degrees, etc)

 

Don't be tempted to fit a lower temp stat in the EFI Windsors, or the ECU will make it run rich.

 

The aftermarket coolant expansion tanks, are known to have leakage issues after a while.

 

The factory Motorcraft water pumps, are much better than the aftermarket versions.

There is a fella I know, selling NOS EFI Windsor pumps on ebay for $250 - well worth it IMO, if you're forced to do a water pump.

 

EL/XH factory radiators are Copper core/plastic side tank, and were Aussie made by Natra.

Be wary of ebay cheapies, if you choose to replace it.

I played around with the Headlight knob and the little lever but to no avail,  it looks like its an Auto electric problem?

Just curious Dave with the W/pump are you saying get it reconditioned because at 200k I would think its best to replace it. Also I ordered a cheap Dayco exp tank because this one looks old and brittle. I was thinking with the ute in General I would like to get another 5 years or 50,000ks out of it and use it as a ute as Im renovating a house, then I have plans to rebuild/spray from top to bottom after all the work has been done.

 

 

On 3/10/2019 at 9:53 AM, gerg said:

Sometimes the brightness switch breaks off if someone gets a bit ham-fisted with it. Same goes for the headlight knob. I've used a volume knob from Jaycar to replace that, but the brightness switch (if broken off) you could possibly try and flick what's left of it with a small screwdriver.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
 

Funny you mention that Gerg, the Plastic Radio knob just snapped this morning while I was blaring the Spice girls :) I tell ya what I want what I really really want.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also I was going to attempt a full Trans flush/drop sump replace pan filter/Gasket is it worth attempting or should I just

take it to the Mechanic who knows what he's doing and pay the $100 and be done with the hassle of it all?

 

**I got that Tridon high flow thermostat that someones posted on another thread suppose to increase flow by 30%

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Funny you mention that Gerg, the Plastic Radio knob just snapped this morning while I was blaring the Spice girls  I tell ya what I want what I really really want.
Lol.... One of those universal knobs with the grub screw works a treat. Only drama is the white dot sits opposite to where you want it. You get used to it.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/8/2019 at 4:01 PM, Splashv8 said:

Thats a very nice looking splash ute. Does it have the Splash decal above the right headlight or similar? 

 

Saw my local Splash XH ute today so had a closer look. No decal on the front (or sides either), just the one on the tailgate. Damn it's in crazy good nick though. Also has what looks like Futura style alloys which actually suit it too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Splashv8 said:

I played around with the Headlight knob and the little lever but to no avail,  it looks like its an Auto electric problem?

 

Just curious Dave with the W/pump are you saying get it reconditioned because at 200k I would think its best to replace it. Also I ordered a cheap Dayco exp tank because this one looks old and brittle. I was thinking with the ute in General I would like to get another 5 years or 50,000ks out of it and use it as a ute as Im renovating a house,

 

Yeah XH's have the lever at the bottom of the headlight knob.

Clicking that lever to the left, should make the interior light come on.

Pushing it to the right (either two definitive positions or push and hold for dimmer) should change the dash and instrument light brightness.

 

I'm saying leave the cooling system completely alone, unless it's running hot or leaking coolant.

Aftermarket stuff hasn't got a patch on factory OEM... even 200,000km factory OEM.

 

By all means flush the block/change the coolant, but I'd leave it alone otherwise.

 

It's also worth more, to still have all the original small parts.

Alternator, Starter, Header tank, Radiator, water pump, spark plug leads, etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, macman said:

 

Saw my local Splash XH ute today so had a closer look. No decal on the front (or sides either), just the one on the tailgate. Damn it's in crazy good nick though. Also has what looks like Futura style alloys which actually suit it too.

Yeah Im a bit confused as there seems to be a few different decal designs and places, I might give Ford head office a buzz and see if they can clarify this.

1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Yeah XH's have the lever at the bottom of the headlight knob.

Clicking that lever to the left, should make the interior light come on.

Pushing it to the right (either two definitive positions or push and hold for dimmer) should change the dash and instrument light brightness.

 

I'm saying leave the cooling system completely alone, unless it's running hot or leaking coolant.

Aftermarket stuff hasn't got a patch on factory OEM... even 200,000km factory OEM.

 

By all means flush the block/change the coolant, but I'd leave it alone otherwise.

 

It's also worth more, to still have all the original small parts.

Alternator, Starter, Header tank, Radiator, water pump, spark plug leads, etc.

I will take a closer look at it tomorrow and see if I can fiddle around with it. I get what you're saying about the Aftermarket stuff its cheap and Nasty for a reason.

 

I also was contemplating adding a stand alone Trans Oil cooler, but the factory one looks ok to me? not sure if a larger one would help cool the ATF better or just trust the Ford Engineers and let it be.

 

I don't want to make ya Sad dave but I did rip off the Motorcraft Leads and OEM plugs and ordered an Alloy Pump. I try and leave the rest alone. I did however purchase an OEM CTS for $55. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I will take a closer look at it tomorrow and see if I can fiddle around with it. I get what you're saying about the Aftermarket stuff its cheap and Nasty for a reason.
 
I also was contemplating adding a stand alone Trans Oil cooler, but the factory one looks ok to me? not sure if a larger one would help cool the ATF better or just trust the Ford Engineers and let it be.
 
I don't want to make ya Sad dave but I did rip off the Motorcraft Leads and OEM plugs and ordered an Alloy Pump. I try and leave the rest alone. I did however purchase an OEM CTS for $55. 
external trans cooler is definitely a good idea, helps the trans live longer, and factory tow pack/police or taxi packs had them as well as a power steering cooler

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Thom said:
10 minutes ago, Splashv8 said:
I will take a closer look at it tomorrow and see if I can fiddle around with it. I get what you're saying about the Aftermarket stuff its cheap and Nasty for a reason.
 
I also was contemplating adding a stand alone Trans Oil cooler, but the factory one looks ok to me? not sure if a larger one would help cool the ATF better or just trust the Ford Engineers and let it be.
 
I don't want to make ya Sad dave but I did rip off the Motorcraft Leads and OEM plugs and ordered an Alloy Pump. I try and leave the rest alone. I did however purchase an OEM CTS for $55. 

external trans cooler is definitely a good idea, helps the trans live longer, and factory tow pack/police or taxi packs had them as well as a power steering cooler

Yeah my thoughts exactly Thom, I guess I need to delve in and do a lot more research on the topic. I am leaning that way as My mechanic said exactly the same thing as you. it doubles the life of the trans as heat is the biggest killer of transmissions. there's a fair bit of room near the Radiator and would fit nicely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeah my thoughts exactly Thom, I guess I need to delve in and do a lot more research on the topic. I am leaning that way as My mechanic said exactly the same thing as you. it doubles the life of the trans as heat is the biggest killer of transmissions. there's a fair bit of room near the Radiator and would fit nicely.
if its still in good nick you want to use the trans cooler in the radiator as well, as it will help the trans get up to operating temp quicker

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
if its still in good nick you want to use the trans cooler in the radiator as well, as it will help the trans get up to operating temp quicker
I like to remove the trans lines myself from radiator as an extra shit load on heat transfer into radiator worries me.

Sent from my MYA-L22 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Probably best, if running both internal and external, to run it through the external first to shed the bulk of the heat then through the radiator one to regulate the temp.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×