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Seamus

Toot Toot, Chugga Chugga, Big Red Car

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9 hours ago, deankdx said:

i don't want anything, but that steering wheel looks like a low km one if it's not toasted. kind of looks the wedgewood blue, not grey though .. hard to tell. 

 

I have a nos Wedgewood Blue steering wheel... :)

 

edit -

the listing says SOLD... maybe @Seamus, bought the whole car?

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There was actually a bit more on it than I expected.

Dammit! I was looking at the Dizzy and carby but ran out of time to grab them . The door cards looked ok but the wrong colour for me and I don't have a lot of space to store too many parts that I may not use.

Along with all my power steering conversion bits, I ended up getting a really clean rust free OSF guard, a centre console (which ironically, looks like it was originally the colour I needed, but has been painted that grey/blue colour Grrrrrrr), the front bumper, head lights and a few other interior bits and pieces, as well as the Starter and Alternator.

Yeah I left the jelly bean mags where they were cos I'm not going for that look, and again don't have the space to have them sitting around till I find a buyer. However, they did look ok and had tyres on them with decent tread (not sure on the age of them though).

I was also considering the front windscreen but again with the time and space restrictions.

All in all, I'm happy with what I got. That front guard means I can still have a crack at the rust repair on my original guard, without the fear of ruining a good part as I now have a spare.
The front bumper is straight, however the black section has gone chalky and dull. Does anyone know can you restore this black section back to shiny? Or would it be a matter of simply sanding it back and painting it with some bumper/plastic specific paint?

Another good point is, I went out there with my Dad, we spent the day together and both had a good day pulling apart a car, and you can't ask for more than that.




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The bumper should restore using one of the many plastic polishes which are on the market.

First give it a good scrub using a general purpose cleaner then use the polish.

 

If you decide to paint it you will need to use a plastic primer and I would use an additive in the paint to make it a little

more flexible. Different manufacturers use different names for it. I use the one from protec its called flex add.

 

Good to hear it was a great day with  your dad.

Some things money cannot buy.

 

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i've always painted XF bumpers because 9 times out of 10 they'd be cracked or gouged and needing filler etc. 

 

i used a plastic prime/flex aid type rattle can with mine and never had issues after. 

 

sounds like a good day out. 

 

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Thanks guys,

He did say he was going to scrap it after I'd finished with it.

I think I will try those treatments.@Carshamus do both those AutoGlym products do the same thing? Or do you use them together?
I think I'll try them on a little section and if it doesn't work, I'll hit it with the paint.



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I've heard that a heat gun can work also?

However I've never personally tried that with XF bumpers.

 

The original unpainted bumper finish, was actually the semi-gloss of the natural plastic, (polyethelene I think?)

the top surface of which has eroded away in the sun - leaving the porous open grain finish, you see on XF bars now.

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I've heard that a heat gun can work also?
However I've never personally tried that with XF bumpers.
 
The original unpainted bumper finish, was actually the semi-gloss of the natural plastic, (polyethelene I think?)
the top surface of which has eroded away in the sun - leaving the porous open grain finish, you see on XF bars now.
That's interesting, so what you're saying is from new they were just polished black plastic?

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10 minutes ago, Seamus said:

That's interesting, so what you're saying is from new they were just polished black plastic?

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Yes the raw plastic parts had a semi-gloss finish -

similar to the smooth gell coat finish, you might find on fibreglass items, fresh out of the mould.

 

Some commercials and taxi's, had an all raw plastic front bar from factory.

Most had a painted middle section

Ghia's and XF series 2 updates, got a painted section at the very top also, I think.


XD-XF Wagon rear bars were always unpainted.

(semi-gloss raw plastic finish when new though)

 

 

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Thanks[mention=244]gerg[/mention]

 

I got a very good OS guard from that wreck.

My NS guard looks ok from the outside but I haven't pulled it off yet so I'll keep this in mind.

 

I have been trawling Gumtree and eBay, and I think I have found pretty much all the major parts I was looking for.

I even found a NOS number plate/reverse light housing (not cheap, but beggars can't be choosers)

 

I'm in the process of applying for a parking permit through the council. This will allow me to park the N15 Pulsar permanently out on the street (where it belongs hahaha).

Then the next thing on my list before getting started on the car, is planning the layout of my garage and building a work bench/shelves etc....

 

I'm just happy to be ticking things off the list. For me it's all about keeping momentum.

 

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Thanks[mention=244]gerg[/mention]

I got a very good OS guard from that wreck.
My NS guard looks ok from the outside but I haven't pulled it off yet so I'll keep this in mind.

I have been trawling Gumtree and eBay, and I think I have found pretty much all the major parts I was looking for.
I even found a NOS number plate/reverse light housing (not cheap, but beggars can't be choosers)

I'm in the process of applying for a parking permit through the council. This will allow me to park three N15 Pulsar permanently out on the street (where it belongs hahaha).
Then the next thing on my list before getting started on the car, is planning the layout of my garage and building a work bench/shelves etc....

I'm just happy to be ticking things off the list. For me it's all about keeping momentum.

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Yep, that's the main thing. As long as you don't have too many distractions to kill your mojo... Story of my life

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Yep, that's the main thing. As long as you don't have too many distractions to kill your mojo... Story of my life

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Yeah, Unfortunately some distractions in life are unavoidable.
I guess the main thing is to manage them and always try to take some time out for yourself, no matter how small. I think it's the only way you can keep doing the things you need to.

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Yeah, Unfortunately some distractions in life are unavoidable.
I guess the main thing is to manage them and always try to take some time out for yourself, no matter how small. I think it's the only way you can keep doing the things you need to.

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Having an understanding partner is the key. Without that, you're forced to choose one or the other.

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Hi guys,

This is a question about setting up my garage but I'll put it here because it sort of makes up part of my build process I guess?

What's people's thoughts on a minimum size for an air compressor for the garage? i.e. Motor size, tank size & flow rate etc.... oh and it has to be 240V.

Cheers


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I have a 17CFM twin piston compressor at home, with an 80ltr tank.
It has a 15amp plug though, and runs on it's own circuit in the garage.
 
Even 17CFM only just keeps up, and sometimes not really.


Wow, ok.

Maybe I can look at having an electrician install a 15amp outlet? What's involved in that? And would it be possible in a unit block?


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30 minutes ago, Seamus said:

 


Wow, ok.

Maybe I can look at having an electrician install a 15amp outlet? What's involved in that? And would it be possible in a unit block?


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Having a 15A or 20A power point is handy not just for the Compressor,

but for welders too. :)

 

It depends where your unit's switchboard is.

 

My garage is separate from the house, and many years ago, I ran a sub-mains cable from the main house switchboard,

out to the garage.

I then installed a small switchboard in the garage itself, with light/power circuits.

 

In my case, 15A outlet is directly below the switchboard, hence was easy to install.

 

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Having a 15A or 20A power point is handy not just for the Compressor,
but for welders too.
 
It depends where your unit's switchboard is.
 
My garage is separate from the house, and many years ago, I ran a sub-mains cable from the main house switchboard,
out to the garage.
I then installed a small switchboard in the garage itself, with light/power circuits.
 
In my case, 15A outlet is directly below the switchboard, hence was easy to install.
 


Hmmmmm, might be too difficult.


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2 hours ago, Seamus said:

This is a question about setting up my garage but I'll put it here because it sort of makes up part of my build process I guess?

 

install a hoist.. get a trans jack.. life goal

 

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install a hoist.. get a trans jack.. life goal
 


Hahaha agree totally, and when I have a house with my own shed, then yes, but definitely not an option for me at the moment.



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First thing you need to determine what capacity you think you might need. Keep in mind, you're not running a commercial shop. If you don't plan on doing any colour or clear painting, there's not much point in getting a massive unit. If you want to do primer and spray putty, the cheap electric domestic spray guns like Ozito and Easysprayer are bloody great for this. I ended up using these on my car at the primer/putty stage because they make less dry overspray.

Many tools that were traditionally air-powered are becoming much more convenient and affordable in battery power. I love my electric rattle gun, and it's only a "shitty" Ozito.

These days, apart from painting my car (for which I borrowed a mate's 12CFM) I only use a tiny 4 CFM compressor for running nail and brad guns. Maybe pump up a tyre now and then. All other power stuff is Ozito battery or mains.

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First thing you need to determine what capacity you think you might need. Keep in mind, you're not running a commercial shop. If you don't plan on doing any colour or clear painting, there's not much point in getting a massive unit. If you want to do primer and spray putty, the cheap electric domestic spray guns like Ozito and Easysprayer are bloody great for this. I ended up using these on my car at the primer/putty stage because they make less dry overspray.

Many tools that were traditionally air-powered are becoming much more convenient and affordable in battery power. I love my electric rattle gun, and it's only a "shitty" Ozito.

These days, apart from painting my car (for which I borrowed a mate's 12CFM) I only use a tiny 4 CFM compressor for running nail and brad guns. Maybe pump up a tyre now and then. All other power stuff is Ozito battery or mains.

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Thanks@gerg

I am aiming to paint colour and mainly have air tools already, however when I stripped those parts off that other XF, the bloke lent me a battery powered rattle gun and I was very impressed, so may look at one of those.

No matter what it looks like, due my location, I'll be limited by 10a mains power so something like a 12 or 13CFM unit may be as big as I can go.

I wonder what would happen if you joined two 10a 12CFM compressors together

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Thanks[mention=244]gerg[/mention]

I am aiming to paint colour and mainly have air tools already, however when I stripped those parts off that other XF, the bloke lent me a battery powered rattle gun and I was very impressed, so may look at one of those.

No matter what it looks like, due my location, I'll be limited by 10a mains power so something like a 12 or 13CFM unit may be as big as I can go.

I wonder what would happen if you joined two 10a 12CFM compressors together

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If it's coming out of a double power point (not off a powerboard), and nothing else is being used on that circuit, should hang in there.

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