FAIRXF 5 Posted December 31, 2018 Hey Guys, Recently I have replaced the push rods in my 250 and had to take out injectors ect.. it started before beginning the process and now it doesn't could it be a fuse? because i've tested the power at injectors and there is no power there. what could cause the injectors to not get power or the engine to not start? Thanks in advance 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted December 31, 2018 did you unplug the ecu box inside the passenger feet panel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted December 31, 2018 1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said: did you unplug the ecu box inside the passenger feet panel No, I haven't Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,231 Posted December 31, 2018 the only thing i can think of is the green and other relay near the brake booster,(green is fuel pump, other is injectors i thought? could be wrong) haven't broken an earth wire or left a plug loose? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted January 1, 2019 11 hours ago, deankdx said: the only thing i can think of is the green and other relay near the brake booster,(green is fuel pump, other is injectors i thought? could be wrong) haven't broken an earth wire or left a plug loose? Haven't got any green relays only a got a grey wehrle relay with fuel written on it a white ford one and a black ford one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted January 1, 2019 Is it low cranking voltage? I’ve heard if the battery is sad that it won’t have enough power to give spark and injector pulse. Best of luck with it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,231 Posted January 1, 2019 that black relay has a wire intercepting it, was it on LPG? might be switched for LPG. did you delete any wiring? 1 Crazy2287 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted January 1, 2019 1 hour ago, deankdx said: that black relay has a wire intercepting it, was it on LPG? might be switched for LPG. did you delete any wiring? It did run on lpg before i had it but we removed some of the lpg involved things except the wiring it ran fine till after taking out the injectors and changing the push rods and putting them back in and it hasnt started since Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 1, 2019 It did run on lpg before i had it but we removed some of the lpg involved things except the wiring it ran fine till after taking out the injectors and changing the push rods and putting them back in and it hasnt started sinceInvestigators want to know why you changed pushrodsSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk 2 FAIRXF and Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted January 1, 2019 43 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said: Investigators want to know why you changed pushrods Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk I changed the pushrods because two were bent 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,231 Posted January 1, 2019 51 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said: Investigators want to know why you changed pushrods Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk stock ones are made of cheese.. Mark bent one just cruising down the highway 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 1, 2019 stock ones are made of cheese.. Mark bent one just cruising down the highwayI must admit the only engines i have ever found with bent pushrods is the crossy when pulled apartSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 1, 2019 I bent one on my 302, limiter set at 5500. Bad valve springs are the culprit. If they bounce and happen to catch the lifter is on its way up, the pushrod is the weak link. Especially long ones like on a crossy. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted January 2, 2019 Where would the power for the injectors come from? Would it be the Ignition module at the dizzy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XCeed 204 Posted January 3, 2019 According to my Ford repair manual, power comes from the EEC relay. Fused link wire from the battery to the relay, red wires from the relay to the injectors. Have you checked the fuse in that pink fuse housing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted January 4, 2019 Looked at the relay and when begining to crank over it clicked and the fuse in the pink housing is fine but cant see if the wire goes to the injectors as it is within the wireloom itself but it seems it goes to the area near the injectors and possibly plug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 4, 2019 Looked at the relay and when begining to crank over it clicked and the fuse in the pink housing is fine but cant see if the wire goes to the injectors as it is within the wireloom itself but it seems it goes to the area near the injectors and possibly plug Time for a aussie speed manifoldSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XCeed 204 Posted January 4, 2019 That fuse is between the battery and the relay and it appears you have direct power to the relay. There should be another red wire running from a separate terminal to the injector bank. Ignore the other two wires (a red/green stripe also runs from another terminal to the ignition coil +ve, and a fourth black wire for earth). You said you have checked the injector terminals and there is no power. I suggest you disconnect the negative lead on the battery, then unplug the other red wire from the relay (not inline with the fuse) and apply 12V to it from the battery. Grab your test lamp or multimeter and try to find where the break is in the line to the injector loom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted January 5, 2019 Red and green wore coming from this relay Red/ green wire to ignition coil but have power at coil but dont know if in coil Got no power at this plug either this plug connects to the whole injector loom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XCeed 204 Posted January 6, 2019 So the plug you've circled in the third picture is definitely the place to look. You should have three wires into the back of that plug, a brown/white stripe, a brown/orange stripe and a red. The red wire runs back to the EEC relay and the other two go to the ecu. I assume you've got a multimeter so pull the solid red wire off the relay (NOT the red wire inline with the fuse that runs to the battery) and set your multimeter to ohms resistance. There should be a dead short, zero resistance between the end of the wire at the relay end and the plug end that you've circled. If you get zero resistance, that wire is fine and your problem is elsewhere. If you get infinite resistance, you have a break in that wire and you'll need to find where. I'm assuming the colour of the wire you're testing is red. That's what the ford wiring diagram states. If the colour of the third wire in that plug is not red, is there a matching colour wire at the relay? Pull that off and test for continuity. 3 deankxf, gerg and FAIRXF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FAIRXF 5 Posted January 6, 2019 Thanks everyone for the help found the issue there was a break in the wire and we hookes the power from relay to the plug and it ran perfectly, untill i found out the thermostat is corroded 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted January 6, 2019 Great to hear you found the problem mate. There’s always plenty of help on here to resolve annoying little issues 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites