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XF 250 crossy EFI problems

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Hey Guys,

 

Recently I have replaced the push rods in my 250 and had to take out injectors ect.. it started before beginning the process and now it doesn't could it be a fuse? because i've tested the power at injectors and there is no power there. what could cause the injectors to not get power or the engine to not start?

 

Thanks in advance

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the only thing i can think of is the green and other relay near the brake booster,(green is fuel pump, other is injectors i thought? could be wrong)

 

haven't broken an earth wire or left a plug loose?

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11 hours ago, deankdx said:

the only thing i can think of is the green and other relay near the brake booster,(green is fuel pump, other is injectors i thought? could be wrong)

 

haven't broken an earth wire or left a plug loose?

Haven't got any green relays only a got a grey wehrle relay with fuel written on it a white ford one and a black ford one 

CZkOwvb.jpg

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1 hour ago, deankdx said:

that black relay has a wire intercepting it, was it on LPG? 
might be switched for LPG. did you delete any wiring?

It did run on lpg before i had it but we removed some of the lpg involved things except the wiring it ran fine till after taking out the injectors and changing the push rods and putting them back in and it hasnt started since

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It did run on lpg before i had it but we removed some of the lpg involved things except the wiring it ran fine till after taking out the injectors and changing the push rods and putting them back in and it hasnt started since
Investigators want to know why you changed pushrods

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51 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

Investigators want to know why you changed pushrods

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
 

stock ones are made of cheese.. Mark bent one just cruising down the highway

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stock ones are made of cheese.. Mark bent one just cruising down the highway
I must admit the only engines i have ever found with bent pushrods is the crossy when pulled apart

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I bent one on my 302, limiter set at 5500. Bad valve springs are the culprit. If they bounce and happen to catch the lifter is on its way up, the pushrod is the weak link. Especially long ones like on a crossy.

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According to my Ford repair manual, power comes from the EEC relay. Fused link wire from the battery to the relay, red wires from the relay to the injectors. Have you checked the fuse in that pink fuse housing?

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Looked at the relay and when begining to crank over it clicked and the fuse in the pink housing is fine but cant see if the wire goes to the injectors as it is within the wireloom itself but it seems it goes to the area near the injectors and possibly plug 

tWtSHr1_d.jpg

AVZaGdA_d.jpg

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Looked at the relay and when begining to crank over it clicked and the fuse in the pink housing is fine but cant see if the wire goes to the injectors as it is within the wireloom itself but it seems it goes to the area near the injectors and possibly plug 
tWtSHr1_d.jpg
AVZaGdA_d.jpg
Time for a aussie speed manifold

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That fuse is between the battery and the relay and it appears you have direct power to the relay. There should be another red wire running from a separate terminal to the injector bank. Ignore the other two wires (a red/green stripe also runs from another terminal to the ignition coil +ve, and a fourth black wire for earth). You said you have checked the injector terminals and there is no power. I suggest you disconnect the negative lead on the battery, then unplug the other red wire from the relay (not inline with the fuse) and apply 12V to it from the battery. Grab your test lamp or multimeter and try to find where the break is in the line to the injector loom.

 

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KXLd648_d.jpg

Red and green wore coming from this relay 

POfQCI5_d.jpg

Red/ green wire to ignition coil but have power at coil but dont know if in coil

WB8nNvM_d.jpg

Got no power at this plug either this plug connects to the whole injector loom 

 

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So the plug you've circled in the third picture is definitely the place to look. You should have three wires into the back of that plug, a brown/white stripe, a brown/orange stripe and a red. The red wire runs back to the EEC relay and the other two go to the ecu.  I assume you've got a multimeter so pull the solid red wire off the relay (NOT the red wire inline with the fuse that runs to the battery) and set your multimeter to ohms resistance. There should be a dead short, zero resistance between the end of the wire at the relay end and the plug end that you've circled. If you get zero resistance, that wire is fine and your problem is elsewhere. If you get infinite resistance, you have a break in that wire and you'll need to find where.

 

I'm assuming the colour of the wire you're testing is red. That's what the ford wiring diagram states. If the colour of the third wire in that plug is not red, is there a matching colour wire at the relay? Pull that off and test for continuity.

 

 

 

kRwb4Vk.jpg

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Thanks everyone for the help found the issue there was a break in the wire and we hookes the power from relay to the plug and it ran perfectly, untill i found out the thermostat is corroded

 

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