Boingk

Boingk's XF Ute - Budget Street & Strip w/Nitrous

83 posts in this topic

Hey gents, thanks for having me aboard. I love inline sixes and doing things on a budget... so the natural candidate is a crossflow powered XF ute. I picked her up locally for the total sum of $1000, fresh out of rego and sporting a few goodies such as a 'recoed' 250 alloyhead crossflow, single-rail 4spd with HD clutch and a full set of snowflake alloys. She's not in the best nick but runs, drives, and gets around without too many issues. Hell, old mate even threw in a dash-mount CB. Goodo!

 

The plan here is to turn her into something I can run to work and back in without dramas, but also take to the track and run mid-12 second passes. I'm looking to use nitrous oxide as well, so this makes things a bit easier as far as strip times and street driveability go. If I crack a 12.5 I'll be stoked, anything better than this is a bonus. The experienced might think this is a no-brainer, but doing it on a budget will be the real challenge - I want to get the lot done for $5k ready to roll.

 

So, 12's for 5? Bring it on! Here's the candidate:

 

 

1.1.jpg

2.1.jpg

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The engine in her is apparently 'recoed' but I really have no idea what they mean by that. It could be a simple bearings & rings job, or may just be a timing chain and head gasket. Hell, it could be some fresh paint and filters, who knows. Either way she's very stock at the moment, but not for long.

 

I started a thread in Crossflow Tech (click here) for advice on the build before I got the ute and decided it'll be pretty conventional, with 4-barrel, camshaft, decent exhaust and ignition plus the nitrous. I've had a request to keep tabs on costs and am happy to share, but keep in mind I do ALL work myself and have since I was 16. No formal training, just learning how to do each new job as it crops up. As far as I see it if you have a space to work, some hand tools and a phone with the 'net you can get anything done in this day and age.

 

Cost listing as we speak:

 

$1000 - ute with reco 250 / 4spd / HD clutch / lotsa rims

$250 - donor XF

$550 - cam / lifter / rockers

$100 - new tonneau cover

$100 - basic service (coolant/filters/oil/plugs)

$50 - new tail lights

$100 - used Holley 600

$600 - Aussiespeed 4bbl manifold

$600 - NX Mainline nitrous kit including plate, AN4 line, etc

$670 - MSD 6AL-2 and Blaster SS coil

$70 - shifter kit for the single-rail

$340 - 4x basic tyres

$270 - 4x new shocks

------------

$4700 total so far

 

It sounds like a big chunk out of 5k but thats most of what needs doing so far. 

 

Here's a few pics of the current engine plus the one from the donor XF:

 

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QHTSlj7vZBvSaBs-RLgThl-S8ZyQ-AtEVozygaD_

 

 

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Alrighty, progress today was having a look at the shifter in the single-rail. It's got a pretty non-existant shift feel, you'll know what I mean if you've shifted any neglected manual box. Warning signs going in were multiple strands of wire holding something together, plus tek-screws in the shifter pot housing. WTF?

 

kvxO6SysepRQ6XHI_OmT4CiNKcjZaNRz6zyXhtMJ

(if you cant see a picture directly above this text let me know)

 

There we go; worn and neglected. Going by this I'll probably drop the box and strip it so see what overall condition its in, but if its anything like this it'll be average at best. Either way I've ordered a proper metal-surround shift bush and a new saddle for the rail as it *did* shift and engage all gears without any harshness or gear whine so it may just need a good strip and refurb.

 

If anyone has any good advice on rebuilding these boxes let me know - materials, tips & tricks, pitfalls for new players, all would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers - boingk

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Clarko does an alloy shifter nut for them. Works a treat.  They usually don't need much. A good clean and fresh oil will have most up and running. Extension housing seals always go as do selector shafts seals and the little bush that goes under the shifter. Other than that they are pretty damn stout. 

 

On the speedway cars we drill and tap the breather outlet and run a breather li e up into the engine bay with a little filter. Stops them having a huff and running fluid out the breather when you flog them hard. We also run them a fraction over full to allow for corners. Less of a problem for drag racing. 

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before those new alloy or brass nuts were available there were plenty of bodge tricks to hold them in. slydog used bmx crank bearing cups with U bolts holding it down(at least i think it was slydog)

 

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Thanks gents, good advice. I'll look at an extended breather as I don't mind a good set of corners... not that there are many out here.

 

While I'm waiting for the shifter stuff to turn up I got a nice, big package dropped on the veranda:

 

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15x7 sunnies! Beauty. Nothing flash but they're cheap and will hold a tyre so I'm happy.

 

Meanwhile I'm still weighing up what camshaft to go with... a mild solid or a hot hydraulic... definitely leaning toward a mild solid, though, something 235@50 with 550ish lift is about where I want to be. That would be in between the two smallest Camtech offerings so should be alright with about 9.75:1 compression or more. Hopefully that's not too much of an issue.

 

 - boingk

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30 minutes ago, Boingk said:

Thanks gents, good advice. I'll look at an extended breather as I don't mind a good set of corners... not that there are many out here.

 

Meanwhile I'm still weighing up what camshaft to go with... a mild solid or a hot hydraulic... definitely leaning toward a mild solid, though, something 235@50 with 550ish lift is about where I want to be. That would be in between the two smallest Camtech offerings so should be alright with about 9.75:1 compression or more. Hopefully that's not too much of an issue.

 

 - boingk

 

does the Nitrous oxide require a certain compression ratio/cam? and even carby?(even though the oxygen is introduced after the carby)

i thought the age old rule is to choose the cam around the rev range/power you want to live with(expect it doughy down low with cam that revs high) and then build the engine to suit the cam(head work/flow, intake/carb, comp and ignition. ) 

does nitrous then say well, if you pump too much in you need a lower comp to prevent detonation(or more comp? ) i really haven't had anything to do with it so am curious about planning it from the beginning(most people add it on a finished build chasing that last 100hp etc. )

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Boink- your going to soft on comp. you will have issues. It's not a hemi 6 with an iron head.  You need the static comp if your going 235@.050 cause you will have some overlap. 

 

Trust me, every piece of the puzzle must work together to get a result. If you don't get that comp right you'll kill that package very quickly. Even with the gas. 

 

Ive got 10.9:1 in the shop ute with a 230@.050 and it's lovely. Snaps hard. Reminds me - I better do a comp test on that thing to see what sort of cylinder pressure it has. 

 

 

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Need at least 200psi across the board , or your not playing . 

 

Comp is your friend with a xflow . Hop on google and look up 'dynamic compression' calculators 

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9 hours ago, deankdx said:

does the Nitrous oxide require a certain compression ratio/cam/carby?

does nitrous then say well, if you pump too much in you need a lower comp to prevent detonation(or more comp? )

 

As far as I know to get the best bang you want something with a decent exhaust duration and not too much overlap, but that's purely from an efficiency point of view. You can fit it to anything, but the big limitation is ring end-gap and timing. To little gap and/or too much timing will blow an engine easy, as the ring ends butt together under heat expansion and blow the top off the piston and send it through the engine. 

 

I don't know how much the carburetor affects things, but I suspect its minimal in the standard operating range. As you said, the nitrous takes its own oxygen-rich atmosphere in with it as well as its own fuel (for a proper wet shot) so shouldn't need anything from the carb.

 

1 hour ago, ando76 said:

Boink- your going to soft on comp. you will have issues. Trust me, every piece of the puzzle must work together to get a result.

Ive got 10.9:1 in the shop ute with a 230@.050 and it's lovely. Snaps hard. 

 

Cheers for the advice, I probably should have emphasized the '9.75:1 or more' part of my post though, haha. I'm definitely looking to run some compression in her - I don't want less than 10.5:1 or its not really going to perform how I want it to at all, and I'll have to cam it down significantly to have it not be a complete dog under 4,000rpm. Biggest limiting factor for me is finding pistons with decent specs. 

 

The calculator I use is called 'Virtual Dyno', its a phone app based around a modified version of Dyno2000. Specs I'm working with as follows:

 

3.685" bore / 3.91" stroke (if I don't need an oversize, depends on what the 'reco' motor is)

0.00 deck height (yep I realise stock is about 0.030" down the hole)

6.8cc head gasket volume with 0.040" gasket

20cc piston dish 

47cc head volume 

 

That gives 10.26:1 with little more than a decked block and head with standard .040 gasket. If I can get a hold of 12cc pistons that same combo will be almost spot on 11:1 with a 50cc head. Alternatively, if I get lucky with my C2 heads and can grab a .030" gasket  then I'm looking at 10.75:1 with a 20cc dished piston.

 

It all depends on what the engine pulls down like - that'll happen in the next few days.

 

 - boingk

 

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7.5cc dish pistons on 200 rods come up pretty regularly on speedways parts forums on Facebook. I have a customer in Townsville that may be looking at selling his as we are building a new motor for him using old acl single comp ring flat tops (between him and I we have enough for a complete set and spares). 

 

Most people are just going barra these days so they come up cheap, most have seen some use but in reality they are still a good piston. Tune wrecks more pistons than the actual material of the piston in my experience. 

 

Your plan looks solid, 42cc head means your looking a c2 at a guess. Make sure you get rid if the sharp edge where the in,et and exhaust swirls meet, especially with the gas. 

 

Looking firward to seeing this one go together.  Enjoy. 

 

PS. Can't see the photos. 

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can the crossy block cope with taking 70 thou or more off to take the 1.478 comp height pistons i assume they are pre crossflow,cause the normal ones have a taller comp height.

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11 hours ago, Grimmy said:

 

Yep.

 

9 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

can the crossy block cope with taking 70 thou or more off to take the 1.478 comp height pistons i assume they are pre crossflow

 

And there we go.

 

13 hours ago, ando76 said:

7.5cc dish pistons on 200 rods come up pretty regularly on speedways parts forums on Facebook. I have a customer in Townsville that may be looking at selling his as we are building a new motor for him using old acl single comp ring flat tops (between him and I we have enough for a complete set and spares). 

 

Your plan looks solid, 42cc head means your looking a c2 at a guess. Make sure you get rid if the sharp edge where the inlet and exhaust swirls meet, especially with the gas. 

 

Looking forward to seeing this one go together.  Enjoy. 

 

PS. Can't see the photos. 

 

Thanks mate, much appreciated. At this point I'm open to any and all advice, sent you a PM.

 

I'll try redoing the images. Forums have changed since I was active on them a lot.

 

 - boingk

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Evening all, productive day on the ute.

 

The plan has evolved slightly to build the spare engine and run the one in the ute as it with a few upgrades in the meantime. This has the bonus of letting me get the ute on the road and sort out the usual host of driveline and ignition gremlins.

 

With that in mind, and my new Aussiespeed AS0016 manifold in hand, I started ripping away all the emission-controlled crap from the intake side of the engine.

 

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Turned out alright, and the head looks to have been recently hot-tanked and the mating surfaces machined. They were visibly clean when I gave the engine a hit of degreaser, so that's a good sign about the engine being a refurbished unit... although I still have no idea what spec.

 

More as it comes - boingk

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Evening all, hope Santa was good to you. I've been hammering away at all the small stuff on the ute, like putting a passenger door on (long story) and sourcing a new bonnet and tailgate as spares. 

 

While I was at it I set up a quick shade sail and quickly sprayed the snowflake mags silver. I actually don't mind them so they might stay!

 

I got the exhaust manifold off and thats about all she wrote before daytime temps went north of 40'C and stayed there.

 

gaMElAVGlHnXy6x0DqqSl-MESwl3PhxR1c7haGri

 

Cheers - boingk

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yeah was definitely a hot day, 

your pics aren't showing. .not sure why not(privacy setting?)

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1 hour ago, Boingk said:

Thanks gents, any difference now?

yep, all good. 

pics make the world go round..

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Thanks gents, figured out I needed a dedicated 'shared' album with Google pictures.

 

And a big thanks to ando for helping me with some parts, this will make the build progress a bit quicker...

 

 - boingk

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Pulled the trigger on an ignition system. After some research I found out what I wanted was MSD65303 - the programmable digital 6AL-2 box - coupled with an MSD8207 Blaster SS coil. For my use that will be plenty; the ignition box will let me dial in my own curve, set rev limits, program nitrous retard and all the other good stuff. Seeing as I've partially gutted the engine bay loom and antiquated emissions controls this is all a positive step!

 

I've decided on a camshaft as well, the Crow 872 solid. Its 231@50 with 554 lift on a 108 lobe sep. Yes, its only a baby solid but that brings other advantages. Either way it should make for great usable power provided I can get the compression up to scratch, and on a 262 degree advertised duration shouldn't have a ton of overlap so will play nicely with nitrous.

 

I've added the adjusted costs and total to second post I made, so far its all in for $3990.

 

Cheers - boingk

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