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Acrylic Paint Issues

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OK apart from the "you should have just gone with 2-pack" comment, can anyone confirm my suspicions that water pitting in clearcoat is caused by rain being acidic?

 

I've cut, buffed, waxed several times in the past year, and that amount of time should have been enough for the paint to harden fully. Yet still, after it has rained overnight and some large beads of water are left on all the horizontal surfaces, I wipe off the water and there are etches left behind, around the edges of where each bead was. This was not long after waxing, which you'd think would protect the paint from that sort of thing.

 

The only way to remove the marks was to 1200 it all down, knock that down with 2000, then cut/polish/wax all over again. I don't want to go through this every time it rains, otherwise I'll run out of clear coat to take off, and besides, it's a pain in the arse.

 

Is keeping the car under cover the only option?

 

Anyone gone through the backyard acrylic spray job, and had this shit to deal with?

 

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After a year acrylic should have well and truly cured. Which brand of clear did you use? What wax are you sealing with?

I have seen paintwork "watermark" like that but usually takes longer static exposure. May sound dopey but collect some rain in a clean glass and test the ph etc.

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After a year acrylic should have well and truly cured. Which brand of clear did you use? What wax are you sealing with?

I have seen paintwork "watermark" like that but usually takes longer static exposure. May sound dopey but collect some rain in a clean glass and test the ph etc.
The paint was Concept, made here in Sydney. My techniques may not have been the best (spraying in hot weather, etc). I did get a good finish before but it's still easily damaged by said water beads. It seems worse when the rain is a short, dirty shower after a dry spell, instead of a steady few days of clean drizzle.

Wax was originally Nu-Finish, which buffed up nicely. It's a synthetic-based one. I have a feeling that it's not a thick enough film to protect acrylic, as it's not a priority with the majority of paints out there being 2K.

I've now started applying Bowden's Carnauba Wax just on the bonnet and so far so good. We'll see if that protects better than the "once a year car polish" Nu-Finish. It's not cheap at 26 bucks a bottle but hopefully worth it.

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Yeah I wouldn't trust the old slogan on nufinish these days. I highly doubt it's the same formula as it was in the 80s when it was designed to keep acrylic and enamel looking good.

The heavier wax like the bowdens should help a lot. $26 is a small price compared to continual rectification if it does protect the paint.

There must be something a bit nasty near you (factory or production of some kind) creating a lot of particulate which gets dumped on the car with the short showers. More rain washes it off but short showers will leave it sitting (and active) until dry. Heavy traffic flow nearby will do it too. It's a bitch even for 2k paint, just takes longer to show but by the time it does, your clear is peeling in great big sheets.

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I'm willing to try anything at this stage

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Rub the whole car back dust a 2k primer over the top then hit it with 2k. I read what U posted but really using acyilic paint U should have just burnt your money.

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Rub the whole car back dust a 2k primer over the top then hit it with 2k. I read what U posted but really using acyilic paint U should have just burnt your money.

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Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to do that so I'll just have to live with imperfection. Next time, if I can stretch to a 2k job then I definitely will.

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Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to do that so I'll just have to live with imperfection. Next time, if I can stretch to a 2k job then I definitely will.

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2pak is much cheaper then acyrilic
I if your base is good. I've painted a xf falcon with 2 litres of base an 1.2 litres of clear an 1 litre hardner 2 litres reducer $248


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Yeah I know you go through much less material. Thinners instead of 50/50 is more like 90/10.

Much less coats needed for coverage too.

But I don't have a booth and couldn't afford to rent one at the time. I was very happy with the initial finish but it has deteriorated over a year.

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Bowden's Wax is design for maximum gloss and shine, rather than protection. They have synthetic sealants (Afterglow and Fully Slick) that have longer lasting protection than the Body Wax will.

Best way to use them is wax, let it cure (4hrs+) and then either (or both) Afterglow or FS. The sealants can also be layered on top for longer protection

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