Jump to content
XFtoXE

Distributor module

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, XFtoXE said:

Hi all.

I have a quick question. What type of grease do you put between the module and the distributor, and why? cheers 

 

it's called dielectric grease, to My understanding it helps with heat transfer from the transistor to the alloy base of dizzy. would prolong the life of the module

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, XFtoXE said:

Thanks deankdx.

This could be the reason my ute dies as soon as it warms up.

i'd change coil first.. had coils do that more often, feel how hot it is.. if it's hot, its probably stuffed.. tip cold water on it.. if it fires up again, = coil

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dielectric grease is a clear silicone paste substance - to minimise corrosion of mating surfaces, and promote electrical conductivity.

 

Heat Transfer paste is what you want to use - between any Transistor like semi-conductor components, and their heatsink.

(ie, TFI modules)

 

Hall effect sensors inside the dizzy, seem to die (or become faulty) more often than actual TFI modules.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea changed the coil as I thought that would be the problem

But still the same as soon as it reaches 90 degrees (on my gauge) it stops dead and wont start again.

So I will pull the dizzy and check out sparky dave idea The hall effect sensors is that the stator?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, XFtoXE said:

Yea changed the coil as I thought that would be the problem

But still the same as soon as it reaches 90 degrees (on my gauge) it stops dead and wont start again.

So I will pull the dizzy and check out sparky dave idea The hall effect sensors is that the stator?

 

could also be the EST computer if it has one? heard they can have issues, but never had one give issues 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

It's the little black electrical jigger with 3 wires,

that looks like a minature credit card swiping thingy.

 

 

is it the PIP? in the dizzy? brother had that issue once also. 

 

ended up changing everything on his car, swaptronics.. still cheaper than paying a specialist

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think my jigger only has 2 wires. I obviously dont know much distributors hall effect jiggers and now pips.

I took it out and dismantled it and their is a lot of play in the shaft so its off to the wreckers.

Choke is good thanks chestnut

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PIP, is Fords name for the Hall Effect sensor.

PIP = Profile Ignition Pickup

 

Get a new hall effect sensor, I personally, wouldn't go sec/hand for that.

The transistor wears out with age, from switching 11ty billion times/second.

 

It's the tiny black thing, that the chopper wheel passes through, inside the distributor.

 

Performance Ignition - Norcal Rd Nunawading is your best bet.

 

IMPORTANT NOTE -

(something I did not think of earlier)

 

The pre-EST distributors run a reluctor coil type distributor, and do not have a hall effect sensor.

(with the ignition module on the side under a cover)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-OEM-QUALITY-Ignition-Hall-Effect-Switch-For-FORD-FALCON-XF-2D-Van-RWD/172566850654?epid=18020196127&hash=item282dc92c5e:g:WXMAAOSwOkxbtipP:rk:1:pf:0

 

The EST motors (unleaded), and all EFI motors, have the hall effect sensor type distributor.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HME301-Hall-Effect-Sensor-HKZ101-HKZ101S-HKZ121-SAAB-BMW-VW-Audi-Distributor-/282532817272

 

https://hiem.com/hall-effect-switches/

http://www.dtec.net.au/High Energy Ignition Upgrade.htm

 

Which type of Distributor, do you have?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mine is a solid state ignition which would be the pre EST distributor
s-l200.jpg      Is this the part I need?
 
By the way thanks for the help
Just buy a new dizzy that model is very cheap

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, XFtoXE said:

Mine is a solid state ignition which would be the pre EST distributor

DISTRIBUTOR PICK UP HALL EFFECT SENSOR FITS FORD XD XE XF COMMODORE VC VH VK 6CY      Is this the part I need?

 

By the way thanks for the help

 

Yeah, or just get the coil/wire assembly, by itself without the magnetic reluctor wheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, XFtoXE said:

Mine is a solid state ignition which would be the pre EST distributor

DISTRIBUTOR PICK UP HALL EFFECT SENSOR FITS FORD XD XE XF COMMODORE VC VH VK 6CY      Is this the part I need?

 

By the way thanks for the help

if the bushes in the dissy for the shaft to run in, are worn, that might be the issue with this dissy anyway. 
they can be rebuilt, but probably cheaper to buy new as Chestnut suggests. 

ICE ignition in Melbourne reco dissys .. could contact them also for advice

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi forum junkies

My mate Josh just acquired a low-rust but incomplete XB coupe (hopefully build thread coming)

We tried all arvo yesterday to fire it up, but could only get it to kick on a couple of pots. It hasn't run for a few years. After fucking with the Holley for a while, we eventually stopped it gushing fuel out of the bowl vents (float needle o-rings).

Sounds like it's got plenty of compression when cranking.

To eliminate the issue of stale fuel, we gave it some start ya bastard. Still barely kicked or even backfired. Tried going 180 with the dizzy, no luck.
Put it back where it was, got it running on about 3 cylinders for about 2 seconds.

Old owner reckons plugs are brand new.

When checking for spark with the original coil straight off the coil lead, it would only jump about 10mm to earth. That told me the coil was a dud. Replaced with a brand new GT40 cannister type, no better. Tried plain wire instead of the coil lead, still no improvement.

Now I'm thinking could it be the module (dizzy is the later Bosch electronic type) not giving the coil enough balls... I've only ever seen them either work fine or nothing.

Anyone had a weak spark caused by a dud module?

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, gerg said:

Hi forum junkies

My mate Josh just acquired a low-rust but incomplete XB coupe (hopefully build thread coming)

We tried all arvo yesterday to fire it up, but could only get it to kick on a couple of pots. It hasn't run for a few years. After fucking with the Holley for a while, we eventually stopped it gushing fuel out of the bowl vents (float needle o-rings).

Sounds like it's got plenty of compression when cranking.

To eliminate the issue of stale fuel, we gave it some start ya bastard. Still barely kicked or even backfired. Tried going 180 with the dizzy, no luck.
Put it back where it was, got it running on about 3 cylinders for about 2 seconds.

Old owner reckons plugs are brand new.

When checking for spark with the original coil straight off the coil lead, it would only jump about 10mm to earth. That told me the coil was a dud. Replaced with a brand new GT40 cannister type, no better. Tried plain wire instead of the coil lead, still no improvement.

Now I'm thinking could it be the module (dizzy is the later Bosch electronic type) not giving the coil enough balls... I've only ever seen them either work fine or nothing.

Anyone had a weak spark caused by a dud module?

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
 

 

guessing it wouldn't have been electronic when new, it may have "resistor wire" from key switch to coil(or ign module) if you are cranking on the original wire still. .this is equivalent of a ballast resistor dropping volts.. 

could try hotwiring it briefly straight from a good source (battery) 

 

it's starting to remind me of BGDAV's F100 where we don't trust the timing marks, it doesn't seem to run where you'd set it(10deg before tdc) it needed a heap of advance for some reason. we swore the thing must have had no spark, no compression, no fuel.. i pretty much decided it had to be fuel so fitted LPG back to it.. it was easier to NOT FLOOD IT then.. it seems to have a very narrow timing area where it works on both fuels.. timing light is showing from under the engine like at 7oclock area , a long way from the pointer. 

 

we haven't gone further other than, it can now sit for a month, crank over on LPG and fire up and move WOW! yeah, it's reliable.. no idea what it drives like at this "setting" yet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



 
guessing it wouldn't have been electronic when new, it may have "resistor wire" from key switch to coil(or ign module) if you are cranking on the original wire still. .this is equivalent of a ballast resistor dropping volts.. 
could try hotwiring it briefly straight from a good source (battery) 


Yeah great minds think alike.... I eliminated that possibility with first measuring the volts at coil (was 12V) and also running a feed straight from battery.


 

 
it's starting to remind me of BGDAV's F100 where we don't trust the timing marks, it doesn't seem to run where you'd set it(10deg before tdc) it needed a heap of advance for some reason. we swore the thing must have had no spark, no compression, no fuel..


Yeah haven't looked at that possibility, but timing seems in the ballpark anyway. The only screwy thing I could see was that the plug leads were put on 180 out from where they normally are, so I made sure the rotor was 180 out also. Like I said, fired on a couple then nothing. Although I filled the carby full of fresh fuel, I'm starting to think that the stale fuel was coming through to the carby with so much cranking, causing all the issues. Next step would be to drain what's left in the tank and replace that with fresh stuff.

Still doesn't explain the weak (ish) spark from the brand new coil. I could try manually earthing out the coil then breaking contact to generate a spark, and compare that to what it can make with the module.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

6 cyl or 8?  

 

With the old LTD (351) when the module was fooked, it would run fine if you pumped the pedal and held it above 3 grand, any less and it died.

 

Check your firing order again,

Dizzy cap cracked,

Blocked fuel filter etc, etc, 

Crank it over while twisting the dizzy to see if it fires better, then you'll know if the Balancer has slipped.

Try running fuel straight from a can to the carby. 

Sticky valves??  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



6 cyl or 8?  
 
With the old LTD (351) when the module was fooked, it would run fine if you pumped the pedal and held it above 3 grand, any less and it died.
 
Check your firing order again,
Dizzy cap cracked,
Blocked fuel filter etc, etc, 
Crank it over while twisting the dizzy to see if it fires better, then you'll know if the Balancer has slipped.
Try running fuel straight from a can to the carby. 
Sticky valves??  


It's a blue 302C, running the later dizzy.

Dizzy cap looks good, probably new, carby definitely getting fuel (was flooding until I swapped floats and needles)

Tried turning dizzy each way a bit, then retarding by a tooth, ran for a couple of seconds and then nothing.

Pumped some fresh fuel into the carby to try and fire it, but I suspect that the old fuel was coming through. Still, even with starting ether it barely kicked.

Solenoid was starting to get very hot from cranking, starter motor wasn't happy either.

Next step we'll be flushing it out and starting from scratch.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×