SteveHobart

Crossy build- am I on the right track

36 posts in this topic

There’ll be a roll pin in a hole that goes through both half’s of the selector shaft, knock it out with a pin punch.
go buy a casket kit for a single rail and change all the gaskets while your at it.
Since i had my single rail fully rebuilt its unreal and new alloy shifter screw in thing best gearbox in a single rail i have ever haf

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The shift spool being the ‘round thing’ around the shifter shaft and the guide being the slot on the top cover. Using words I can understand () you have to get the round thing on the shifter shaft to sit in the guide on the top cover yes?


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Correct, and that slot is only stamped steel that can bend and distort very easily if not lined up with the spool properly as you bolt the top cover on. If any end clearance in that slot allows the spool to move back and forth excessively, you could end up being jammed in gear. If you miss that slot altogether with the spool, you can get 2 gears at once, which is the perfect recipe for carnage.

The proper terminology for that part is "shift interlock spool", which means exactly what it says. It prevents one shift fork from engaging while the other is actuated, or more accurately, keeps one in neutral while the shift pin is pushing or pulling on the other. Very simple and clever setup.

Another thing is that the top cover cork gasket cannot be substituted with silastic or similar because the cork provides a set shim distance between the casing and the cover. If you try installing with just sealant, the spool will touch the cover plate and prevent the bolts tightening all the way down. It will piss oil out the top of the box or bend the top cover.

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Little bit late to the party but good luck with the build mate! I’m running a 14892 (have been for a while) and was great at the time because it standard converter (now a manual), standard rockers and standard balancer so the shows all over by 5,000rpm. But yeh can’t wait to go abit bigger eventually.

 

So a couple of you have mentioned aftermarket lightened flywheels, had no idea this was an option. So the Windsor one with the correct tooth count bolts straight in? Would you still be able to use the pressure plate and clutch from the standard flywheel or do new holes need to be tapped into the flywheel? Excuse my ignorance with this one

 

 

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I believe a zero balance Windsor 157 tooth is the same as a Ford 6. Drillings for clutch bolts however I don't know about. Yella Terra list this flywheel for both, but doesn't say anything about clutch compatibility. Maybe give them a ring?

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I believe a zero balance Windsor 157 tooth is the same as a Ford 6. Drillings for clutch bolts however I don't know about. Yella Terra list this flywheel for both, but doesn't say anything about clutch compatibility. Maybe give them a ring?

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Very good question

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Cheers boys might be worth a call, would be nice to know for the future. Thanks again Greg


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gerg likes this

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I used a zero balance 5.0 billet flywheel from yella terra on my 4.0 in my xh, it took a 4.0 style pressure plate and clutch without any mods

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I used a zero balance 5.0 billet flywheel from yella terra on my 4.0 in my xh, it took a 4.0 style pressure plate and clutch without any mods

Thanks Thom there you go can’t imagine it being any different then.


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For a light flywheel i am impressed with mine. 6.5kg with ring gear on.

Www.ironforce.co.nz

Be cheap as with aussie money haha6c47a494ae03ccf51b3fc3f033d43c9b.jpg

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Looks awesome mate is this also a Windsor one as well that fit? Did you ever drive the car with the standard flywheel to compare?


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