Crossy build- am I on the right track

[gerg 10,871]

I like the wing... Yes retro but functional and not gaudy like some of the others from the period.

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[dex 2,065]

+ 1 ,,subtle 

[SteveHobart 57]

Next up, colour coded the front bumper.




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[deankxf 20,266]

On 9/30/2019 at 7:09 PM, SteveHobart said:

body workish (not a word).

perfectly cromulent word

 

making progress, better than some projects lately(mine in particular)

[MUZWOG79 1]

On 11/12/2018 at 9:02 PM, gerg said:

 

 

OK some dissection of your plan:

"port & polish" - just port, not polish. Polishing is a waste of time and has a negative effect on fuel atomisation and air velocity.

"zero deck block" - good move

"40 thou piston" - only if it needs it. Boring gives a negligible increase in displacement and power, so just go the absolute minimum to clean up the wear.

"crow 14892" - might be a tad small for what you want. I would go a size or two up.

14770 - 214/224 510"/514", 111LSA
14550S - 219/223 510"/510" 106LSA (speedway cam, a bit cranky)
14686 - 224/224 507"/507" 108LSA (also cranky)

But the one you quoted might feel a bit wheezy on the track.

"stronger valve springs" yep good move. Go at least 115lb on the seat, high 200s on the nose. I got Crane Blue Racers pretty cheap. If you want the motor to live a long, happy life, invest in some good roller rockers. The stock rockers (with stiffer springs) will burn through your oil, wear out quicker and put stress on your valve stems.

"Megasquirt ECU" - can't comment on that one but they must be OK if they're still in business.

Now some more to add:

Get it balanced (pistons, rods). Invest in a good harmonic balancer. These engines don't like RPM with an untouched bottom end.

When determining how much comp you need, focus on dynamic compression ratio, not static. This means that you select your compression ratio based on how the cam works in relation to the piston position. There are online calculators that help you with this. On an alloy head, aim for about 8.5:1 dynamic. You need to know the engine parameters to input though, which will require other calculators to find.

This is a good site:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Be careful when shaving the head/block to zero deck the pistons. Your pushrod length will be affected.

A lighter flywheel does wonders for engine response and fast gearchanges. An 8kg zero balance 157 tooth Windsor one will bolt on.

The stock EFI bananas can start to get restrictive with only small increases in power. EA-ED logs are a good conversion, this also swaps intake piping to the cold side of the engine. If done right, the setup can look like it was made to be there.

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Hi Guys

Im new to the group, and I was doing some research as I'm planning on building a motor for my XF Ghia, and i stumbled on this thread.

This is some great information and exactly what I was looking for.

 

Do you have any idea what sort of power figures you would expect for the above mentioned build?

I was thinking of going a hydraulic roller cam and lifters set up, as I have heard you can get some good gains and better life out of the motor. Can anyone recommend a good (reasonably priced) roller cam and lifter combo that would be suitable for an EFI crossflow with an E2 alloy head?

 

Also, if I zero deck my block, will i need to change the crank size and rod length, or would the stock bottom end still work?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated as this is my first attempt at an engine build.

[slydog 7,873]

No one does hyd roller for xflows.

[gerg 10,871]

Do you have any idea what sort of power figures you would expect for the above mentioned build?


I was thinking of going a hydraulic roller cam and lifters set up, as I have heard you can get some good gains and better life out of the motor. Can anyone recommend a good (reasonably priced) roller cam and lifter combo that would be suitable for an EFI crossflow with an E2 alloy head?
 
Also, if I zero deck my block, will i need to change the crank size and rod length, or would the stock bottom end still work?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated as this is my first attempt at an engine build.

Power figures are completely dependent on cam choice, compression and head flow. A healthy street crossy should make between 200 and 230 hp. You start needing to beef up bottom end components above this power level to deal with the rpm needed.

Decking the block for zero height: this is done both to maximise quench and to equalise piston heights for consistent compression in each cylinder (after piston heights are also machined to be equal). Piston heights vary the most when cheap rebuilder pistons are used, also the heights are the lowest on these to allow for such wide tolerances. I don't know what performance pistons are available for Aussie crossies but if there are some, they will likely have closer tolerances and be closer to correct deck height, needing less meat off the deck to compensate.

When you deck the block, you are only taking off thousandths of an inch. Rod length and stroke are unaffected.

If you can still find them, try and source some 200 rods and combine them with the special ACL pistons. Long rods put less side-thrust on the piston and bore.

Roller cam: this will be the biggest single cost of the build besides machining. You will need specific pushrods and roller rockers to go along with it too.

If not going with big valve spring pressure and/or big cam lift, a flat tappet would do the job at 1/4 the price. Just run the old style oil with lots of zinc.

Cylinder head will need some specialist work to get any more power out of it. There is little room for improvement on the stock casting (without major professional work) as opposed to say 2V clevelands, which are shockers and can have big gains with a little tidy-up work.

I think many go into crossy builds expecting V8 horsepower but fail to consider that these engines were never designed with performance in mind. A realistic figure, especially for a first build, would be around 200hp (or 150 kW) at the flywheel. That would be a really fun package in a light car (by today's standards) like an 80s Falcon. With the right diff and gearbox ratios, you could get into the 14s with that combo.

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[MUZWOG79 1]

Thanks for the advice Gerg

[slydog 7,873]

And again no one does hyd roller cams for xflows. Only solid roller profiles thus far and in a dying engine tbh

[gerg 10,871]

You can physically use a solid roller with hydraulic roller lifters, but the profile will in effect be milder in duration due to the more gentle ramp of the solid grind. You would go say 10-15 degrees more in advertised duration in a solid using hyd lifters to compensate for that gentle ramp, but then you're still bleeding compression with the slow opening. It would be a compromise for sure.

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[MUZWOG79 1]

14 minutes ago, slydog said:

And again no one does hyd roller cams for xflows. Only solid roller profiles thus far and in a dying engine tbh

Thanks Slydog. noted

[slydog 7,873]

Hyd lifters are heavier and need more spring to control which means single groove valves and 10degree locks and retainers on machined pads as no one does that hardware in a xflow spring size.

[gerg 10,871]

Hyd lifters are heavier and need more spring to control which means single groove valves and 10degree locks and retainers on machined pads as no one does that hardware in a xflow spring size.

Couldn't you just machine the pads for Clevo or Windsor running gear? Surely there's something out there that suits?

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[slydog 7,873]

That is clevo gear as discribed...

 

Needs clearanced block,BBF lifters,BBC pushrods,custom guide plates and BBC mark 5 screw in studs with clevo,bbf or even BBC rockers.

[SteveHobart 57]

Hey all

After some advice. I’ve started putting together a little more on the Falcon. I’ve come up against a choice.
EGT Valve. It’s already been eliminated, so I’ve just put a blanking plate on it.
The Mega squirt ecu eliminates all the Emission controls so I don’t need all of those.

So, guru’s. My questions:
What vacuum connections do I actually need?
What do I do with the PVC valve (which is broken and I can’t seem to find a new one)

And advice would be appreciated.


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[SteveHobart 57]

Update to progress

So with Christmas, Holidays and all, I have managed a little bit of time on the old XF. I have managed to:
- install the 1/2 cage
- install the second (passenger) seat
- rebuilt the rear brakes
- installed a new rear handbrake cable (this was missing entirely)
- changed the rear trailing arm and Watts Link bushings for Nolethane (they were stuffed)
- changed the Swaybar links and bushings, am going to run the factory swaybar for now!
- removed the tow bar from the rear bumper (cut out the actual towbar)
- rewired the engine bay to a distribution block for positive and negative and;
- have just relocated the battery tray to the boot (where the spare wheel used to sit).
Am getting there!



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