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BenMason

T5 from XG into '91 XF Ute

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Hi All,

 

Can anyone please let me know if there's anything that won't fit from an XG ute into a '91 XF?  The motor is shagged in the XG and the XF is an auto with 4.1 x-flow so want to move everything to do with the manual over to the XF including the disc brake rear end and 1 tonne leafs.  Assuming I'll need to move the brake booster over will it all just bolt up?

 

Sorry couldn't find anything in relation to this.

 

Cheers,

Ben

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You'd need to find a crossflow T5 bell housing to mount the gearbox, also will probably need a T5 XF gearbox cross member, (XG had different floor mountings for the gearbox)
the rest would all bolt in.

you'll need to by a spigot bearing, the auto engine won't have it.

the brake line nut at the diff flexible hose may need an adapter, XG is metric, XF is imperial. 

 

** assuming the engine is original, the flywheel bolts will fit from the XG manual engine, but if its' a leaded XF engine or older (84DA casting) it will have bigger bolts)

 

brake master booster currently will be fine, but they should be a direct swap if the XG one isn't stuffed. 

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Thanks Dean,

 

It's a '91 unleaded XF, anyone know of anyone around Brisbane or the sunny coast that would have a bell housing and cross member they would be willing to part with?

 

I already have a new spigot bearing and clutch kit to go in while it's all out ;) 

 

This is getting done up for my son as his first car, so I'll probably be doing a build page up for it as we go along.

 

Cheers,

 

Ben

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OK, changed my mind, will everything including the engine from the XG swap over with only the need for an XF Manual cross member?  I can get a complete XG ute for $400, body is stuffed but it runs and drives perfectly.

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what's wrong with the XF running gear, far more reliable and fixable in My opinion.. 

if you are up for a challenge then yes it is NEARLY the same shell(different lower radiator support panel) few brackets in the engine bay on XG for air filter box etc. 

if i HAD to do it(which if i did, i'd just buy a better XG if that's what i wanted) i'd swap everything including the wiring looms and fuel lines.. 

 

 

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Nothing wrong with the running gear in the '91 XF, it's only done 180k motor is quiet and strong but it's got an auto and son wants a manual.  I have both of the utes already and not afraid to get my hands dirty with cutting brackets from the XG to weld back into the XF if that's what's required.  The original plan was to move the manual over to the XF from the XG but sourcing the bell housing is an additional cost that's not necessary if i just move the motor as well.

 

The 4.0OHC injected motor is probably more suited to a daily driver with not having to stuff around with carbys as well.  The 4.0 only needs a new set of welsh plugs and it's perfectly good for use again.  I'd simply fix up the XG but the body is in really poor condition having lived lord only knows how long under a tree, but it's complete and suitable as a donor car.

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Everyone differs in their opinions. I differ from Dean, I prefer the ohc over a crossflow ( Dean also likes Gemini’s so we just pretend to like him and be interested in his car ). Do what you want.
I’m telling now that if that motor needs Welsh plugs it’ll need more, like water pump, head gasket and the metal pipes that run around the motor will be corroded too. It’ll be a big job to change it all over. Like Dean said, airbox mounts, I’m not sure on the radiator mounting. You can remove the entire dash from the firewall and just put it straight into the Xf and switch the heater box too, the wiring is different.

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Cheers, the dash and heater box has already been swapped over from the XG to the XF cos the young fella wanted the star wars cluster and the XF didn't have A/C...

 

If the motor's out shouldn't be too hard to swap out the water pump and piping i'd assume.  Compression is good and there's no water in the oil so head gasket appears to be OK, but not hard to change it while it's out.

 

He doesn't get his learners permit till March next year so time isn't an issue; plus it'll be good bonding time with him ;)  Just have to ignore the whines and nags from the Mrs with the dunger taking up room while we strip it.

 

And Dean ... All good on the Gemini's we all have our own little personal issues here and there :P

 

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The hard part is finding pipes that aren’t corroded as they don’t make them any more. Do the headgasket when the motor is out, fit a multi layer steel (mls) AU spec gasket and new head bolts. Don’t forget there is a Welsh plug hidden behind the flywheel in the block too.

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HAHA it's the plug behind the FW that's gone ... always the hardest one to get too

 

Only ever worked on x-flows from my XD days and the Barra in my XR6T never an OHC.  Could I get the pipe made if it's just bent steel?

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yeah one thing you'll learn by doing this conversion is EVERYTHING.. 

i've had heaps of falcons over the last 25yrs and everything i learned was by fixing them(same for the gemini pretty much) 

 

reco weber carby if staying petrol for $500 will probably never need touching ever again, i had dual fuel 99% of the time and no carby likes running on gas and ever working on petrol again properly. efi seems a bit more forgiving on dual fuel. 


biggest issue i have with the ohc engines in XG is not being able to fit your hands anywhere to undo anything.. (crossflow, starter removed in 3mins.. alternator 5mins. etc..) 
also not a fan of the smart lock shut down on these modern fords(XG is modern for Me)

 

 

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Well there's going to be a good 250 unleaded x-flow with 3-speed slush box up for sale soon for you old tech guys

 

and it's good to see this forum is sticking with being Aussie ... nothing more Aussie then a little slandering your mates and Falcon's

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Heya guys I’m currently putting a t5 in behind my 351w in my xf & upon jacking the box up into place I found it was too long to sit nicely up in the tunnel!
I was told that because it’s a v8 t5 the Input shaft is 20 mm longer? The gearbox cross member isn’t a problem I can just modify that to fit but I’m thinking of slotting the engine mounts 5mm or so & taking the angle grinder to the back of the tunnel to get the clearance...does anyone have any experience with this?


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Heya guys I’m currently putting a t5 in behind my 351w in my xf & upon jacking the box up into place I found it was too long to sit nicely up in the tunnel!
I was told that because it’s a v8 t5 the Input shaft is 20 mm longer? The gearbox cross member isn’t a problem I can just modify that to fit but I’m thinking of slotting the engine mounts 5mm or so & taking the angle grinder to the back of the tunnel to get the clearance...does anyone have any experience with this?


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I take it that the bellhousing that came with the box is right for the flywheel ie: the 351W flywheel is 164 tooth, not 157 as it normally is on a 302. Or, you swapped a 302 (157 tooth) fly onto the motor to match the bell.

What year Windsor is it? Make sure you have the correct external balance flywheel.

You could try and clearance the tunnel with a ball pein hammer before resorting to grinding.

If there's only 5mm in it, then slotting might be the go. The shifter still might not line up with the hole in the tunnel.

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Hey mate, the motor & box came complete & running I haven’t checked the flywheel but it was running & driving well in a jail bar previously.
I bought the windsor & t5 after blowing up my Cleveland, I’ve measured the bell housing on both the c4 & t5 & found the clevo one measures 160mm face to face & t5 180mm.
The gear stick just fits up through the tunnel but hits the back of the hole while selecting 2nd & 4th but I can just cut the hole a little further back to fix that.
I was thinking I could slot the holes in the engine mounts & base plates to move the engine slightly forward but does anyone think that could compromise the mounts by not having the same amount of meat at the front?
The back of the tunnel seems pretty solid but I will give it a bash tonight & see how much space I can create.
I’m assuming I’ll need decent clearance between the back of the box & the tunnel to stop vibration problems.

Cheers guys I appreciate any advice as I’ve been going round in circles on google & coming up empty


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