CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted October 28, 2018 yeah thats whats bothering me,i spent 2 weeks on the internet harassing usa engine part places to get the right rings ,the 2 small oil rings are actually spacers between the spring arnt they ?,im gunna do a dummy fit first when i get the block back and see what is going on,i thought the rings are not supposed to protude out even 001' ?Here is a eg crossy piston n rings that show mammoth gap even tho compressed into the groove yeah ? The oil section im talking about its about 3mmSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted October 28, 2018 i took the oil rings off and re put em back on and yup just enough gap on the crossy factory ring set Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted October 28, 2018 Then maybe that one on the Windsor shouldn't overlap at all. Never noticed that gap to be honest. Sure they're not for a +40 engine or something? Am i seeing a taper on the end of one side of the rings, as if it was meant to overlap the other? (edited) Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 2 Valvebouncer and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted October 28, 2018 Then maybe that one on the Windsor shouldn't overlap at all. Never noticed that gap to be honest. Sure they're not for a +40 engine or something? Am i seeing a taper on the end of one side of the rings, as if it was meant to overlap the other? (edited) Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk I thought of that but id say the depth is out on the oil rings i just shortend 3 up and they fit very well now the problem is there are many different metric ring sets for the 351w and are different to 302 there is also the lightning 150 which has a different set again good the top rings are correctSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted October 31, 2018 I thought of that but id say the depth is out on the oil rings i just shortend 3 up and they fit very well now the problem is there are many different metric ring sets for the 351w and are different to 302 there is also the lightning 150 which has a different set again good the top rings are correctSent from my SM-G570Y using TapatalkMy 351w block is ready at the machine shop and looks good just deciding what colour to paint it the original late 60s blue or dark blue ?Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,284 Posted October 31, 2018 for sale or going in the XF? when you said you were looking for one, i thought it was to use 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted October 31, 2018 for sale or going in the XF? when you said you were looking for one, i thought it was to useNah im keeping this one i have almost sold the roller 302w engine on e bay i have had many offers not far from what i wantSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk 2 NZXD and deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 1, 2018 after weeks of trying to find 5 main bolts that were missing on the block i found some in gc i got 6 for$55 deliverd ,at least now i can start the bottom end ,cam choice im not sure on yet but im not going too big,it will be a hyd roller,and they aint cheap,there are some ford racing grinds that are very popular e303 ect,,, maybe nzxd has some info or what cam did you use on yur xd roller block. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted November 1, 2018 This is very generalized but with more capacity you can get away with a larger cam and still retain perfectly appropriate street manners, you would be better off looking at grinds to suit a 351 rather than a 302 2 Valvebouncer and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 1, 2018 the catolouge said also fits 1994 1997 roller 351w . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted November 1, 2018 the catolouge said also fits 1994 1997 roller 351w .It will fit but you want one to SUIT the 351 2 CHESTNUTXE and Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 1, 2018 any idea on a street cam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted November 1, 2018 any idea on a street cam You need to know what you want from the engine, what heads, comp ratio you would like to run, rocker ratio, gearing, intake manifold, exhaust, what sort of power you are chasing all needs to be selected as one package otherwise you will end up with something that doesn't work very well and will leave you disappointed 3 CHESTNUTXE, Valvebouncer and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 1, 2018 You need to know what you want from the engine, what heads, comp ratio you would like to run, rocker ratio, gearing, intake manifold, exhaust, what sort of power you are chasing all needs to be selected as one package otherwise you will end up with something that doesn't work very well and will leave you disappointed I have heard (and very much agree with) different versions of the same philosophy but basically, choose a camshaft based on what you want and build the rest of the engine around it. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 3 CHESTNUTXE, deankxf and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 1, 2018 hmmm sounds like i need a stock cam as everything else will be stock except i was gunna get a rpm air gap manifold or performer ect dual plane. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,284 Posted November 2, 2018 the other method of choosing(from gemini reading pages and pages of info) is fix the cheapest restrictions until you run out of budget.. so, gemini stock manifold is super crap aparentlly .. extractors fix this fairly cheap.. then better exhaust.. also cheap.. then camshaft/valve springs.. then ignition.. do you have any money left? better carby/intake/porting,compression and bigger cam again.. still want to over capitalize? there's far more from here.. on the windsor.. as Thom has suggested.. Headers.. exhaust.. what's the next crap thing? probably heads?(not sure) got any money left ... nope.. rest is stock then .. 2 Valvebouncer and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 2, 2018 check the thickness of the shank on the bolt compard to the 1994 windsor main bolt,but thread size is the same,also oil rings are snug now after slight sand. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 2, 2018 sparky dave at 3am is going to find what these cast date codes are on the crank im guessing late 1993 ? also the main cap number Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 2, 2018 just looking at the new crank sprocket ,also does anyone know if the 302w bolts are ok for the flywheel like same length ? they seem to fit ok Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted November 4, 2018 This is coming along well. I personally wouldnt be deciding a cam until you have the heads sorted. The windsor heads are the biggest restriction, and the disappointing part is any cast iron windsor head is a restriction on a 302w so it’s worse on a 351, at least get an AU GT40p head or a set of cheaper alloys. Aim for torque rather than higher end HP/Revs. I’d probably use the E303 grind which I think is about 220@50 and .498 lift, crane cams and comp all make a similar grind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Thom, CHESTNUTXE and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted November 4, 2018 Actually you would need to get the head bolt holes enlarged on a AU GT40p head to suit the 1/2 351 head bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 4, 2018 Actually you would need to get the head bolt holes enlarged on a AU GT40p head to suit the 1/2 351 head bolts. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBut what about the $900 headers you need ? Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted November 4, 2018 But what about the $900 headers you need ? Sent from my SM-G570Y using TapatalkA decent set of headers to suit a windsor into X series is going to cost $700 plus anyway. The plug angle on the P heads is a pain but with the right spark plug angle boots you can get away with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,307 Posted November 4, 2018 you mean just the plug boots ,and any windsor headers will fit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 4, 2018 sparky dave at 3am is going to find what these cast date codes are on the crank im guessing late 1993 ? also the main cap number As far as I know, ford small block cranks go like this: 1M - 221/260/2892m - 3023M - 351W4M - 351C5M - 4001K - 351M But they normally appear in isolation, so that 3M21 mark likely has something to do with date. I'm guessing:3 = 1983M = December21 = 21st day The E3AE on the cap is a part number. It means that this part was first produced in 1983. E3 = 1983A = full size passengerE = engine The casting date looks like November 20, 1983 Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 1 Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites