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WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

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you can still use the block and stroke it


Yeah that’s probably what I’ll do, unless a good 289 crank turns up...

The block is JG35, rods C8OE, crank is 2M...so yeah all 302.

Are you running EFI in this little beauty?


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it came with all the efi stuff but i only bought it for a rebuild to keep me busy and a learning curve cause im looking for a 351w engine a late model one to do up for myself,and there aint too much out there ,but not impossible,i intend to sell this one then use the cash and go again on the bigger one or even stroker ,one thing thats been bugging me lately is is there any point building a factory 351w cause ya can get a cheap 5.0 block and buy a 347 kit and almost same cubes ???? but we will see i will keep looking for one.

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Yeah the rule of thumb on a few 5.0 forums is the block we’re good for 500hp at the crank....but in saying that a Australian tuning place on Facebook get 550hp at the wheels with no issues out of the 302 block with boost...also depends on the tune and revs.

The other point was that they didn’t like high rpm, I take mine to 6500 a bit once to 7000 and no issues.

The later 351 roller blocks made in the 1990s split the cam tunnels really bad too.

Maybe it’s just luck of the draw with them.

Turns out that the 289 I scored is a 302, much disappointment.


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Not 100% but I gather that HP figure that everyone bounces around is for an atmo engine, meaning to make that figure, you need to spin it to X rpm, which is what would kill the block (ie: harmonics, balancing stresses, etc.) Boosting makes horsepower without the rpm so actual HP wouldn't be so much of a factor.

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Not 100% but I gather that HP figure that everyone bounces around is for an atmo engine, meaning to make that figure, you need to spin it to X rpm, which is what would kill the block (ie: harmonics, balancing stresses, etc.) Boosting makes horsepower without the rpm so actual HP wouldn't be so much of a factor.

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Yeah you would be right, I have read a few articles where the blocks are ok NA with internal balancing (aftermarket steel cranks etc) and spinning them over 7 grand with no issues, so yeah the harmonics must be the main issues.


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XR GT's revved to 7,000rpm 50 years ago, with 1967 technology. Should definitely be doable today.
The problem with the roller blocks is they are a lighter casting with a higher nickel content, also its mainly strokers that have the problem, with a stock stroke the seem to be able to handle 7500+ for a while but they are a bit of a time bomb more or less
Not my photos but some examples of broken 5.0 blocks
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I think with my current 302 I might just keep leaning on it and see what happens, if it grenades then it’s a good excuse to build it better.

I wanted the 289 for old school high rpm with big alloy heads and the go fast bits.


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My new pack of 4 roller lifters came as 3 or 4 of the old ones are a bit sus but the others seem good

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ignore " most " of the ancillaries ,,
could/should be a lot neater ,,
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Make sure when you install the dog bones the dot faces up otherwise the lifters can rotate destroying the cam in the process
Thom what about which way the lifter goes in as 1 side has a metering hole ?e700a633e45807ff5fca9ecebcc453bb.jpg4d934dac90e46a984bd14bb0434a4fee.jpg

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i cant decide which timing cover to buy ? as i intend on selling this engine,maybe let the buyer decide depending on what car i suppose,but i would say the early one with a fuel pump hole.

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i cant decide which timing cover to buy ? as i intend on selling this engine,maybe let the buyer decide depending on what car i suppose,but i would say the early one with a fuel pump hole.

Unless you put the pump cam on the timing chain there isn’t much point in the old style. You would also need to change the pin on the camshaft to extend out so it can connect with the fuel pump cam.




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Good point nzxd the cam came with no pin so i put one on it to line the timing gear up but i never new it had one for the pump gear ?


Unless you put the pump cam on the timing chain there isn’t much point in the old style. You would also need to change the pin on the camshaft to extend out so it can connect with the fuel pump cam.




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Whats bugging me is this reverse rotation 8 mean 90 % of buyers would stick the engine in an older car so you would want the normal std rotation yeah ?

Good point nzxd the cam came with no pin so i put one on it to line the timing gear up but i never new it had one for the pump gear ?


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If someone could explain the later efi cover will only work with a reverse pump or can a normal pump be bolted to it say for a xw 302w

Whats bugging me is this reverse rotation 8 mean 90 % of buyers would stick the engine in an older car so you would want the normal std rotation yeah ?


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as for mechanical pump, you can still run an older case and run an electric pump. 

 

the serpentine belt wrap is the reason for the reverse rotation ?  (betting a normal pump wont fit)  what makes you think someone with an older car would want a windsor over a clevo? 

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You can buy about 6 different front covers for Windsor’s, ones to suit reverse rotation but has the fuel pump hole, standard with or without fuel pump, ones with the crank angle sensor....mix in match...

My one is standard rotation, with the crank angle sensor and fuel pump boss.



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I spoke to another m8 doing a eb v8 and he tryd a 289 cam gear to fit the 5.o and it dont fit for the fuel cam so he had to modify the factory one

You can buy about 6 different front covers for Windsor’s, ones to suit reverse rotation but has the fuel pump hole, standard with or without fuel pump, ones with the crank angle sensor....mix in match...

My one is standard rotation, with the crank angle sensor and fuel pump boss.



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I spoke to another m8 doing a eb v8 and he tryd a 289 cam gear to fit the 5.o and it dont fit for the fuel cam so he had to modify the factory one


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A few cams come with two different length pins to suit the fuel pump eccentric, most flat tappet and retro fit rollers.

You can buy specific timing chain and gears to suit efi/roller cams and fuel pump eccentrics.

Summit and eBay have all the bits. I learnt all this buy converting mine...brought a few bits twice in my learning...




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Finally the felpro gasket set came just wondering what half of it is used for like 2 sets of intake ,these big funny circles which look like carby spacers and all sorts of stuff


A few cams come with two different length pins to suit the fuel pump eccentric, most flat tappet and retro fit rollers.

You can buy specific timing chain and gears to suit efi/roller cams and fuel pump eccentrics.

Summit and eBay have all the bits. I learnt all this buy converting mine...brought a few bits twice in my learning...




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4161a1741573b7e2fa52de9d648ecf0f.jpg27eaa5a55e49dc311daa016a9f909f49.jpgdb455db5560e4e737abc7c290e6b00ca.jpg

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The inlet manifold gaskets will differ for the water ports , some early 289 are small and some 302 and 351 are different. There will be 2 sets of seals for the block to middle of the inlet manifold. Most importantly, make sure the head gaskets are around the right way!

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The inlet manifold gaskets will differ for the water ports , some early 289 are small and some 302 and 351 are different. There will be 2 sets of seals for the block to middle of the inlet manifold. Most importantly, make sure the head gaskets are around the right way!
Yes vb thats probly why i have the spider n lifters in place i think its right seems to only bolt on 1 wayf4729a7d1f4e05e07a822acb69bb67f4.jpg86a02589d26d477697de38e064014f2b.jpg

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