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CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

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20 hours ago, burnnotice1000 said:

Just looking at stroker cranks and stroke kits to 545 c.i. there is a million different kits available it's very confusing,seems about $2500 is the cheapest version with 4.500 stroke,but you get everything. 545 c.i is the biggest a STD block can take it seems

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Rarely do the kits ever work out . What I found is they are either flat tops or a dish way too big and the compression I was aiming for rarely worked out right .

 

One thing to watch is the balance . I have found the 4.15 & 4.3 strokes work out good . Can internal balance with minimal issue , I.E not lots of mallory metal.

 

If looking to the 545 / 4.5 stroke , the cast cranks can be tricky to balance . Usually the 4.5 stroke the forged crank is a better setup and easier to balance .

 

The 545 is at .030" . It's not uncommon to be able to go .080" in a factory block to make 557 

But keep in mind the bigger the cubes the better the head required  No matter how good the cast iron heads are ported they are still restricted in the short turns 
 

 

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Yeah I got to admit every 460 I have ever seen done the heads got binned in favour of better breathing ones.

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I had to buy a 9/16_12 tap to clean up the head bolt holes I had all the other sizes as I have collected a lot of special ford tools over the years.fe436a6796fdc7fe04302937791f865f.jpg

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I had to buy a 9/16_12 tap to clean up the head bolt holes I had all the other sizes as I have collected a lot of special ford tools over the years.fe436a6796fdc7fe04302937791f865f.jpg

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All done and what is this bridge thing with 2 bolts ?0e707b9716da255cc42c9532830be53d.jpg4b74f11f9ffd97fbbfdf00d4aad8fc37.jpg

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All done and what is this bridge thing with 2 bolts ?0e707b9716da255cc42c9532830be53d.jpg4b74f11f9ffd97fbbfdf00d4aad8fc37.jpg

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Weird, looks like they criss-cross down to the lifter oil galleries. Never see that before. Maybe that's how they get oil from one side to the other?

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Weird, looks like they criss-cross down to the lifter oil galleries. Never see that before. Maybe that's how they get oil from one side to the other?

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Yeah you can forget putting a spider in there

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I got the crank back from sandblasting it's clean ,but is it OK to leave it that raw colour or ?next is to have it machinedca449c366167b1697f6b9d9ed1b85122.jpg872b945193373e249a117d3c329b6cf2.jpg4414e05d46b185b8bd61456a80c92127.jpg

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I would spray it in oil or something for now. Cooking spray works good

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Nice build this.  Lotsa work restoring an old, rusty engine. All the machined surfaced look like they need a skim. Thermostat housing, gasket faces, crank snout etc, etc. 

Still, it's a big block, so why not.!!  I'd try and save money to afford alloy heads and inlet manifold. Very expensive but lose 20 kilos over the front end.?

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yeah not really sure what to do with this one,althou its std bore at least it has something going for it,but a lot of work to make it usable but thats ok,im not working atm so hrs in the garage is what i like,the ozito sand blaster i bought does not do jack shit,maybe cause its only a small tank ,but when i first got it ,it stripped a xd engine bay in no time ? i think its all to do with the correct blasting media,and ya know what after i go to doctor im gunna go to bunnings or somewhere else and get some media to do the rest myself,i already paid the cnts $120 to blast a sump and a crank i reckon thats too much,well they said $60 is the minimum they charge,blasting media is about $30 at bunnings or autobarn but its too fat on the grit,you need something finer.

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yeah not really sure what to do with this one,althou its std bore at least it has something going for it,but a lot of work to make it usable but thats ok,im not working atm so hrs in the garage is what i like,the ozito sand blaster i bought does not do jack shit,maybe cause its only a small tank ,but when i first got it ,it stripped a xd engine bay in no time ? i think its all to do with the correct blasting media,and ya know what after i go to doctor im gunna go to bunnings or somewhere else and get some media to do the rest myself,i already paid the cnts $120 to blast a sump and a crank i reckon thats too much,well they said $60 is the minimum they charge,blasting media is about $30 at bunnings or autobarn but its too fat on the grit,you need something finer.
I didn't buy the media because the guy at trade tools said your compressor is to small so I just tided the manifold up a tad and Tuesday will take it too the pro's,I will get em to blast the bare heads too so I can have something to do,1973 cast on the manifold yet D4 at the front.cdc1ad1842d72dd56903e11f997a0dde.jpg23e17408216e0af396a6fa1d4b6d116d.jpg3f0c671c70b5c477c8181e69d70903d2.jpgb7eede13793ea8c961746cb759e649ff.jpg

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hey these d3ve a2a irons get a good wrap on you tube and other forums ,just some patient work can really arc them up for factory head,the d3ve a2a is the first of the emission heads with a big bump on the exhaust which must be blended at least or removed as it has something to do with emissions,on the intake side they only need a clean up,but the exhaust is choked and needs some nice porting ,even most go the cobra jet exhaust gasket mark it out and start grinding,they are around 92 cc to 97cc and with a sealed power flat top gets you into the 10.1 zone with milling of avarage 30 thou to get zero deck,but the earlier DOVE AND other early cast irons have a closed chamber and an easy 10.5.1 is had but too much if anything these days,factory cobra jet irons are hard to come by even in the states,very interesting all this big block stuff.UJLfvNZ3_o.jpgZXJPyyvM_o.jpgivFVotoo_o.jpgpidNESMC_o.jpg

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I think the hump and the guide would benefit greatly from not being there, the rear of the port I don't think is too bad. Cant be any worse than a Windsor

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Quench heads will deal with higher compression if set up right (zero deck, flat tops, etc) as they keep the mixture moving during combustion. My 302 is at around 10:1 and it's very mild. Only sees a bit of knock when hot and at low rpm/high load.

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wow now we are talking ,looks like that suits std 460 heads,cobra jet are a lot bigger than that im sure,i also learnt from reading heaps of stuff is 90% of the gun aftermarket manifolds only suit cobra jet and super cobra jet,blower manifolds ect,but that one is a good price with carbs.

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Looks like a dual plane design too, would have good torque for the street

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Interesting note some are advertising STD length push rods as 8.550 STD clevo length and some 8.6ish I'm trying to find out the correct length

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A guy on a Facebonk Cleveland group just showed us his his unicorn find... A virgin bore pillow block over in the States, meaning that it was kept there (not sent back here due to core shift) so there's a chance that it's a good one. Has an internally balanced cast crank, 4 bolt mains with studs, painted internally. Could be an unused NASCAR block.44acc14345a59260a3f43c08feb3677a.jpg202a90e37df54657e84584ce6f4dbabe.jpg

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A guy on a Facebonk Cleveland group just showed us his his unicorn find... A virgin bore pillow block over in the States, meaning that it was kept there (not sent back here due to core shift) so there's a chance that it's a good one. Has an internally balanced cast crank, 4 bolt mains with studs, painted internally. Could be an unused NASCAR block.44acc14345a59260a3f43c08feb3677a.jpg202a90e37df54657e84584ce6f4dbabe.jpg

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Yes all those blocks were dipped in that red stuff to stop corrosion b4 sending out and there is your proof still can see the red oxide,lately have also seen many like that one still in the ford cardboard box on temeyer clevo/400 site.

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