CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 11, 2021 Will continue on today with susing out parts to rebuild one good 302 Sent from my SM-G610Y using TapatalkThe black block thats turned out blue is a goer now i really cleaned it up but found out its 030 i new one or 2 of the blocks was oversize as olm8 just threw these ones in and i dropped the crank at the machine shop to get hot tanked and polished i will probly order new pistons as mace eng now do some cheapies at $260 a set and $70 for rings .Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,287 Posted June 11, 2021 would it need new pistons? or is it not much more for new pistons with rings? i never understood the fuss over if it was a 030 etc, if it's good, it's good for 100,000kms at least.. how many clevos are in daily use doing more than 10,000kms a year these days? 2 Free.51 and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 11, 2021 would it need new pistons? or is it not much more for new pistons with rings? i never understood the fuss over if it was a 030 etc, if it's good, it's good for 100,000kms at least.. how many clevos are in daily use doing more than 10,000kms a year these days?Yeah good answer not many im in 2 minds about ridge cutting it as there is a very small lip on the bore or just go 040 over with a new bore n hone as its gunna cost the same piston wise and $$$ to ridge cut it if staying 030 i will take it down to the machine shop and see what he reckons or just lightly wet n dry the lip with wd40 and just a quick hone a few things to think aboutSent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,287 Posted June 11, 2021 8 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said: and $$$ to ridge cut it if staying 030  I haven't seen THIS ONE work below, but i've seen(borrowed) a similar one about 30yrs ago from some engineering mob. it wasn't supported as deep in the bore either. i thought a honing stone kit could be used for removing the ridge also? perhaps @Thom might know if he's got time to reply  https://www.amazon.com.au/Lisle-36500-Ridge-Reamer/dp/B000P0ZK1O/ref=asc_df_B000P0ZK1O/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341791816778&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11513454522436914383&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000567&hvtargid=pla-579453460767&psc=1   2 CHESTNUTXE and Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted June 11, 2021 Just removing the ridge and honing will give you an egg shaped cylinder bore. You'll definitely get blow by. Having said that, If it's just a daily, it would be fine. 3 1 Thom, CHESTNUTXE, deankxf and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 11, 2021 would it need new pistons? or is it not much more for new pistons with rings? i never understood the fuss over if it was a 030 etc, if it's good, it's good for 100,000kms at least.. how many clevos are in daily use doing more than 10,000kms a year these days?Lol.. mine was doing about 25k a year when it was my daily. Should've bought oil shares Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,287 Posted June 11, 2021 1 minute ago, gerg said: Lol.. mine was doing about 25k a year when it was my daily. Should've bought oil shares Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk  i did 80,000km in 2 yrs in mine after reco, changed cars to a 250crossy version.. pros were less tyre wear, less fuel, less stress on hot days and better handling.. cons were the exhaust note missing 2 cyls... that's about all. 3 Free.51, gerg and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 12, 2021 i did 80,000km in 2 yrs in mine after reco, changed cars to a 250crossy version.. pros were less tyre wear, less fuel, less stress on hot days and better handling.. cons were the exhaust note missing 2 cyls... that's about all.Just about pulled apart everthing down to bare blocks and bought a few big containers to put parts in .Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk 3 1 Free.51, deankxf, bear351c and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FORD_MAN 1,026 Posted June 12, 2021 Shame about the 400 block, did read about early blocks cracking. Could be stitched with suitable cast plugs but would take a lot of work for the length of the cracks, I'd say its hard to find someone who can weld cast iron, fading art. I'll admit to my black utes clevo has fair ring ridge and ran it anyway , Thanks for saying about Mace's cheaper pistons, mates std bore clevo has a bit of ring ridge been thinking of getting him to bore to 4.020".  1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 14, 2021 Shame about the 400 block, did read about early blocks cracking. Could be stitched with suitable cast plugs but would take a lot of work for the length of the cracks, I'd say its hard to find someone who can weld cast iron, fading art. I'll admit to my black utes clevo has fair ring ridge and ran it anyway , Thanks for saying about Mace's cheaper pistons, mates std bore clevo has a bit of ring ridge been thinking of getting him to bore to 4.020".  Finally got a set of digital thingos so measured up all the blocks and have 7 standard bore and 1 thirty thou and 1 forty thou , also the crank came back from hot tank and polished now take the block down and see if we stay 030 or go 040 Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,287 Posted June 14, 2021 2 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said: now take the block down and see if we stay 030 or go 040 is there any saving in using the 40thou pistons from the other or is that block still usable also(BGDAV has a clevo with 60thou overbore) 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 14, 2021 is there any saving in using the 40thou pistons from the other or is that block still usable also(BGDAV has a clevo with 60thou overbore)Nah no pistonsSent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 18, 2021 Nah no pistonsSent from my SM-G610Y using TapatalkI need some help on this one,very hard to read but casting date starts with a 9 so i figure this is a xd black block but it has the cf mark not the GF as i thought all black blocks were GF foundry its a jg23 so sedan but late xc or xd ? Its std bore and looks typical of a black block gerg helpSent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 18, 2021 I need some help on this one,very hard to read but casting date starts with a 9 so i figure this is a xd black block but it has the cf mark not the GF as i thought all black blocks were GF foundry its a jg23 so sedan but late xc or xd ? Its std bore and looks typical of a black block gerg helpSent from my SM-G610Y using TapatalkPicSent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 18, 2021 PicSent from my SM-G610Y using TapatalkI can't explain why it has the old Cleveland foundry marks if it's a locally cast one. The date stamp to me looks like 9A31. I forget how that breaks down, perhaps 1979, A shift of 31st week? (no time to research just now) but looking purely at the paint, there's no sign of any blue under that black so it's likely a factory black. Another giveaway is dizzy drive hole, which you could measure if you have a dizzy handy (ie: go or no-go)Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk 2 deankxf and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,287 Posted June 18, 2021 9 minutes ago, gerg said: . Another giveaway is dizzy drive hole, which you could measure if you have a dizzy handy (ie: go or no-go) that's all i'd have done.. grab a points dissy.. nope ok, black block 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 18, 2021 i measured it with the new digitalis and couldnt get a good reading it was changing everytime i measured it,it came up .430 to 400 the later is smaller shaft i just dont have atm,or any dizzy ftm,but its std bore and has a light lip rash ,so after cleaning 3 blocks we now know their cond atleast b4 chuxing money at them. 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 18, 2021 33 minutes ago, gerg said: I can't explain why it has the old Cleveland foundry marks if it's a locally cast one. The date stamp to me looks like 9A31. I forget how that breaks down, perhaps 1979, A shift of 31st week? (no time to research just now) but looking purely at the paint, there's no sign of any blue under that black so it's likely a factory black. Another giveaway is dizzy drive hole, which you could measure if you have a dizzy handy (ie: go or no-go) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk  ok its a jg23xs which breaks down to nov 80 xd sedan build with cast date on the block sometime in late 1979 ,so i guess its a black block 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 18, 2021 that's all i'd have done.. grab a points dissy.. nope ok, black blockI think it's the other way around Deano ie: electronic one fits: black blockWon't shove in the hole: Blue block.  Edit: no I just realised I got that completely wrong. Carry on   Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk   1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,287 Posted June 18, 2021 1 minute ago, gerg said: I think it's the other way around Deano ie: electronic one fits: black block Won't shove in the hole: Blue block. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk  points dissy shaft is thicker. we had one ground down for a mates black XD engine about 25yrs ago 2 CHESTNUTXE and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 18, 2021 I think it's the other way around Deano ie: electronic one fits: black blockWon't shove in the hole: Blue block.  Edit: no I just realised I got that completely wrong. Carry on   Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk   Many have shoved a late dizzy in a old block and didn't no it will do the shimmy in the hole,including me a few thousand kms later its toast.Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 19, 2021 points dissy shaft is thicker. we had one ground down for a mates black XD engine about 25yrs agoMany have shoved a late dizzy in a old block and didn't no it will do the shimmy in the hole,including me a few thousand kms later its toast. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk Yeah other than on here, it's hard to find an oz-specific topic on this that is 100% accurate, but I did see something on ICE ignition's site about the smaller shaft being used on the earlier blocks, and they say that with theirs it doesn't matter as they have a lower needle bearing. This, they say eliminates the need for support by the drilling in the block (so their dizzys work on both), and also if the block is actually the right size but worn, that doesn't matter either.  Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk   1 1 CHESTNUTXE and deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 19, 2021 Yeah other than on here, it's hard to find an oz-specific topic on this that is 100% accurate, but I did see something on ICE ignition's site about the smaller shaft being used on the earlier blocks, and they say that with theirs it doesn't matter as they have a lower needle bearing. This, they say eliminates the need for support by the drilling in the block (so their dizzys work on both), and also if the block is actually the right size but worn, that doesn't matter either.  Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk   Another way of telling a factory engine is the rope a dope oil seal,also check this weird ford dove pressing or sticker ?Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 19, 2021 Another way of telling a factory engine is the rope a dope oil seal,also check this weird ford dove pressing or sticker ?Sent from my SM-G610Y using TapatalkOk well thar she is cleaned up a bit now looks like a very good core i always remove the oil plugs x5 and core plugs just to make sure its not too rusty in there and this one is fine the 1980xd black block ok lets dig the next one out and sus it outSent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk 1 1 Outback Jack and deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,310 Posted June 19, 2021 next one is interesting a 1976 LTD JG71 factory 351c ,std bore light surface rust in bores and valley,i will just give it a tidy up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites