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CHESTNUTXE

CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

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For once im on the opposite side of the argument from bear and gerg, personally I like to put a fresh engine on the dyno as soon as possible, the dyno can be used as a tool to properly bed rings in quicker and easier than it can be to do it on the street, also you can get your carb and ignition tuning correct usually with less trial and error than street tuning in the first few 100ks
I just went with this plot and seems to be fine atm 94fc1d7c1185205d42bd1d7f6b8a88f4.jpg

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For once im on the opposite side of the argument from bear and gerg, personally I like to put a fresh engine on the dyno as soon as possible, the dyno can be used as a tool to properly bed rings in quicker and easier than it can be to do it on the street, also you can get your carb and ignition tuning correct usually with less trial and error than street tuning in the first few 100ks

I do agree somewhat with what you say Thom, in that although you shouldn't thrash it, importantly you don't baby it either. I do think that a tune on a fresh engine might be a bit different from a tune on a nice loose one.

 

In any case, a dyno run-in is a good way to bed an engine in a controlled environment, with all the vitals being monitored closely. However a tight engine will be down on power slightly and isn't a proper indication of its actual output once bedded, so given my experiences, an actual power run isn't really relevant until that happens.

 

I remember first tank of juice on my fresh 302 got 30 litres per hundred, must have been working hard just turning itself. These days with 80k on board, I get in the mid to high teens.

 

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about 13 at idle and 32 max by 3000
That's a good start, but you really need to hook up the MAP sensor to get the most out of that MSD. You're really only using half the potential of what it can do otherwise.

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That's a good start, but you really need to hook up the MAP sensor to get the most out of that MSD. You're really only using half the potential of what it can do otherwise.

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It is hooked up but i cant work out what yur going on about

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It is hooked up but i cant work out what yur going on about

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See its hooked up but now what ? It says default is 1 bar for n/a engines i think we have been thru this b4 but now what ? Load the msd disc and go to boost retard and plot a reverse graph ? But how do you figure it out my timing is 32 total by 3000 so what would you do now ?8f341174117f32a1e05de70a34d7cde6.jpg24225c5c2fced20877b6d9d022f1eaf4.jpg91be7e13cab2bbb3b0994f5cce98c82a.jpg

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It acts like a vac advance in reverse ie: it takes timing out under load, allowing more to be dialled in to start with.

You would have it start at 0 deg retard and ramp it down starting at about 9 psi. Take the ramp down to about 8 degrees at about 12 psi and level it out all the way to 15. That's a good start, you then go and advance your dizzy by the amount you took out on this curve to get to the same as you had before under load (you said it felt pretty happy there) the difference now is that you have more at idle and cruise. It will make for a much happier cruiser.

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It acts like a vac advance in reverse ie: it takes timing out under load, allowing more to be dialled in to start with.

You would have it start at 0 deg retard and ramp it down starting at about 9 psi. Take the ramp down to about 8 degrees at about 12 psi and level it out all the way to 15. That's a good start, you then go and advance your dizzy by the amount you took out on this curve to get to the same as you had before under load (you said it felt pretty happy there) the difference now is that you have more at idle and cruise. It will make for a much happier cruiser.

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Now the first crank to me looks like a xb to xe 351 c crank with the ar number and bold 351 cast onto it bf0876d7029de64592e08376cb52b4d0.jpg7d34bba7bfebc920b6ef2c0912700beb.jpg81d82ca0c17e888d3fe9d2c5b709e4b9.jpg

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Looking up close, that really needs a grind. I thought ARD1AE might be XB-XC era, seeing as they changed the Aussie numbering system after XC so the year came first (ie: "76DA", etc) but then again so few 351s came out in XC-XD-XE that they could have just used cranks from the same inventory all the way to the end. I have a very rusty 4MA crank that looks like it might be an early US casting.

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Looking up close, that really needs a grind. I thought ARD1AE might be XB-XC era, seeing as they changed the Aussie numbering system after XC so the year came first (ie: "76DA", etc) but then again so few 351s came out in XC-XD-XE that they could have just used cranks from the same inventory all the way to the end. I have a very rusty 4MA crank that looks like it might be an early US casting.

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Next one is 4ma B always a debate between 4ma and 4ma B some us forums say the B is for brinel hardness test and always other theories but ford did use the 4ma B in high performance applications 7334cfbc4ca2792fb9fd47f0caf84760.jpg33b6dd7e8508a38c24ac8862c9d2dda2.jpg

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Umm err probly as 10 million people wanted to buy them ,but any early cleveland gear especially 1970 is tresured as rods were tripple cheese burgerd and selected .

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On 5/7/2020 at 5:26 PM, bear351c said:

for sure, but its all the other stuff that breaks at 7 grand. LMAO...Valves pop their heads off, rocker studs pull out of the heads, pushrods end up a funny Z shape...

 

Three of my pushrods, ended up a funny Z shape, just from starting it... 😅

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Three of my pushrods, ended up a funny Z shape, just from starting it...
Scored this 4 barrel intake for $30 it will come up good with a clean even tho its the ugly duckling of clevo 4 barrels 76da 302c intake but i have used them on 351c and work fine on std engine my sandblaster should clean this up great, just the vaccum tree is worth $30 78b0b3bd0f682a480706595de8ff77da.jpg

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On 1/31/2020 at 9:18 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

So what is the go when trying to find the correct Speedo gear for say 2.92 ? The black spiral thing is the big gear i guess ? I also managed to get the navy seal out5e509ac0ffd537ca15395b5ca41ab291.jpg7b203eae9547515a65f06b24749f4dda.jpgc59b13a8626b717a83aae639fde5f115.jpg

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i have been looking for this picture for weeks ,see the little black drive gear on the shaft what count is it ? maybe 6 cause with 2.92 my speedo using orange 20 is out big time,at 100kph it reads 74kph,i was under the impreesion i had a 8 driven gear but now i doubt it,there is a bigger blown up picture a few pages back.

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The worm drive, looks like it's machined into the output shaft, on that transmission?

I'd try a driven gear with less teeth, to speed it up?

 

Driven Gear Teeth =

Drive Gear Teeth x Gear Ratio x Tyre Revolutions per mile, divided by 1001.

 

Tyre Revolutions per mile = 20,168 divided by Tyre Diameter in Inches 

 

Tyre Diameter in Inches = (section width x aspect ratio divided by 2540x2 + Wheel Diameter

Example -

225 x 60/2540 x2  + 15

= 25.63

 

20,168 / 25.63 = 786.89

 

Example -

Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions)

Gear ratio = 2.92:1

Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89

Divide by 1001

 

6 x 2.92 x 786.89 / 1001

= 13.77 Teeth

 

Smallest you can get is 16teeth I think?

So it will probably be out about 10km/hr, but heaps better.

 

 

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This is where it dont make sense i had 3.45 before with same 20 orange and was  not far off correct only 10km out dash reading 90kph at 100kph 

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1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

This is where it dont make sense i had 3.45 before with same 20 orange and was  not far off correct only 10km out dash reading 90kph at 100kph 

 

Example -

Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions)

Gear ratio = 3.45:1

Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89

Divide by 1001 

 

6 x 3.45 x 786.89 / 1001

= 16.27 Teeth 

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