Jump to content
CHESTNUTXE

CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

Recommended Posts

yeah i have bought heaps of that bloke,might be worth a shot bear,or maybe even try to remove it very gently with warm water like let it soak for a day in soapy water ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

im on the phone to orlando florida in 20 mins when dearborn classics open,they do everything re pro that has ever been made,but here is the six million dollar question in their catolouge there is no such thing as a 1971 400 emissions sticker wtf ? could this be the unicorn engine ? sent out the back door to australia ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hmmm i just spoke mr expert on 400 engines from america and he says they have never heard of a 400 1971 engine sticker ???????????????????????????????????????????????,this is getting weird man,he suggests getting on a 1971 galaxie forum and ask guys who have the same 400 cars so i will try that tomorrow🤔

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hmmm i just spoke mr expert on 400 engines from america and he says they have never heard of a 400 1971 engine sticker ???????????????????????????????????????????????,this is getting weird man,he suggests getting on a 1971 galaxie forum and ask guys who have the same 400 cars so i will try that tomorrow
Spoke to another galaxi forum and he said same thing ipossible to get ?

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi-res photo of the sticker, as flat as possible in orientation. Measure for size and include the measurements in the photo you send. Make sure they're the right sort, eg metric or imperial.

 

Surely that will get you sorted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi-res photo of the sticker, as flat as possible in orientation. Measure for size and include the measurements in the photo you send. Make sure they're the right sort, eg metric or imperial.
 
Surely that will get you sorted.
Update i managed to clean up the sticker a bit plus scrub someones attempt to brush some paint on the covers and i think i can save the sticker and just paint around it also with a new hyd cam what sought of dizzy gear do i need ?03737b10b32b446c7858cba376350686.jpg8d2ac3b457b3e5756a00b84a13a43367.jpg

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Most hyd cams will just need a standard cast gear. Check with the manufacturer though. 
I worked hard and cleaned the covers without wrecking the sticker also interesting note waterpump was replaced with 1977 cf foundry item at one stage and alt was stamped 1976 3bdf2d07e805202128b9f0f4cf4c52de.jpg479a3afdb8370da01154f02eccaa3dc0.jpgf69ec82d72bfef312d2f3099169314c0.jpgf1f6a4caefddbc0303bad19c061437d4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i just had a look but same buisness no 1971 d1ae sticker for a 400 ,i joined a few other forums just to find out what is going on and they said the same thing it doesnt exist,ive got a feeling that the car was imported to australia because our emissions were still all leaded fuel,but it dont make sense it wasnt until 1973 the yanks started using unleaded,today i spent many hours hot tanking parts with a makeshift bucket of degreaser ,and seems to be doing the job,i garantee the valve seats will be for leaded fuel but i will get the machine shop to test them,not that thats a worry cause you can run valve saver ,i have just about cleaned all the valves ,exhausts are pretty clean,but intakes are caked with grit,but cleaning up ok,i also cleaned the original valve springs which to my surprise were white ?? im also thinking of retro fitting it with a hyd roller cam ,just a small one with linkbar lifters or get the machine shop to drill the 2 holes needed for the spider i think the linkbar way is the way to go but not cheap as roller cams are a fair bit of coin ,or just fit a small crow 21890 hyd and be done with it,other guys on another forum swear by this cam for a stock to mild 400,also i spoke to a bloke who said buy the weiand manifold as it was desighed for the 400 as the edelbrock just had its runners extended from a std 351 manifold,my pistons are on the way from america and should be here soon ,then i can do the set up and see how far down the hole they are,im really looking forward to doing this but im gunna need some help from you guys ,so if i use the open large chamber heads how far down should the deck height be from the piston ? Jy4ojM5n_o.jpg0Adgb0qc_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey mate good progress.

 

If you're going with the open chambers you want the piston as close to the deck as possible while achieving desired compression, up to about 10:1 or so.

 

Good info on the intake and camshaft, I'd also recommend the Elgin E-907-P I had in my 351, similar to the Crow you mention just a bit more meat. That thing just pulled everywhere and was a hoot to drive, decent economy as well.

 

Here's a link:

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELGIN-Performance-Camshaft-E-907-P-for-Ford-351C-351M-400-V8-505-505/263326307722?epid=227443570&hash=item3d4f78958a:g:KP0AAOSwqhlc-nEZ&frcectupt=true

 

 - boingk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

is that a roller or hyd ? picture is roller

 

Generic picture, the actual cam is a hydraulic flat tappet. I used the standard cheap Elgin replacement lifters, too, worked just fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

also i was gunna buy the 5/16 t0 7/16 studs that screw into the pederstal then fit roller rockers,pro comp do a real cheap set ,or just go the std stamped steel rocker kit .its about the same price.i am also on the phone to usa atm about some special engine mounts for a 400 into our chassis plates.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey mate I ran standard (fresh) springs and rockers for my camshaft and it was fine. Its nothing massive, about equivalent to the 'states 351C Boss Mustang motor actually. The ramps on that particular cam are very gentle, too, at 310 degrees advertised for 219@50 so probably nothing more than about 110lb spring closed and 280ish open. I think that is about what they recommend, too. I wouldn't go roller unless you want to mess with the ratio or you have to buy some anyway.

 

Retainers I'd be tempted to go aftermarket, even a cheap set would probably be better than old stuff. Match the diameter to your springs and you're good to go. Mind you, you could temper the original ones.... hmm...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey mate I ran standard (fresh) springs and rockers for my camshaft and it was fine. Its nothing massive, about equivalent to the 'states 351C Boss Mustang motor actually. The ramps on that particular cam are very gentle, too, at 310 degrees advertised for 219@50 so probably nothing more than about 110lb spring closed and 280ish open. I think that is about what they recommend, too. I wouldn't go roller unless you want to mess with the ratio or you have to buy some anyway.
 
Retainers I'd be tempted to go aftermarket, even a cheap set would probably be better than old stuff. Match the diameter to your springs and you're good to go. Mind you, you could temper the original ones.... hmm...
I cleaned up 1 head near perfect probly get the machine shop to just give them a skim valves were all in gc but do i need to lap them in cause they went back in the same holes8a2189c2dc903d2918ab5ae3aff51833.jpg294dc51d5a57b88e27c334e17b360a9f.jpg6f6d0c54496e940392de0f0aa80496cf.jpgcbba02b1648ae9eb52b52e7d69c9838c.jpg3299d4980060a935458444130849f3c0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your getting machine shop to skim the heads get them go over valves and check if they in spec. Do it right the first time it’s not like these engines are sitting in every wrecking yard in australia.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Extra note lapping valves is great but not if the guides or seat are stuffed.
I sent a head recently for look over which I picked up for nothing that looked great that had a reco from gem reconditioners (think that’s the place)sometime with low kms. Intake valves were okay just need little work on seats and angle but the exhaust valve stems had a mix of worn valve stems and seats. A typical once over close to spec and slapped together reconditioned and sold to the public.Ask them to do it right for me after check


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Extra note lapping valves is great but not if the guides or seat are stuffed.
I sent a head recently for look over which I picked up for nothing that looked great that had a reco from gem reconditioners (think that’s the place)sometime with low kms. Intake valves were okay just need little work on seats and angle but the exhaust valve stems had a mix of worn valve stems and seats. A typical once over close to spec and slapped together reconditioned and sold to the public.Ask them to do it right for me after check


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The valves have very little play but your right i will get olm8 to put the bearing blue and chex em i might even still use 2v closed and use these valves i no he has a few sets down there

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The water pump is from a 77 truck (D7TE)

Don't go near the Procomp roller rockers. The risk of one letting go and spraying needle rollers through the engine is just not worth it.

Rockers are something you simply can't skimp on... I'm a massive tightarse but was fortunate enough to have (nearly) a set of Scorpions donated to me by my brother. If I had to buy my own, it would have been them or Steet Terras, despite them being triple the price of ProChumps.

If you can't splash out for USA or Oz made rollers, you'll be better off with stockers, especially if only going with mild springs. Just use a good quality zinc oil with them.

The hardened seats will add a lot to the cost of recoing the heads. Seriously, get all of the quotes for the work needed and weigh up if a set of Edelbrock alloys are something you can stretch to. Mine were $1150 for new K-lines where needed, head service, shave 0.025, and machine guide tops for press-on seals. I supplied springs and retainers, so total cost would be around $1500 for everything, and mine already had hardened seats and good valves. If you need them, that's getting up towards 2 grand.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well i can buy a set of the yella terra ones bolt on with pushrod adj i have had 2 sets of these b4 and to be hoonest they are worth every cent,and life time warranty,i was talking on another forum thismorn to guys that worship 400s and and he said using the aftermarket pistons could be up to 80thou down the hole,so i need assistance gerg on what to do if i fit the the 78.8cc heads should i shave em a bit plus shave the block to the shithouse but what would be a good spot for the piston like how far down the hole 010 ? and if i use the closed chamber 2vs i guess really wont need to shave them or maybe just a surface and how far down the hole with them or zero deck it ? i guess around 9.1.1 or a bit bigger just around 10.1.1 ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×