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As far as I recall, the XD became the first "Metric" blocks, (5.8 instead of 351), and they changed to electronic ignition, and used a metric diameter dizzy. Not much else changed inside though, all the journals were still Imperial, I reckon.
 
typical Clevo issue, cracked manifolds......Custom headers are gonna be expensive, maybe find yourself a good welding company. Can be fixed, but needs some experience.
I just found something interesting i dont think this motor had power steering look at the 2 holes that were never used for a bracket i got up early and spoke to some usa info and there were different waterpumps for a/c and non steer but that can wait as the block is going down to the hot tank 562c496cdad7eb2178553c891af42bb5.jpg336f7aef82a6cf938d27306668ebbfb4.jpg

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ok olm8 checked the pistons and they are 1 thou under,and the block is 7 thou ware,so in his opinion we need to buy new pistons grrrrrrrr,so i will start the hunt for some 030 from america ,they are cheap as shit with a ring kit,but will have the larger dish so either put some 302 heads on it or mill the original ones ,its only gunna be a mild stocker and i cant see spending 800 bux on a set of tmeyer ones,maybe if i keep hunting on american e bay i might be able to find some old oversize factory pistons maybe so thats the update.JsJhEU8B_o.jpggSguIMFJ_o.jpgD90t0vJa_o.jpg

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302 heads sound the goods, but beware of what the comp height is, plus gasket thickness, dish and head cc. Make sure you do your homework, especially with a torque cam that has big cylinder pressure in the midrange. If the piston top is anything more than 10 below deck, consider it open chamber and reduce target compression accordingly.

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gerg are you saying mill the deck to zero with bigger dish pistons and with closed 302 's ? ,or maybe use our 351 heads which are around 72 cc,and mill them 40 thou ??? would bump it up as well ? i have seen the cheaper pistons are 1.630 comp height.

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I reckon get your pistons, dummy them up without rings, check deck clearance and see if the deck needs skimming. It will involve multiple trips to the machine shop (or just getting them to do it all while it's there) but if you go zero deck you may well be in the danger zone with compression on a 58cc chamber, depending on the dish of those new pistons you mentioned. You can get in the ballpark if you already know the deck height of the pistons by calculating.

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Yep, do the math. Easiest way is to chuck it together with crank, liberally lubed bearings and a piston, then measure the height to the deck surface when at TDC for that cylinder.

 

Then measure the deck height for that piston. Then compare it to the one you are looking at. Now calculate the rest and you're good.

 

If you don't have a calculator for it I'd highly recommend an app called 'Virtual Dyno', the icon is a black-faced tach with a yellow bar at the bottom. Its about $1 but works nicely. Its modelled off the desktop 'Dyno 2000' with a few tweaks by the creator to get it closer to real-world results.

 

If you don't want to do that just PM me and I'll have a shot for you.

 

 - boingk

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1st thing is just get the block cleaned and make sure its not cracked ,olm8 reckons its pretty good from just a first look,but no rush ,i gave him the old cam to dummy fit to make sure the cam bearings are right,but i have total faith in him,he has done all my engines.

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ok i worked out that the heads are the humungas 78.8cc D1AE A 2V'S,but our heads are around 72cc and with  a light shave of the block and mill the 72cc heads 040 might be a better option if using the cheaper dish pistons,i found a good set from sealed power with rings for bugger all landed $270 ? 

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Sorry just re-read your post, it's not 040 off the bore, it's off the deck.

You can calculate the resulting CCs from removing 0.040 from the deck on a 4" bore. Convert to CCs from cubic inches, then subtract that from your total combustion volume.

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yeah im catching on quick here ,i was just reading similar builds on usa ford websites and even 060 is common on the 400 but i am going 030,to be 408,im just gunna have a peak at summitts kieth black 400 pistons .

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There just could be an easier option just fkn order the 8/71 dyers blower drive kit from america 😂 cause it will be low comp without touching anything ,and put that scott inj hat on it,wait where is my credit card.

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From experience, go the lowest overbore you can. You never know what you'll run into, and if there's a core shift or thin wall, or even a casting defect you'll be better off the less material you remove.

 

If the bore is 7-ish over and the pistons 1 under you'll get 4 thou wall clearance. Sure, its not ideal, but you could easily do a light hone and chuck it back together with new rings and bearings.

 

If you want to keep it I'd see if they do a 20 over piston. If thats an option see what they do in the basic rebuilders specials and go from there. Like you said before, even if they have a dish on them we have the luxury of the magic 302C head to help boost compression.

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Also, if you're looking at pistons... you know the 351C is almost identical, right? The 400 has a 0.9753 pin and the 351C has a 0.912" pin. You could get the rod bushed, or have the piston reamed to the right size. May end up cheaper than a crazy bespoke set - ask your machinist.

 

Like this thing: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPEED-PRO-020-FLAT-TOP-HYPEREUTECTIC-PISTONS-SPH555CP-020-SUIT-FORD-351C-V8/162024943750?epid=868136172&hash=item25b9707086:g:xA0AAOSwbeBdVfhV:sc:AU_StarTrackExpress!2880!AU!-1&frcectupt=true

 

The comp height is 1.645 as well, which would help. Most of the cheaper ones for the 400 seem to have a 1.630 height.

 

 - boingk

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yeah i have bought many of those speed pro flat tops b4,they are a good piston for the money ,but its food for thought,olm8 already has a set of forged flat tops for a 351c at the shop he would give them to me for a song probly ,but buy the time they are converted and 100 bux an hour labour its just not worth it.

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38 minutes ago, Boingk said:

From experience, go the lowest overbore you can. You never know what you'll run into, and if there's a core shift or thin wall, or even a casting defect you'll be better off the less material you remove.

 

If the bore is 7-ish over and the pistons 1 under you'll get 4 thou wall clearance. Sure, its not ideal, but you could easily do a light hone and chuck it back together with new rings and bearings.

 

If you want to keep it I'd see if they do a 20 over piston. If thats an option see what they do in the basic rebuilders specials and go from there. Like you said before, even if they have a dish on them we have the luxury of the magic 302C head to help boost compression.

interesting note a 400 is actually a 402.

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ok i orderd the pistons,usual story ahh we dont know the cc size just whats on the add,i wish these huge companys would employ cnts that know their product,any way edelbrock make this other nice manifold 3371 looks even better than the weiand one imo,comes with 2 or 4 barrel egr plate but we dont need that,i also found a very rare offenhauser portosonic with split runners from a source in the usa,it looks like the beefiest thing you have ever seen but very expensive,the normal edelbrock looks ok too,i wonder do they do the 400 manifols in the black or endurashine ? i havent found that info yet.

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The Offy port-o-sonic was different from the dual port, but looks the same from the outside. The port-o-sonic was a single plane, low profile design that relied on plenum volume, not runner length from carby, to distribute fuel evenly. It looks wrong but some reported good results. A dual plane Eddy performer would still out-do it.

The Offy dual-port was a very interesting concept that didn't quite work. It was an attempt to create a dual mode high velocity/high flow design (in the smog era) by separating the primaries from the secondaries via a double-decker single plane design. It had the lower (primary) half of the manifold connected to the bottom portion of each split port, which was about half as big as the top portion. Low rpm, high velocity ports were supposed to allow better atomisation, then when the secondaries opened up, full flow from the top of each port would allow decent performance. Another aspect; the bottom half would be hotter from the oil vapour coming up from the engine, also promoting atomisation, and the top half would be insulated by the bottom.

Unfortunately, it didn't catch on. The split in the ports was too restrictive for performance, ok they could be cut back and smoothed but even then it was only reasonable. Also in some designs (like the clevo), the front 4 cylinders starved due to the tight passages on the secondary side trying to get past the primary bores.

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And there was a 352 in the FE series, same bore/stroke as the clevo/Windsor

The 5.0 is actually 4949cc, so it misses out by 1cc when you round it off, hence 4.9 is more accurate. If you talk about a 4.9 Ford in the states, they think you mean the 300 six.

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And there was a 352 in the FE series, same bore/stroke as the clevo/Windsor

The 5.0 is actually 4949cc, so it misses out by 1cc when you round it off, hence 4.9 is more accurate. If you talk about a 4.9 Ford in the states, they think you mean the 300 six.

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I have been busy all morning cleaning parts for a look at numbers , the timing cover is pitted slightly but not the worse one i have ever seen also can this nice factory dizzy be converted to electronic and run my msd 6al thru it ? Or just a buy a msd dizzy,also what dizzy gear would i need to fix this autolite with a crow hyd cam ?994911607ba0981cc1c1889681070019.jpg35542e381a155bac7fc9ac816620ea2b.jpg3a13afce5eff98dc4c044bc02ed5ef78.jpg9bf2919cb0673a261afa98a93d95b9df.jpg6a805cb38f9f8e668b9afb017321640e.jpge6c5825f5ab4ccbcd7352da58ce05d86.jpg

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i just like the look of an original motor with big blue air cleaner n power by ford rocker covers,i worked hard all day making a witches brew to clean all parts,and fully pulled apart 1 head and found 1 valve very hard to get out but got it out in the end,i also flushed the sump that was full of chewed dizzy gear,will take heads ,sump,rocker covers to machine shop to hot tank,i think i will just stick with the factory heads as its numbers matching ,just get them machined a bit and 030 pistons i orderd thismorning will bump it up a tad plus machining of the block will help too,later maybe can put a nice set of alloys on it with smaller chamber.only thing im worried about is this original d1ae rocker cover sticker i have trolled usa sites for one but havent been able to find one yet,i have a 1973 orange one only cost minimal coin,but i dont want to hot tank the cover and wreck the sticker i will persist in trying to find one if not will just be carfull and clean around it ,mask it up or something .slTLB4ge_o.jpgUcH16p6P_o.jpgFAKunctI_o.jpgwoiCZt6Y_o.jpgUQ5YqV07_o.jpgcBSLMWJH_o.jpgtgE26dEv_o.jpgP7z7JHIG_o.jpg

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