2redrovers 21,372 Posted January 17, 2020 yup thats it i have this idea of putting the 400 in the back of a xc wagon with a concord front end with the scott injector hat just protruding thru the crome roof racks,with the number plate 2VMAX,just a set of concrete plans I've set in motion.... Do it son... For the good of the nation!! 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 17, 2020 gerg maybe you can find out this engine number so we can find auctally what car it came out of,i is supposed to be a galaxie but 2 door 4 door ? AG62MK88548S stamped on front of block.Only some of it seems to make sense going off what I found. The first digit should be number "1" (meaning 71), the G means Chicago plant and the 62 refers to an LTD 2 door. The "MK" I have no clue, the number is a serial number and the "S" means 400, but the site I found was a bit vague.http://www.tpocr.com/fordvin11.htmlSent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 17, 2020 at least its out of a coupe,ltd ? olm8 who sold it too me said it came out of a galaxie ? but there is many variants of 4 and 2 door gals and ltds ect,with all soughts of engine fittments,from 302 to 460 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 17, 2020 at least its out of a coupe,ltd ? olm8 who sold it too me said it came out of a galaxie ? but there is many variants of 4 and 2 door gals and ltds ect,with all soughts of engine fittments,from 302 to 460Todays effort saw me trying to get all right bank head bolts unstuck it took hours of heating banging and even snapping a socket after hours of trying i got them off and chex the c6 out it came off easy and look at the 50 years of crud on the pistonsSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 17, 2020 i also saw a thing on a hagerty rebuild to nock the lifters down out of the block not to damage the lifter bores ,as they dont want to come out easy from the top ,tomorrow will take the timing cover plate off ,timing chain and cam,also will try to find the dizzy gear which has come off the dizzy shaft lets hope it hasnt fkd anything,but engine does spin smoothly. 1 Boingk reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 17, 2020 Looking good mate, and yeah always punt them down into the block when you can. The mushroomed edges (even on a microscopic level) will mar the lifter bores. Â I use old pushrods and a plastic mallet, seems to do the trick pretty well. Â Â - boingk 4 CHESTNUTXE, bear351c, Thom and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 17, 2020 I know you're pulling it down completely, but if doing a cam swap in chassis, there is a trick I came up with to get the lifters out without dropping them in the sump. I first held the lifters away from the cam with good old clothes pegs. Pulled the old cam out, then got a 40mm PVC pipe and sliced it in half to make it into sort of like a long tray that goes down the lifter bore to catch the lifters, letting them go one at a time. I pulled each one out individually so as to not let them interfere with each other as I pulled the pipe through.You have to do this 16 times but it's still better than jacking up the engine and pulling the sump off to catch an escaped lifter.Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 17, 2020 I know you're pulling it down completely, but if doing a cam swap in chassis, there is a trick I came up with to get the lifters out without dropping them in the sump. I first held the lifters away from the cam with good old clothes pegs. Pulled the old cam out, then got a 40mm PVC pipe and sliced it in half to make it into sort of like a long tray that goes down the lifter bore to catch the lifters, letting them go one at a time. I pulled each one out individually so as to not let them interfere with each other as I pulled the pipe through.You have to do this 16 times but it's still better than jacking up the engine and pulling the sump off to catch an escaped lifter.Sent from my CPH1903 using TapatalkThe long way around things is always 100% worth it and works everytime rather than fk itSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 17, 2020 The long way around things is always 100% worth it and works everytime rather than fk itSent from my SM-G570Y using TapatalkI was right even b4 i stripped it down the dizzy gear got Chewbaccad check the chunks in the pick up screen but all seems good thou i guess the engine cut off instantly when the dizzy gear would not fire the plugs so thats the mystery solved i think plus chain came off easily plenty of stretch Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 17, 2020 I was right even b4 i stripped it down the dizzy gear got Chewbaccad check the chunks in the pick up screen but all seems good thou i guess the engine cut off instantly when the dizzy gear would not fire the plugs so thats the mystery solved i think plus chain came off easily plenty of stretch Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk4 pistons out and cyl walls look good with minor lip i would say maybe medium mileage but it gets better gerg is gunna love this check the factory notch for bigger valves typical early cleveland castingSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk 2 1 Boingk, bear351c and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted January 18, 2020 Fuck....... that chain is barely engaged on the teeth of the timing gear.! One backfire, and she was toast.  Good news on the internals being reasonable, at least it hasn't been thrashed, and left to rot with a bent 'rod, or worse. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 18, 2020 Fuck....... that chain is barely engaged on the teeth of the timing gear.! One backfire, and she was toast.  Good news on the internals being reasonable, at least it hasn't been thrashed, and left to rot with a bent 'rod, or worse.By 12 i had the whole engine disassembled and inspected but couldnt get a correct reading on head cc also the conrod bolts seem bigger than a normal cleveland maybe ?Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 18, 2020 some interesting stampings DÂ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 18, 2020 Loving the D. Â 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 18, 2020 I wonder why they notched the bore.... Maybe they had bigger plans for this series engine (ie 4V heads, etc) maybe a Boss 400?Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 18, 2020 I wonder why they notched the bore.... Maybe they had bigger plans for this series engine (ie 4V heads, etc) maybe a Boss 400?Sent from my CPH1903 using TapatalkCamshaft has some numbers but its toast i would say ,also the first cam bearing is fkd and i cleaned 1 piston just for a look and its in pretty good shape note 4hundy stamped also check the size of the counterweight thats is humungasSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 18, 2020 1 hour ago, gerg said: I wonder why they notched the bore.... Maybe they had bigger plans for this series engine (ie 4V heads, etc) maybe a Boss 400? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk  gerg here is your answer,ford wanted a 400 size engine,because chev had one and wanted something inbetween the 351 and the 460,if you look closely you can see 2 casting bosses that are identical to the normal cleveland and windsor mounts,but they are undrilled,because they used the bottom of the normal cleveland in the mould but ford liked doing weird things and the other side only 1 undrilled boss is there and not the other one which to this day is still a mystery,there is only 1 holy grail 400 that has both sides drilled to fit normal cleveland mounts and is highly sought after even in the usa,i thought thats what this block was but its the next best thing and is still extremely rare a unicorn 400,so far the stripdown is 100 PERCENT good with block in gc and i honestly think i might be able to use the pistons that are in it,i will let olm8 at the machine shop examine them just to be sure ,i mean this aint gunna be a big hp motor just a mild stump puller with the stamped steel rockers and very mild tourque cam,but wait there is more i have found a set of NOS std matching 8cc pistons still in the box from 1971,so either way we are on a winner,olm8 will use the round mic thing to check the bore i suppose first but i reckon all it needs is a tiny ridge cut maybe at first inspection. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 18, 2020 Yeah I saw those cam lobes in an earlier pic, looks like whoever owned it before could have been running a low zinc oil.I can understand why Ford would modify their master mould patterns to make the extended deck. Every other dimension in the block is the same (save for the main bearings, which are 3" like a 351W). What I can't understand is why they would go to a dedicated engine mount that has nothing in common with any other Ford out there. Like you said, they did some funny things back then, still do (eg 2 kinds of 4.6 blocks with little interchangeability)Great news on the bore condition, some simple tweaks and a freshen up will have this pulling your whole suburb with all that juicy torqueSent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 18, 2020 remember with our xd xe GF FOUNDRY blocks they changed the size of the bushing on the distributer shaft ???? god no's why they just did weird things,in an earlier post i said look at the size of these 2v heads and that picture is with the bath tub manifold still on it ,its even bigger without the tub on it ??? prototype ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,231 Posted January 18, 2020 21 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said: remember with our xd xe GF FOUNDRY blocks they changed the size of the bushing on the distributer shaft ???? god no's why they just did weird things i always thought that dissy change was so you couldn't fit points dizzy to an elec dizzy block for pollution reasons.. well, that's at least what i was told about 25yrs ago, possibly by an engine machinist? 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 18, 2020 where it sits in the block is a small differance in bushing size not much thou wait i will get a dizzy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 18, 2020 fk i fell asleep,been working hard on the 400 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,260 Posted January 19, 2020 i got the block fully stripped and ready for the machine shop to clean it then he will mic it up to see if we can still use std size pistons and i have a starsky and hunch its gunna be fine as there is still hone marks on the bores,i also managed to get the heater pipe of without breaking it ,also i think these cast iron headers are toast they are both cracked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted January 19, 2020 As far as I recall, the XD became the first "Metric" blocks, (5.8 instead of 351), and they changed to electronic ignition, and used a metric diameter dizzy. Not much else changed inside though, all the journals were still Imperial, I reckon.  typical Clevo issue, cracked manifolds......Custom headers are gonna be expensive, maybe find yourself a good welding company. Can be fixed, but needs some experience. 2 Boingk and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites