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CHESTNUTXE

CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

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yup thats it i have this idea of putting the 400 in the back of a xc wagon with a concord front end with the scott injector hat just protruding thru the crome roof racks,with the number plate 2VMAX,just a set of concrete plans I've set in motion....


Do it son... For the good of the nation!! 🤓

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gerg maybe you can find out this engine number so we can find auctally what car it came out of,i is supposed to be a galaxie but 2 door 4 door ? AG62MK88548S stamped on front of block.
Only some of it seems to make sense going off what I found. The first digit should be number "1" (meaning 71), the G means Chicago plant and the 62 refers to an LTD 2 door. The "MK" I have no clue, the number is a serial number and the "S" means 400, but the site I found was a bit vague.

http://www.tpocr.com/fordvin11.html

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at least its out of a coupe,ltd ? olm8 who sold it too me said it came out of a galaxie ? but there is many variants of 4 and 2 door gals and ltds ect,with all soughts of engine fittments,from 302 to 460

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at least its out of a coupe,ltd ? olm8 who sold it too me said it came out of a galaxie ? but there is many variants of 4 and 2 door gals and ltds ect,with all soughts of engine fittments,from 302 to 460
Todays effort saw me trying to get all right bank head bolts unstuck it took hours of heating banging and even snapping a socket after hours of trying i got them off and chex the c6 out it came off easy and look at the 50 years of crud on the pistons03929f8a23ed8ea29090e6fc086a8d9d.jpg63e8424f92ae2e72540a659fb1bd36b2.jpgde17d8f9b3cbd2e714d935e8c1b0aa8f.jpg

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i also saw a thing on a hagerty rebuild to nock the lifters down out of the block  not to damage the lifter bores ,as they dont want to come out easy from the top ,tomorrow will take the timing cover plate off ,timing chain and cam,also will try to find the dizzy gear which has come off the dizzy shaft lets hope it hasnt fkd anything,but engine does spin smoothly.

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Looking good mate, and yeah always punt them down into the block when you can. The mushroomed edges (even on a microscopic level) will mar the lifter bores.

 

I use old pushrods and a plastic mallet, seems to do the trick pretty well.

 

 - boingk

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I know you're pulling it down completely, but if doing a cam swap in chassis, there is a trick I came up with to get the lifters out without dropping them in the sump. I first held the lifters away from the cam with good old clothes pegs. Pulled the old cam out, then got a 40mm PVC pipe and sliced it in half to make it into sort of like a long tray that goes down the lifter bore to catch the lifters, letting them go one at a time. I pulled each one out individually so as to not let them interfere with each other as I pulled the pipe through.

You have to do this 16 times but it's still better than jacking up the engine and pulling the sump off to catch an escaped lifter.

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I know you're pulling it down completely, but if doing a cam swap in chassis, there is a trick I came up with to get the lifters out without dropping them in the sump. I first held the lifters away from the cam with good old clothes pegs. Pulled the old cam out, then got a 40mm PVC pipe and sliced it in half to make it into sort of like a long tray that goes down the lifter bore to catch the lifters, letting them go one at a time. I pulled each one out individually so as to not let them interfere with each other as I pulled the pipe through.

You have to do this 16 times but it's still better than jacking up the engine and pulling the sump off to catch an escaped lifter.

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The long way around things is always 100% worth it and works everytime rather than fk it

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The long way around things is always 100% worth it and works everytime rather than fk it

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I was right even b4 i stripped it down the dizzy gear got Chewbaccad check the chunks in the pick up screen but all seems good thou i guess the engine cut off instantly when the dizzy gear would not fire the plugs so thats the mystery solved i think plus chain came off easily plenty of stretch a1d45f9934fce4346416afa02ae0a9dc.jpga2589455971b2e2fe545835db76384c9.jpgfece53fce8c4af7dc858f1a0433885a2.jpgcdfdbe883c7dfaed78e7fd0e15c595f9.jpg7cb20b35a5b323c3f75a65d91779a3ee.jpg

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I was right even b4 i stripped it down the dizzy gear got Chewbaccad check the chunks in the pick up screen but all seems good thou i guess the engine cut off instantly when the dizzy gear would not fire the plugs so thats the mystery solved i think plus chain came off easily plenty of stretch a1d45f9934fce4346416afa02ae0a9dc.jpga2589455971b2e2fe545835db76384c9.jpgfece53fce8c4af7dc858f1a0433885a2.jpgcdfdbe883c7dfaed78e7fd0e15c595f9.jpg7cb20b35a5b323c3f75a65d91779a3ee.jpg

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4 pistons out and cyl walls look good with minor lip i would say maybe medium mileage but it gets better gerg is gunna love this check the factory notch for bigger valves typical early cleveland casting40fc8e7a5efe304400afe957659d5809.jpgf34f2e7b2f397305b1a9fbaf7c1f1057.jpg

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Fuck....... that chain is barely engaged on the teeth of the timing gear.!  One backfire, and she was toast.

 

Good news on the internals being reasonable, at least it hasn't been thrashed, and left to rot with a bent 'rod, or worse.

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Fuck....... that chain is barely engaged on the teeth of the timing gear.!  One backfire, and she was toast.
 
Good news on the internals being reasonable, at least it hasn't been thrashed, and left to rot with a bent 'rod, or worse.
By 12 i had the whole engine disassembled and inspected but couldnt get a correct reading on head cc also the conrod bolts seem bigger than a normal cleveland maybe ?84894e687364f2820f4531215aa9f7d9.jpg84205ab53cff1497075339c6e904ae5a.jpg3a666ccc37e77b64a95f6664f689d681.jpg259744583fc14ea03288501c1351e590.jpg3a89ac6f07336fef4c473386fe6b69e5.jpgc77e7e4f883364a08b62d851da082395.jpg

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I wonder why they notched the bore.... Maybe they had bigger plans for this series engine (ie 4V heads, etc) maybe a Boss 400?

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Camshaft has some numbers but its toast i would say ,also the first cam bearing is fkd and i cleaned 1 piston just for a look and its in pretty good shape note 4hundy stamped also check the size of the counterweight thats is humungas650a1e1d69520c30748092847728800e.jpg6f0025661710a1af4f406e7c9a00179e.jpg3aae7c0b1dc4f319ca121efe60933942.jpg4eb773695ef1063f09d605dc4d98856a.jpg9403e4b3e46637f8c4176d88a8d1eaf2.jpgf72b849de66c04d389d677adfec2959b.jpg

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1 hour ago, gerg said:

I wonder why they notched the bore.... Maybe they had bigger plans for this series engine (ie 4V heads, etc) maybe a Boss 400?

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gerg here is your answer,ford wanted a 400 size engine,because chev had one and wanted something inbetween the 351 and the 460,if you look closely you can see 2 casting bosses that are identical to the normal cleveland and windsor mounts,but they are undrilled,because they used the bottom of the normal cleveland in the mould but ford liked doing weird things and the other side only 1 undrilled boss is there and not the other one which to this day is still a mystery,there is only 1 holy grail 400 that has both sides drilled to fit normal cleveland mounts and is highly sought after even in the usa,i thought thats what this block was but its the next best thing and is still extremely rare a unicorn 400,so far the stripdown is 100 PERCENT good with block in gc and i honestly think i might be able to use the pistons that are in it,i will let olm8 at the machine shop examine them just to be sure ,i mean this aint gunna be a big hp motor just a mild stump puller with the stamped steel rockers and very mild tourque cam,but wait there is more i have found a set of NOS std matching 8cc pistons still in the box from 1971,so either way we are on a winner,olm8 will use the round mic thing to check the bore i suppose first but i reckon all it needs is a tiny ridge cut maybe at first inspection.YvrODFPU_o.jpgkuzqqsNX_o.jpg

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Yeah I saw those cam lobes in an earlier pic, looks like whoever owned it before could have been running a low zinc oil.

I can understand why Ford would modify their master mould patterns to make the extended deck. Every other dimension in the block is the same (save for the main bearings, which are 3" like a 351W). What I can't understand is why they would go to a dedicated engine mount that has nothing in common with any other Ford out there. Like you said, they did some funny things back then, still do (eg 2 kinds of 4.6 blocks with little interchangeability)

Great news on the bore condition, some simple tweaks and a freshen up will have this pulling your whole suburb with all that juicy torque

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remember with our xd xe GF FOUNDRY blocks they changed the size of the bushing on the distributer shaft ???? god no's why they just did weird things,in an earlier post i said look at the size of these 2v heads and that picture is with the bath tub manifold still on it ,its even bigger without the tub on it ??? prototype ?gRJwKMvX_o.jpg

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21 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

remember with our xd xe GF FOUNDRY blocks they changed the size of the bushing on the distributer shaft ???? god no's why they just did weird things

i always thought that dissy change was so you couldn't fit points dizzy to an elec dizzy block for pollution reasons.. well, that's at least what i was told about 25yrs ago, possibly by an engine machinist?

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i got the block fully stripped and ready for the machine shop to clean it then he will mic it up to see if we can still use std size pistons and i have a starsky and hunch its gunna be fine as there is still hone marks on the bores,i also managed to get the heater pipe of without breaking it ,also i think these cast iron headers are toast they are both cracked.fFshmGMi_o.jpgQ7QIB0oP_o.jpguINBPHPs_o.jpg

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As far as I recall, the XD became the first "Metric" blocks, (5.8 instead of 351), and they changed to electronic ignition, and used a metric diameter dizzy. Not much else changed inside though, all the journals were still Imperial, I reckon.

 

typical Clevo issue, cracked manifolds......Custom headers are gonna be expensive, maybe find yourself a good welding company. Can be fixed, but needs some experience.

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