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CHESTNUTXE

CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

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if it was 500 just for the engine i would probly buy it,but no spare money atm too close to crissmass,unless i can do a buy now and pay later i will chat with him maybe we can come to an agreement,i cant see him rebuilding it,would go nice in a wagon like xd or xe 

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1971 HP rating was 270,but 1972 onwards was only 171 hp from smog gear,im not sure what year this engine is but might go down tomorrow and get some numbers off the block then we can combine our ford usa number system to find out what year this donk is ,we know it came out of a galaxy ,im hoping ita a early 70s rumour has it that those engine had a 2v head like ours but with a tad bigger chamber,its the later 400 that had the 2v head with not so good heads,might make him a offer tomorrow or throw 500 down just to keep it until after crisstmass.

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ok there is engine mounts available to suit xw xy,and with A small spacer fits xa,xf.i was just reading some other forums you can use older FE engine mounts from a usa fairlane and bobs yur uncle,just browse usa e bay and is possible to get.

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I've read a lot about them too, part of that drop in power could come from changing from gross to net output, ie: gross is just the engine in a perfect environment with headers (no manifolds), accessories, water pump vs the net rating with all the factory shit installed as it would be in the car.

Early ones threw out some rarities like factory 4 barrel manifolds and smallblock bellhousing patterns.

Later ones were strangled by emissions, had air injection from 75 onwards to suit cats. Ignition and cam timing retarded, Motorcraft 2 barrel pea shooter. You could swap in simple things like 4 barrel, proper cam timing, bump up the ignition timing and probably gain 50 HP just there.

Comp was the other hurdle, and really the only easy way to tackle that is to get the pistons closer to the deck. They are seriously light years down the bore, and together with the open chambers, gave pathetic compression. High 7s on the later ones. I reckon I could squeeze a fart harder than that.

I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust bump in the port. That's the least of your worries I reckon.

Decoding the part numbers will be very interesting. Likely to be out of a truck though, unless the whole car came here with it installed. The number will be something like D7TE if it was out of an F-series, or D7AE if out of a full-size car.

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I've read a lot about them too, part of that drop in power could come from changing from gross to net output, ie: gross is just the engine in a perfect environment with headers (no manifolds), accessories, water pump vs the net rating with all the factory shit installed as it would be in the car.

Early ones threw out some rarities like factory 4 barrel manifolds and smallblock bellhousing patterns.

Later ones were strangled by emissions, had air injection from 75 onwards to suit cats. Ignition and cam timing retarded, Motorcraft 2 barrel pea shooter. You could swap in simple things like 4 barrel, proper cam timing, bump up the ignition timing and probably gain 50 HP just there.

Comp was the other hurdle, and really the only easy way to tackle that is to get the pistons closer to the deck. They are seriously light years down the bore, and together with the open chambers, gave pathetic compression. High 7s on the later ones. I reckon I could squeeze a fart harder than that.

I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust bump in the port. That's the least of your worries I reckon.

Decoding the part numbers will be very interesting. Likely to be out of a truck though, unless the whole car came here with it installed. The number will be something like D7TE if it was out of an F-series, or D7AE if out of a full-size car.

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On xfalcon gregaus has some input on engine mounts for x series seems easier than 1st thought

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Agreed on all above. Throw a 4-barrel at it, likely a 750cfm Holley, sort the ignition and go from there.

 

I used an Elgin E-907-P camshaft in my last Clevo 351, it was only a cheap unit from the states but was a nice runner in a mildly modified engine. Very torquey everywhere and lovely idle lope. Much better midrange and topend than stock, too. It'd be a really good, civil daily driver with a bit of a temper when you put your foot down.

 

 - boingk

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Agreed on all above. Throw a 4-barrel at it, likely a 750cfm Holley, sort the ignition and go from there.
 
I used an Elgin E-907-P camshaft in my last Clevo 351, it was only a cheap unit from the states but was a nice runner in a mildly modified engine. Very torquey everywhere and lovely idle lope. Much better midrange and topend than stock, too. It'd be a really good, civil daily driver with a bit of a temper when you put your foot down.
 
 - boingk
That sounds like something around the "stage 2" mark in the old days when they used to use those terms. Sounds a little like mine at the moment: 208/208 @0.050, 110 lobe sep, made for midrange. Or maybe yours was slightly more than that, like a 214/214, as mine doesn't lope even on a little 302

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this afo was reading about the 400 engine mounts to suit x series,stock cast iron units fit (just)and correct rubber engine mounts are a direct fit to our v8 chassis plates,but i dont know about extractors,if getting serious use the tower notch kit and im sure a decent clevo unit would work maybe,i will go down and sus the motor out a bit more tomorrow.

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3 minutes ago, gerg said:

That sounds like something around the "stage 2" mark in the old days when they used to use those terms. Sounds a little like mine at the moment: 208/208 @0.050, 110 lobe sep, made for midrange. Or maybe yours was slightly more than that, like a 214/214, as mine doesn't lope even on a little 302

 

It was a 219@50 / 505 lift, so probably a "Stage 3" or "3/4 Race Cam" by standards of days gone by. Here's the soundbite, shared before on page 2.

 

 

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I looked up the 400M last night after reading this, deck clearance 0.067", later smog engines got 15cc dished piston & Cam retarded 6°, some of the heads up to 79cc chamber,

Watching the latest Engine Masters, mopar did similar things with the motorhome 440's they're pistons like are 0.100" down the bore.

Found a few articles from Richard Holdener of motortread group, around 2009/2010 did a few 400M build ups,

stock reco & with 4 barrel, Ford 400M Engine Rebuild - Hot Rod Network

with Procomp heads Pro Comp Head Test - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords

also seen a stoker build with offset ground crank, 6.3 chev rod & 340 mopar piston,

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Good article on the build with Weiand Action+ and Holley for a 35hp gain, but not sure on the Procomps, I'm in the middle of this for my 302 Windsor. They just have too many poor reviews to justify the price. Bad valve seats, porosity, and valve issues sem to be the main dramas. I've also heard of poor valve guides and even bad machining, quite "nothing on these heads was straight or round".

 

 

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i have bought many extractors ,timing chains,gaskets sets and heaps of stuff off them and all seem good for std replacement,but their heads yeah be aware ,by the time you pay a machine shop to true them up you could have just bought the ones ando was talking about,clevo the same AFD are very well priced now as well for a set of 2vs.

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I have read that the castings are soft and porous, that welding them is like trying to weld styrofoam. Also valve guides out of alignment with pedestals, seats falling out.

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i didnt get a chance today to look at the cast date ect on the 400 ,but im a step closer to buying it as i sold my hyd 250 single rail set up and some other stuff on e bay,so batton down the hatches  as a 4 hundy could be cranking soon.

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