Jump to content
Server maintenance Read more... ×
jca25

Brake booster rebuild

Recommended Posts

Rebuilding a brake booster is not a easy job lots of parts inside can break easy trust me broke a few over the yrs when doing my time in a brake shop.

 

The most common thing what goes in the boosters is the diaphragms

 

224cb155fdd868931b9e5deb7c4db453.jpg

 

Now the one here is out of my xd van sp ot does have to of them and they look worse cause they tore getting them off.

 

Now first step to getting them apart is to mark the outer case of the booster so u know where the top half and bottom half need to line up,

 

You will need a press a plate to go in between the press for the booster to be held in using the bolts that hold it to the fire wall, a long flat bar with 3 holes in to go over the studs and the pin that goes into the master (needs to be long for leverage as top and bottom will be stuck together good) now depending on how thick the bar you have is you will a small bit of tube to go over the pin as it will poke through.

 

240cfbbe021f0704c805111df88105a6.jpg

 

Put in the press with a bit of pressure but don't go overboard and then start turning the top half with the bar just watch you don't bend the studs to much if it doesn't move u can use a pair of vice grips to bend the peens on the bottom half a bit to let it move a bit easier

 

aad419ea59dd96d05636f27c2b09da0a.jpg

 

Now once you get it to turn and line the 2 bits up you can release the pressure off the press now don't go to quick as there is a spring in there not as strong as a brake chamber off a truck but will make shoot out if not careful.

 

Now this is how one will look when one has had brake fluid in it for a bit

 

cde82a779a9445c78f8db0cefd142489.jpg

 

Give it all a clean up with the sand blaster, now the main part to be careful with is the bakerlite guts

2e5b4ae146fe2329344ecf4e9bf5e2e1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can clean the bakerlite up lightly with some with some wet and dry and kerosene just make sure there is no big grooves where the seals run, to pull out the push rod from the bakerlite after you pull the diaphragms off u should see at least 3/4 of the way up to the top a clip or on top of the push rod you will see a c clip then the push rod will pull out.

 

The rear seal just knock the old one out making sure not to mark the case, now here is the part which is hard unless you have access to a lathe, you need to make up these tools to put the seals in with

 

217e03d1027f53d1f04b908ffe3fed9e.jpg

 

dee93feaa299799254619e58f354e153.jpg

 

Now like any seal make sure they go in flush and straight but one thing these are very brittle

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These parts are what needs replacing the part numbers are on them but if I have the old bits still I will put them up

 

93ef0e73e20ea4d3e9af12c09cc75926.jpg

 

Once you get all the new parts you will also need some rubber grease (sex lube will not work) and some silicone grease which is use on the seals.

 

58442e082ea3c96d2c80dacf09eb6128.jpg

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now after you have it all cleaned up and painted you can put ur seals in using the tools I use the press to put them in but can use the hammer just make sure they are home, the silicon grease is use in the seals.

Next put one of the steel plates on the bakerlite and then use some rubber grease on the first diaphragm on the center hole there is a bit of a art to get the plate to sit in the right spot and the diaphragm on behind it,

Now the second plate with the seal goes on next and then the second diaphragm will go on and will look like the pic above sitting on press, now put ur push rod back in using rubber grease on it aswell after it's all the way put ur c clip on to hold it in place, you can now slide it back into the bottom half of the case,

Now you are getting closer to being done you should have left a front rubber seal and a reaction disc which goes in on top of the c clip then ur push rod that goes into the brake master is next on top place the booster back in to the press, now where the lid will spin on the diaphragm when pressed back together put use rubber grease on the diaphragm side put the spring back in and lid on and line up the two marks that you made in the start before pulling apart, now you can put in ur front seal with its metal plate use a bit of rubber grease on the hole where it goes over the push rod, now you can put in the grommet and one way valve,

Now to test which is hard unless you have a vacuum pump to see if it holds

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers ando I hope it helps out I may have missed a bit here and there but like I said earlier it is easier for to do then explain but if anyone has a question just ask and I will try to help

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times
They always let go at the worst time. Mine was one of the dreaded plastic EF ones that split where the master bolts on. It showed its ugly head pulling up to a set of lights in traffic on the way home. I had nowhere to go and after stomping the shit out of the pedal, had to swerve onto the median strip (Carlisle ave, Mt Druitt) , which was lucky because if it was any other road without a median strip I would have rammed someone up the arse. I babied it straight to the Ford wreckers to get another one. They knew exactly what had happened when I told them and sure enough, when I pulled it off, there was the crack.

Great thread by the way. Loving the DIY

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a question. My Utes booster makes an asthmatic weeze when I push down on the brakes.
Any idea what causes this?
Is booster on way out?
Can hear when stationary.
Strange.

Jack.

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just a question. My Utes booster makes an asthmatic weeze when I push down on the brakes.
Any idea what causes this?
Is booster on way out?
Can hear when stationary.
Strange.

Jack.

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk



That’s similar to what my xe did Jack, right before the poo started running down my leg. I heard it kind of pop then the wheezing sound every time the pedal was depressed. Maybe yours is leaking slightly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just a question. My Utes booster makes an asthmatic weeze when I push down on the brakes.
Any idea what causes this?
Is booster on way out?
Can hear when stationary.
Strange.

Jack.

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk




U might find the seal is starting to let go, if there was a hole in the diaphragm u would know bout it the brake pedal would be hard as rock.

To test if still working fine when car is off press the pedal till rock hard and while still holding the brake down start the car the vacuum should pull the pedal down with ease under the pressure of ur foot

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will test her tomorrow.
Cheers fellas.
I also saw some smaller style hotrod booster and master cylinder set up for about $285.
New XG about $320.
Kits for rebuilds $110
But those press tools... for the seals.... where did you procure them JCA?
Please Sir. :)

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Will test her tomorrow.
Cheers fellas.
I also saw some smaller style hotrod booster and master cylinder set up for about $285.
New XG about $320.
Kits for rebuilds $110
But those press tools... for the seals.... where did you procure them JCA?
Please Sir.

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk




I had them made at work where I am these days they are fully set up with a engineer shop, (full change of career now work in a sugar mill)

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×