gerg

Spring saddle/perch bushes, Shelby drop

38 posts in this topic

Nice work mate. Nothing like kicking off a Friday with a foreign order
Lol you even call them the same thing

We say "foey" for short

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My Nolathane uppers arrived, time to put the shit back in the horse.0f922039ec5c89f6fa952e664dcf710a.jpg

 

They've given the outer sleeve a decent step to press down to so you don't have to guess how far to press it in.

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Trying to show my crush spacer that prevents the two ends from squeezing inwards while pressing from each side. Basically a piece of angle with some bits of flat bar welded on each end to make a "C" shape. This makes a convenient window to see what the pin is doing while you're pressing the end in. Measures 205mm initially, may take a few grinds here and there to shape it right because the insides of the arms aren't exactly square to each other.

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First bush going in, no dramas

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OK don't be a dickhead like me and put the other end in with the pivot in place but no inside washers. Had to press it all apart again to get them in. Didn't make that fucken mistake the second time!

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Nuts on and zapped up, decided that the tiny sachet of moly grease they give you isn't going to cut it long term, so installed some 6mm extended grease nipples. I put them into the outer sleeve on the bush rather than bore down the centre of the pin because those pins are as hard as a dog's forehead. Tested with my work grease gun, goo comes out the end, happy times.

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One thing to note: the bolts that go through the pivot into the shock tower are specially splined on the shank to be a hammer-fit into their bores, so don't try and undo them from the pivot side. Treat them like you would wheel studs. Take care with them not to damage the thread, and don't go substituting them with a standard 1/2" UNC bolt.

 

 

 

 

 

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Got one of the Lovells out of the coupe:

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Looks like the same spring minus one coil, so you could probably cut a stocker without any dramas.

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Your grease mod for those bushes, the pivot pin clamps the gussett/centre sleeve when the pivot is done up. All the rotating is done on the inner.

Or did you drill right through the bush so the grease gets to the inner?

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Your grease mod for those bushes, the pivot pin clamps the gussett/centre sleeve when the pivot is done up. All the rotating is done on the inner.
Or did you drill right through the bush so the grease gets to the inner?
Correct. I sent a 2.5mm drill right through, at an angle so the grease comes out closer towards the halfway point. Then drilled a shallow 5mm hole in the outer sleeve to take the 6mm tap. I greased all 4 bushes to ensure that grease comes out from between the inner sleeve and the bush, and it does.

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Done the Shelby drop:

Some like to go 1/8" to the rear on the new holes for added caster and to allow for the slight upward angle of the originals which if you projected 1" perpendicular (as I have) , would actually put the arm slightly forward from the original mount point. Oh well, in the whole scheme of things, I don't think it really makes much difference. If I have to, I'll shim out the front mount bolt so the arm tilts back a bit, pushes the upper ball joint back and gets some caster that way. Only way to know is to drive it.

Template:

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Wider shot:

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Arm in:

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Notes:

The steel in this area is very tough and is double-skinned. The trick here, especially with the 1/2" bit, is to slow the drill right down and to use plenty of lube. I mean drown it in WD or similar. Use a nice sharp bit, and if it's cutting well, it should be peeling off nice curly bits of swarf. If it's chipping, you don't have enough bite and /or not pressing hard enough, and will possibly burn out. This is bad in this area because if you work-harden the bit you're drilling, you're in a world of shit. It gets very bitey toward the end of the drilling so brace yourself if you're using a drill with some balls.

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You will have plenty of adjustability in both camber and caster. Don't worry about it too much.
Yeah I just remember running out of guard lip clearance to the front of the wheel arch under some circumstances (braking/cornering) with the castor rod wound in so far. With power steer, it will need even more castor to get some sort of steering feel. Lowering will also amplify the clearance problem. Will just have to run it and see.

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Have heard about this.

I Though I had quite a bit wound into the front but still heaps of room. Maby it's because I run small tires?

The wheel alignment guy reconed it was too much caster, even for track work and we agreed to take .5 off it. Heaps of clearance to the bumper.

Still oversteers well before under steering, so there is no need to go more agressive (yet)

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