Outback Jack 6,352 Posted June 14, 2018 Nice work gerg. Pretty much how I do mine.Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted June 14, 2018 Cool stuff. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted June 14, 2018 Nice work mate. Nothing like kicking off a Friday with a foreign order 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 15, 2018 Nice work mate. Nothing like kicking off a Friday with a foreign order Lol you even call them the same thing We say "foey" for shortSent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 1 Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 20, 2018 My Nolathane uppers arrived, time to put the shit back in the horse. They've given the outer sleeve a decent step to press down to so you don't have to guess how far to press it in. Trying to show my crush spacer that prevents the two ends from squeezing inwards while pressing from each side. Basically a piece of angle with some bits of flat bar welded on each end to make a "C" shape. This makes a convenient window to see what the pin is doing while you're pressing the end in. Measures 205mm initially, may take a few grinds here and there to shape it right because the insides of the arms aren't exactly square to each other. First bush going in, no dramas OK don't be a dickhead like me and put the other end in with the pivot in place but no inside washers. Had to press it all apart again to get them in. Didn't make that fucken mistake the second time! Nuts on and zapped up, decided that the tiny sachet of moly grease they give you isn't going to cut it long term, so installed some 6mm extended grease nipples. I put them into the outer sleeve on the bush rather than bore down the centre of the pin because those pins are as hard as a dog's forehead. Tested with my work grease gun, goo comes out the end, happy times. One thing to note: the bolts that go through the pivot into the shock tower are specially splined on the shank to be a hammer-fit into their bores, so don't try and undo them from the pivot side. Treat them like you would wheel studs. Take care with them not to damage the thread, and don't go substituting them with a standard 1/2" UNC bolt. 5 Outback Jack, Thom, Valvebouncer and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 21, 2018 Got one of the Lovells out of the coupe:Looks like the same spring minus one coil, so you could probably cut a stocker without any dramas.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 1 Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted June 21, 2018 Your grease mod for those bushes, the pivot pin clamps the gussett/centre sleeve when the pivot is done up. All the rotating is done on the inner. Or did you drill right through the bush so the grease gets to the inner? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 21, 2018 Your grease mod for those bushes, the pivot pin clamps the gussett/centre sleeve when the pivot is done up. All the rotating is done on the inner. Or did you drill right through the bush so the grease gets to the inner?Correct. I sent a 2.5mm drill right through, at an angle so the grease comes out closer towards the halfway point. Then drilled a shallow 5mm hole in the outer sleeve to take the 6mm tap. I greased all 4 bushes to ensure that grease comes out from between the inner sleeve and the bush, and it does. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 6 Valvebouncer, deankxf, Outback Jack and 3 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted July 8, 2018 Done the Shelby drop:Some like to go 1/8" to the rear on the new holes for added caster and to allow for the slight upward angle of the originals which if you projected 1" perpendicular (as I have) , would actually put the arm slightly forward from the original mount point. Oh well, in the whole scheme of things, I don't think it really makes much difference. If I have to, I'll shim out the front mount bolt so the arm tilts back a bit, pushes the upper ball joint back and gets some caster that way. Only way to know is to drive it.Template:Wider shot:Arm in:Notes:The steel in this area is very tough and is double-skinned. The trick here, especially with the 1/2" bit, is to slow the drill right down and to use plenty of lube. I mean drown it in WD or similar. Use a nice sharp bit, and if it's cutting well, it should be peeling off nice curly bits of swarf. If it's chipping, you don't have enough bite and /or not pressing hard enough, and will possibly burn out. This is bad in this area because if you work-harden the bit you're drilling, you're in a world of shit. It gets very bitey toward the end of the drilling so brace yourself if you're using a drill with some balls.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 4 Valvebouncer, Outback Jack, Kiwi-E and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted July 8, 2018 Nice write up Greg. It’s good to pass on little tips such as drilling. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted July 9, 2018 You will have plenty of adjustability in both camber and caster. Don't worry about it too much. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted July 15, 2018 You will have plenty of adjustability in both camber and caster. Don't worry about it too much.Yeah I just remember running out of guard lip clearance to the front of the wheel arch under some circumstances (braking/cornering) with the castor rod wound in so far. With power steer, it will need even more castor to get some sort of steering feel. Lowering will also amplify the clearance problem. Will just have to run it and see.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted July 15, 2018 Have heard about this. I Though I had quite a bit wound into the front but still heaps of room. Maby it's because I run small tires? The wheel alignment guy reconed it was too much caster, even for track work and we agreed to take .5 off it. Heaps of clearance to the bumper. Still oversteers well before under steering, so there is no need to go more agressive (yet) 2 Valvebouncer and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 7, 2020 Did you do this to the wags.??? How is it handling after a years abuse?? You didn't move the pivot holes back 1/8" (as suggested for 65-66 Mussies but not for 67-70's). Did it make any difference, or cause any issues.?? Did you have to 'massage' the inside of the towers at all, or grind the UCA on the corners.?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted December 8, 2020 Did you do this to the wags.??? How is it handling after a years abuse?? You didn't move the pivot holes back 1/8" (as suggested for 65-66 Mussies but not for 67-70's). Did it make any difference, or cause any issues.?? Did you have to 'massage' the inside of the towers at all, or grind the UCA on the corners.??You talking about mine Bear? Been driving it for about a year and a half, very happy with the handling. Still haven't gotten the 16" steelies yet, will report back on handling when that happens.Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 8, 2020 Yeah, mate. Just been thinking about it, and doing some research. Would like to know if its worth it for a weekend cruiser. I thought about adding a plate on the inside of the shock tower to extend the 'double' skin, and cover the old holes. 2 gerg and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted December 9, 2020 Yeah, mate. Just been thinking about it, and doing some research. Would like to know if its worth it for a weekend cruiser. I thought about adding a plate on the inside of the shock tower to extend the 'double' skin, and cover the old holes.Yeah that's probably a good idea Bear, mine has come loose on those nuts already. Any reinforcing is better than stock in that area, regardless of Shelby drop or not. Someone posted some pics of a car where the arms were tearing the metal away there (must have made a huge racket squeaking and groaning).I highly recommend the mod on all Falcons, race or cruiser. I remember my dad cursing how badly the XB coupe used to scrub out the inside of the fronts due to static camber settings, done to correct the positive camber on compression (if you want any kind of performance handling) Used to get maybe 25-30k out of a front set of tyres.You could get away with close to zero camber setting with the Shelby mod, much more tyre friendly.Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk 2 bear351c and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,863 Posted December 9, 2020 7 hours ago, gerg said: mine has come loose on those nuts already. where the arms were tearing the metal away there (must have made a huge racket squeaking and groaning). 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted December 9, 2020 Yep... Thought it was you sparky but wasn't 100% Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites