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Thanks heaps fellas im gonna take the nipple all the way out tomorrow & see if its blocked or not & take it from there. As for the triangle bit on the back of the pad i grinded it down in order to get the caliper over the rotor so yeah im guessing after all the winding back of the piston i did it wasnt enough to clear that triangle shit. The bendix pads didnt have that triangle & the face of the piston has no triangle to line up with the back of the pad so got me buggered but i didnt have that prob on the right caliper so yeah i dunno just see how it goes👍

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Im just sitting here watching tv & going over the pad & piston in my mind & now its just hit me what u were talking about Dean the triangle hangs out a bit but once the piston is turned to the "correct posirion" there is enough room for the "triangle to sit in one of the 2 grooves on the piston thats that stupid tool goes into to wind the piston in or out......oh well too late now. I seriously dont know why they just didnt use a push in method like they did for the front calipers it makes life so much easier

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4 minutes ago, Free.51 said:

Im just sitting here watching tv & going over the pad & piston in my mind & now its just hit me what u were talking about Dean the triangle hangs out a bit but once the piston is turned to the "correct posirion" there is enough room for the "triangle to sit in one of the 2 grooves on the piston thats that stupid tool goes into to wind the piston in or out......oh well too late now. I seriously dont know why they just didnt use a push in method like they did for the front calipers it makes life so much easier

that said.. 
the XD ghia/ZJ fairlane  probably XC and prior same.. 

they wind in the same way(2 pins instead of keyway thing) and those pad's aren't "located" (they have a spring clip that clips to the piston though i think) so maybe it will be totally fine

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Im just sitting here watching tv & going over the pad & piston in my mind & now its just hit me what u were talking about Dean the triangle hangs out a bit but once the piston is turned to the "correct posirion" there is enough room for the "triangle to sit in one of the 2 grooves on the piston thats that stupid tool goes into to wind the piston in or out......oh well too late now. I seriously dont know why they just didnt use a push in method like they did for the front calipers it makes life so much easier
Because if they did, when new pads are fitted the handbrake would barely have to be on to engage, but by the time the pads got to 50-75% wear you'd nearly have to get in the back seat to pull it far enough on.
At least I think that's how they work.

Ford "fixed" the handbrake issues by going to the Banksia style (drum shoes inside the disc rotor) in late Eseries, problem with those is they need adjusting pretty much every service.

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I took the bleed nipple off & cleaned it its good , then got my brother to push the pedal no fluid came out so then i undid the hose from the caliper & pushed the pedal many times again & still no fluid so looks like the hose needs to be replaced which i might do tomorrow & hopefully that gets the caliper working again

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31 minutes ago, Free.51 said:

I took the bleed nipple off & cleaned it its good , then got my brother to push the pedal no fluid came out so then i undid the hose from the caliper & pushed the pedal many times again & still no fluid so looks like the hose needs to be replaced which i might do tomorrow & hopefully that gets the caliper working again

i've had this a few times now as i've had 30 odd year old cars now quite often.. the hose ruptures internally

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2 minutes ago, deankdx said:

i've had this a few times now as i've had 30 odd year old cars now quite often.. the hose ruptures internally

Yes I've had a few too. I had an XC hose , no matter what I did even with over 100 psi air it was solid 

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7 minutes ago, gregaust said:

You could try cracking the steel line where it goes into the flex hose . That will tell for sure if it is the hose 

& if not then the hardline is kinked uh oh more dramas for me:(

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2 hours ago, Free.51 said:

& if not then the hardline is kinked uh oh more dramas for me:(

hard line is cheaper.. .. probably about same actually, $20 ish i'd guess for the short pipe $35 for the hose.. you would budget to do them all if so

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Sounds like a plan.......  upload a vid or some pics if ya can. Show us what you found, always helps others, and lets you keep a 'diary' of your build.

The rear calipers on XC/XD/XE (and its brothers) are super expensive, and being able to overhaul yours and diagnose issues is really helpful.

Good luck. B)

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Update

Got a secondhand flexible hose from pick a part on sat for $7 & went to put it on today & ofcourse the hardline nut gets rounded off so now will have to get another hardline that goes from the union fitting to flexi hose holy shit this is getting silly now

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A bit further back it was mentioned about the tool ( it’s a square block) to wind in the calliper, this is available from super cheap for a $20 or so.. I set caliper up with a gclamp or vice from memory to hold it , and the tool did the job winding it in, I put a extension bar into the square with a ratchet... there a universal thing designed to fit many Calipers.

 

just wanted to add some input..

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What size spannera would u guys use to crack the flare nuts on the hardline? I bought a 3/8 flare nut spanner & if fits on snug but still slips off under torque when i try to crack the nut & my hardline nut is now rounded & i went to pick a part to try to get the whole hardline from the diff to the left flex hose but the spanner just rounds the damn nut.........i dunno what im gonna docc769d9002b0161967c2ec35368efad6.jpg

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You talkin bout these vise grips mate? Bought these the other day too but still not havin luck cos of the lack of room in there but ill def give the nuts a smack with a punch & hammer lol sounds funny, i was actually at pick a part today & had the 19mm spanner on the flex hose end & the 3/8 on the hardline nut & as i pulled the 19mm spanner slipped off and smacked my glasses into my nose then onto the ground, anybody looking wouldve had a laugh i was like "well better bend the nose pins back into shape & keep goin"a06a79e740a0066d1b86a6edc36124e1.jpg

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i acutually just got an idea(i hate those"pipe" spanners aka nut rounders) 

i usually use a GOOD sidchrome shifter on the brake line nuts, tighten it once its on the nut and shock it undone, i have had to use vise grips before.

BUT! i recon if you ground flats on the pipe spanner that vice grips could clamp onto also.. would be better(if there is space)
those hard lines don't cost much to make, if you went to Campbelfield, you were near Highway Clutch and Brake at 189 Barry Rd Campbelfield http://www.highwayclutch.com.au/

 

 

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