Free.51 2,717 Posted April 26, 2018 Hey guys gotta do new pads on the rear & definately need to machine the right hand rear rotor as the pad was wearing unevenly and the inside of the rotor has grooves in it, my question here is should try to save $25 & not get the left rear rotor machined? Is the lh rotor still useable as is? Heres is a pic v Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregaust 319 Posted April 26, 2018 Good / Best practice to do them in pairs If not you risk uneven braking or pulling. Yes even rears can cause a car to pull undr braking. You will need to measure the thickness , minimum from memory is 22.2mm or thereabouts 2 Free.51 and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted April 26, 2018 Yep, definitely do both........ As Gerg said, it'll pull, or lock up one wheel under heavy braking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted April 26, 2018 Yep, definitely do both........ As Gerg said, it'll pull, or lock up one wheel under heavy braking. Lol the other gerg Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 1 gregaust reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted April 26, 2018 Crap..... sorry GregAust. 2 gerg and gregaust reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hendrixhc 10,918 Posted April 26, 2018 Wouldnt it be easier and cheaper just to replace the rotors? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Free.51 2,717 Posted April 27, 2018 It's costing $50 to machine both rotors new ones would cost prob more than double that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Free.51 2,717 Posted April 27, 2018 New pads & rotors machined all up $83Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk 2 gregaust and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted April 27, 2018 Wow, thats a win..! 1 Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregaust 319 Posted April 27, 2018 That's awesome deal for sure . They looked near full thickness anyway. Good to go now Or should that be Good to STOP 1 Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Free.51 2,717 Posted April 28, 2018 As always nothing is ever easy & now i cant get the pistons back far enough anymore so now i think i might just buy new rear calipers, the left rear is turning but not actually going in any further & the rubber boot is torn & stuffed & the drivers side wont turn at all any more its hard as fuck & the stupid tool keeps slipping off the face of the piston:( Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted April 28, 2018 one of those pistons screws in anticlockwise from memory i've nearly always wound those pistons back with multigrips.. because the tool sucks the wang i am fairly sure i've ignored a torn boot on one or two in the past also.. shit things, really need a kit to be put through them all 1 Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted April 28, 2018 Yep, they're shits of things.......... long nose pliers, or huge flat blade screwdriver and a shifter. Otherwise, you'll have to pull them apart. If you're buying new/reco ones, you better have a fat wallet. 1 Mr Polson reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted April 29, 2018 Yep, they're shits of things.......... long nose pliers, or huge flat blade screwdriver and a shifter. Otherwise, you'll have to pull them apart. If you're buying new/reco ones, you better have a fat wallet. Stupidly expensive calipers to get, if you can even get them these days.I got a pair of exchange ones for my wagon through work, and even on our staff prices they were still pricey. Worth it though for a non sticking, smooth operating caliper.Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk 1 Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted April 29, 2018 need to get the slides SLIDABLE... i've had them stuck in needing a sledge hammer to remove(even with the stupid spring clip holders removed) 1 Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jca25 1,034 Posted April 29, 2018 Easy way of pushing them pistons back is take the handbrake lever off and whined the screw in then push the piston in at the same then u don't need to try turn the piston which is a shit of a idea Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Free.51 2,717 Posted April 29, 2018 13 hours ago, Mr Polson said: Stupidly expensive calipers to get, if you can even get them these days. I got a pair of exchange ones for my wagon through work, and even on our staff prices they were still pricey. Worth it though for a non sticking, smooth operating caliper. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk Yeah Mark (xtreme karts) mentioned that 1 jca25 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Free.51 2,717 Posted April 30, 2018 Tried turning the pistons in with the multi grips but my multi grips (trojan one) are stuffed & slipping so thats that & the slides seem to move back & forth real easy with just the slightest tap of a hammer so i guess thats good so decided to clean the backing plates & brake assemblies & slide pins for shits & giggles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted April 30, 2018 Aaah, different piston to what i saw in my head. Big arse screwdriver wont twist that..... sorry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Free.51 2,717 Posted May 6, 2018 Ok after a couple days mucking around & having to swap calipers for a second time the brakes are back on but when my bro & i went to bleed the lhr no fluid was coming out we tried a good 20 + pumps of the pedal but nothing the rhr bled straight away so took the car for a spin & the brakes seem good just like b4 so was wanting to know if driving it around for awhile will the fluid build up in the left caliper & should i try bleeding it again sooner rather than later? Or just leave it as is? Also had a cunt of a time getting the left caliper over the inner pad cos for some unknown reason it has a triangle protrusion so had to grind that down flush with the rest of the pad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregaust 319 Posted May 6, 2018 Your flex hose is ok????? I have had them close up with age. Being the LHR rotor was sus previous i'd be checking. Could been some air trapped ? But if the hose was blocked would still give an ok pedal 1 Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ESPSIX 143 Posted May 6, 2018 Check the bleed nipple is not blocked, pull it all the way out, and try pushing the peddle slowly, and see if any fluid comes out. ive even had the Caliper blocked with crud. 1 Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted May 6, 2018 that "protrusion" on the inner pad is there to locate the piston for the handbrake not to twist the piston with it when it rotates.. you may find that causes an issue? i'd also pull the bleed nipple out, i usually run a bit of wire or drill bit through and blow through them.. or swap with a known unblocked one. with the bleed screw removed it MUST flow fluid,if not it has to be a stuffed or kinked pipe or hose. 2 Outback Jack and Free.51 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted May 6, 2018 to position the brake inner pad with the piston you can rotate the piston into the "correct position" so it lines up 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites