SPACK

XF EFI Fuel problem?

99 posts in this topic

I really want to keep the car original, True there are Mods which will make the car, BETTER, but then it wont be what it was..Going to try the 95/98 fuel first then get the Mechanic to check the timing , maybe change the spark plugs again after they were all sooted up..

 

Outback Jack likes this

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When the car came out in 87 the engine was set up to run on 95 Ron, I dont know if 98 was available back then...

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Neither the MECHANIC or the AUTO ELECTRICIAN, know where the WIRES from the KNOCK SENSOR goes...ANYONE KNOW or and have a photo..IT ,might solve a lot of problems here...OR is there a section here I can refer too...cheers..

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1 hour ago, SPACK said:

Neither the MECHANIC or the AUTO ELECTRICIAN, know where the WIRES from the KNOCK SENSOR goes...ANYONE KNOW or and have a photo..IT ,might solve a lot of problems here...OR is there a section here I can refer too...cheers..

i think Mr POLSON has the book @Mr Polson

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2 hours ago, SPACK said:

Neither the MECHANIC or the AUTO ELECTRICIAN, know where the WIRES from the KNOCK SENSOR goes...ANYONE KNOW or and have a photo..IT ,might solve a lot of problems here...OR is there a section here I can refer too...cheers..

so they know where the knock sensor is right? 

on the front left corner of the head (exhaust side) those wires should go back to the ECU. 

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THE knock sensor wont affect idle. 

The idle speed screw on the front of the throttle body, and the air/fuel ratio screw on the vane meter is how its tuned. Very fiddly at times. 

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55 minutes ago, Panko said:

THE knock sensor wont affect idle. 

The idle speed screw on the front of the throttle body, and the air/fuel ratio screw on the vane meter is how its tuned. Very fiddly at times. 

isn't the IAC the thing that sets idle speed?

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isn't the IAC the thing that sets idle speed?
The ISC (Idle Speed Control) governs the idle by allowing certain amounts of air to bypass the throttle butterfly - like when AC is engaged or for fast idle on cold starts, but base idle is still set by winding a screw on the throttle body.

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There are 2 screws on throttle body. One sets the butterfly so it never closes completely and this is to stop the butterfly "sticking" in the closed position. Aka it improves pedal feel.  The other is an air bypass.

For tuning idle both the pip wire and the iac should be disconnected as both will alter the idle speed. And the eng should be fully warmed up. 

If eng is fully warmed up and the iac is still altering idle speed, (and ac is off) then that leads me back to the clt sensor as possibly faulty. 

A wideband sniffer can be used for adjusting the afm.

And why are they playing with the knock sensor? Just unplug it if you think it's an issue and it will stop interfearing with the tune.

I have never had the knock sensor cause any issues (and I've had a lot of issues) and tbh i don't know if they even worked from factory. 

 

I know what does work. An aftermarket ecu. And all future eng issues can usually be diagnosed by plugging in a laptop and "oh, the ECU isn't getting 'x'. So I'll fix that"

You can also enjoy better fuel economy and can fuck off the pesky afm and say hello to a couple extra ponies. All without changing the appearance at all if you are tricky and gut the afm and leave it installed.

I think they make plug in megasquirts now that use the factory harness and connector. Just add EGO and a MAP line. 

Outback Jack, SPACK and Thom like this

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Thanks for that bit of info CRAZY 2287, For all I know, the KNOCK SENSOR was never hooked up. I only saw 1 SCREW on the throttle body, did not know there were 2.I will have another look. These after market COMPUTER,S...Whom sells them and are they up here in QUEENSLAND/BRISBANE?

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Ok, went and had a look at the accelerator STOP, near the throttle body and there is a ADJUSTMENT SCREW there, wound that back a bit, opened the AIR screw on the throttle body and its at around the 1000 rpm mark, went and put 25 dollars in of 98 ron...took it for a 15 min drive and it seems ok...however when I " GET UP IT"...there is a definite miss, so something is still not right...However ITS A LOT BETTER....

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A google got me here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/ford/ford-eec-iv/
 

But i thought i saw another mod had done one that was even more "Plug n play" and i'm pretty sure the XF used Ford EEC-IV ECU but get someone to confirm.
 

Also here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/available-models/
Which leads Here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-ford-60-pin-eec-iv-unassembled-kit-no-connector/

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I put another $25.00 in 98 ron in the old girl and took her for another run, the missing seems to be gone, and the idling is at about 900 rpm. So maybe it needs a good long run for the COMPUTER to LEARN..tell you what, I HAVE NOT DRIVEN THE OTHER 2 FORDS since I got this back..lol..By the way guys, I need to CLEAN my headlights...heard about tooth paste and 1200 sand paper..or is there a better way of doing this??

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On 5/16/2018 at 7:03 PM, Mr Polson said:

Good to hear it's sorted mate!

Added the photo you shared on Facebook to your post for you

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

THANK YOU..................

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I put another $25.00 in 98 ron in the old girl and took her for another run, the missing seems to be gone, and the idling is at about 900 rpm. So maybe it needs a good long run for the COMPUTER to LEARN..tell you what, I HAVE NOT DRIVEN THE OTHER 2 FORDS since I got this back..lol..By the way guys, I need to CLEAN my headlights...heard about tooth paste and 1200 sand paper..or is there a better way of doing this??


You've got glass headlights, so the toothpaste or sanding won't work, that's for more modern cars with the plastic headlight lenses

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@Crazy2287 mate one day id love to have a lengthy chat with you about running aftermarket ECU with my XF. I have bookmarked the links you posted above so i can do some reading etc. they seem a cheaper option than the way i was going to go. 
 

I was going go with a Stinger Performance Plug and Play ECU (for US EECIV Fords), which was going to set me back over $1000AUD by the time i got it here. but only 2 pins would have to be changed, and internally its a Megasquirt. the beauty was it would literally plug in and work. 

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