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Crossflow into Fox body mustang (1980-1982)

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6 hours ago, Slow250XC said:

He got biscuits on the back wheels. Average commonwhore from west auckland could do that.

Lol at least he didnt stack it like half the commo driving dickheads do out this way.

Always fun to see a fresh set of skidmarks that end with chunks of bumper and glass....fuckin spastics

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For me it'd have to be a crossflow for the simple fact it'd practically be a bolt in fit with minimal modifactions to the car. Its the ease of it that makes it so appealing and why haven't people here in Australia done this yet.

The essex v6 was available for fox mustang, but inline is fine engine for that car.

 

I have 3.3 in my -80 notchback fox, with t5. I'd love to swap crossflow to it but I need to do the body first. Just moved firewall ~15 cm back and I'm building tubular K-member to move wheels 15 cm forward. Maybe I need to do testing with stock engine and then build some performance inline later.

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9 hours ago, Firebolt said:

The essex v6 was available for fox mustang, but inline is fine engine for that car.

 

I have 3.3 in my -80 notchback fox, with t5. I'd love to swap crossflow to it but I need to do the body first. Just moved firewall ~15 cm back and I'm building tubular K-member to move wheels 15 cm forward. Maybe I need to do testing with stock engine and then build some performance inline later.

would love to see a build thread of what you are doing here, why are you moving the wheels forward for starters?

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10 hours ago, Firebolt said:

The essex v6 was available for fox mustang, but inline is fine engine for that car.

 

I have 3.3 in my -80 notchback fox, with t5. I'd love to swap crossflow to it but I need to do the body first. Just moved firewall ~15 cm back and I'm building tubular K-member to move wheels 15 cm forward. Maybe I need to do testing with stock engine and then build some performance inline later.

I have a question, are the engine bays the same for the v6 and inline 6? 

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The US Essex V6 was in no way related to the Capri/Granada 60 degree UK one. The US Essex was esentially a copy of the Buick 90 deg design but with alloy heads, made in Essex, Canada.

Being 90 degrees, it's pretty wide compared to the 60 deg Cologne V6, so the engine bay would have been wide enough for that and the windsor from the start.

It appears that inlines were fitted from 78-82, and needed a specific K-member.

Here's a thread about inlines into fox mustangs:

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?t=47758

Seems that without starting with the right K-member body for the inline, you can improvise with a Cortina sump.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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I have a question, are the engine bays the same for the v6 and inline 6? 
Yes, only different k-member.

Sorry, foxes where awailable with cologne 2.8 v6, and later with essex 3.8 v6.

I'm increasing wheelbase for better weight ratio and want to run this car with 10 deg caster.

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Yes, only different k-member.

Sorry, foxes where awailable with cologne 2.8 v6, and later with essex 3.8 v6.

I'm increasing wheelbase for better weight ratio and want to run this car with 10 deg caster.
Sorry didn't mean to sound like I was correcting you. I'm sure you know more about Fox bodies than all of us put together. Just clarifying the difference between two unrelated Ford V6s that they decided to call the same name..... smart people

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Sorry didn't mean to sound like I was correcting you. I'm sure you know more about Fox bodies than all of us put together. Just clarifying the difference between two unrelated Ford V6s that they decided to call the same name..... smart people

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I'm not sure if I know anything, it's ok to correct me anytime.

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On 17/03/2018 at 5:34 PM, Firebolt said:

Here are some pics, the starting point and how it looks like now. I'm not good at taking photos and my garage is always messy...4948ee52ef6545e7d8ca308577779a74.jpg00fbac5db812f85c479cd7e89bd14f9e.jpg09b1969b6bbb9bed4495e0c93cea2c22.jpg

Thats some pretty cool stuff there, cant wait to see it finished.

My plans are to start with a 3.3 probably an 81 as they seem to be the most common with the inline six. I want to minimise the amount of fabrication and mods, so i can focus on spending on the drivetrain and suspension.

Probably wont work out like planned (it never does), but from my research the aussie block shares most of the same mounting points for the mounts and accessories,  if i go an auto, a C4 should bolt up in place of the factory C3, the starter will be on the opposite  side to the factory one but shouldn't be a challange. A cortina sump will solve the K frame issue (could just pull the entire crossy from my TE). Will need to fabricate some throttle linkages but i havent decided about carbs yet so that will go hand in hand.

I reckon that i will come across plenty of other issues along the way but gotta clear the first hurdle, getting the car in the first place.

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Well it’s been 7 months from my last visit here, I got most of the body now welded. Only a few holes left and front frame rails, but I had to move the car 300 kilometers away. Need some pause since I quit my job and I’m going to finish school and maybe moving to some other place after that. So here is something I’ve done to my pony:


I had to change all the plans I had for front end, since extending cars wheelbase isn’t allowed in here for road cars. I’ve played more with Harleys and in theory you could build a chopper with almost twice the original wheelbase in here, if it passes some handling tests (and is properly build, of course). But for example, extending cars wheelbase 5 cm you need to ask some permissions and write a ton of papers and wait for the answer, and after getting it you can actually do something (or not if it is denied for no given reason).

I could go with the outlaw way and just be quiet, but yearly inspections may be hard that way and all the modifications will be marked up in next inspection, to get these for insurance.


So I ended up purchasing BMW E46 k-member, spindles, shocks etc. and I’m building frame rails from 60mm x 80mm square tubing. (I’m not sure about the right word for these in English). They are still at machine shop waiting for holes to be drilled, I want to make this thing properly so I calculated k-member attaching points and they are CNC milled for the right places.

The firewall is now all ready, I moved it total 15 cm, and now my engine sits nicely:

f55550766f55228894be0136152b9ece.jpg

182baa84f018e8298be0bd8ea21a1b73.jpg

The suprising thing with the BMW parts is that engine mounts don’t need any offset when engine is this far back. Almost like I would have designed it that way, but they just happened to be aligned.

The other thing is they are super light compared to Ford parts. The car weights originally 1250 kg, with this front end and some other modifications it would be possible to get it ~1100 kg, or at least I hope so. BMW k-member with control arms weighted 11.7 kg and Ford part is 26.9 kg without control arms, maximum motorsports arms are 3.8 kg each, so there is almost 23 kg difference and I’m talking about three parts. Steering rack is alloy instead of Ford steel part, spindles are lighter so I can have the same unsprung mass with bigger brakes and I have a few glassfiber parts that save weight pretty much. So I might have hope.

The downside is that I need to modify my valvecover to make oil filling possibly. This won’t be a problem if someone would sell crossflow head to me, because all this stuff in this topic is pointless if I don’t get this car running with crossflow.

And some smiley here. :)

I hope you can understand at least 10% of what I’m talking, it’s 3 am here when I’m writing this.

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Someone mention fox body goodness?
 
https://bangshift.com/bangshift1320/this-mustang-nosed-1981-ford-fairmont-is-a-big-block-powered-bangshifty-dream-machine/64d6881be358cce05f7fba40098952b1.jpg
 
Anybody recognise this tailgate?
 
 
 
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12445e6ffdd884dfb23e94a18197d844.jpg
I'm not 100%, but XD-F wagon tailgates look identical. I have a feeling that Ford Oz used them off-the-shelf.

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Well it’s been 7 months from my last visit here, I got most of the body now welded. Only a few holes left and front frame rails, but I had to move the car 300 kilometers away. Need some pause since I quit my job and I’m going to finish school and maybe moving to some other place after that. So here is something I’ve done to my pony:


I had to change all the plans I had for front end, since extending cars wheelbase isn’t allowed in here for road cars. I’ve played more with Harleys and in theory you could build a chopper with almost twice the original wheelbase in here, if it passes some handling tests (and is properly build, of course). But for example, extending cars wheelbase 5 cm you need to ask some permissions and write a ton of papers and wait for the answer, and after getting it you can actually do something (or not if it is denied for no given reason).

I could go with the outlaw way and just be quiet, but yearly inspections may be hard that way and all the modifications will be marked up in next inspection, to get these for insurance.


So I ended up purchasing BMW E46 k-member, spindles, shocks etc. and I’m building frame rails from 60mm x 80mm square tubing. (I’m not sure about the right word for these in English). They are still at machine shop waiting for holes to be drilled, I want to make this thing properly so I calculated k-member attaching points and they are CNC milled for the right places.

The firewall is now all ready, I moved it total 15 cm, and now my engine sits nicely:

f55550766f55228894be0136152b9ece.jpg

182baa84f018e8298be0bd8ea21a1b73.jpg

The suprising thing with the BMW parts is that engine mounts don’t need any offset when engine is this far back. Almost like I would have designed it that way, but they just happened to be aligned.

The other thing is they are super light compared to Ford parts. The car weights originally 1250 kg, with this front end and some other modifications it would be possible to get it ~1100 kg, or at least I hope so. BMW k-member with control arms weighted 11.7 kg and Ford part is 26.9 kg without control arms, maximum motorsports arms are 3.8 kg each, so there is almost 23 kg difference and I’m talking about three parts. Steering rack is alloy instead of Ford steel part, spindles are lighter so I can have the same unsprung mass with bigger brakes and I have a few glassfiber parts that save weight pretty much. So I might have hope.

The downside is that I need to modify my valvecover to make oil filling possibly. This won’t be a problem if someone would sell crossflow head to me, because all this stuff in this topic is pointless if I don’t get this car running with crossflow.

And some smiley here.

I hope you can understand at least 10% of what I’m talking, it’s 3 am here when I’m writing this.
This build is off chops.... Love the lateral thinking and fab skills.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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