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B-series Falcon Torque specifications

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Torque is a twisting force applied to a shaft.

 

A Newton-metre is one kind of torque measurement when a linear force (N) is applied to the end of a one-metre lever. Sometimes quoted as kg-m (9.8N=1kg).

 

Foot-pounds is the same thing but instead measured in pounds acting on the end of a one foot lever.

 

Inch-pounds is a smaller measurement scale used on delicate things like valve bodies.

 

Torquing bolts is done using a torque wrench. It has an adjustable point at which it clicks to let you know when the right torque is reached.

 

Torque (or bolt tension) is specified so that the fastener is not under-or over-tightened. Some things are critical, other things really only need to be spanner-tight.

 

What exactly are you tightening?

 

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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I have bought new parts for brakes suspension rotors hubs I am just following what the manual says but it has different torqueing specifications  for certain bolts photos for example

 

Screenshot_20180220-185415.jpg

Screenshot_20180220-185536.jpg

Screenshot_20180220-185332.jpg

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i'll say the brake hose banjo bolt breaks easy if done up too tight.. . 
if you are replacing the brake hoses, the nut on them can be a proper pain to undo, even with pipe spanners.. spray them with CRC or penetrene etc, wire brush the threads and find the best fitting spanner you can get your hands on for them.. (or get a professional to change them)
there is a locking compound on some of the caliper bolts also, i think the brake kit i bought had new bolts with locking compound on them already,

watch some youtube clips, there would be many videos on every aspect of what you are doing.. including how to set a torque wrench

 

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Agreed +1.

Banjo bolts wil break if overtightened, they have a friggin huge hole in the bolt.!  Wire brush penetrating fluid, leave over night if possible.

Sometimes a sharp, hard crack with a hammer can help, but, spanner must be a good fit and you must have the spanner at 90 deg to the bolt and hit in the right direction.

 

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The specs are supplied simply to cover the manufacturer's arse when providing a maintenance/repair procedure. In my experience as a mechanic, there are very few things that actually need to be precisely torqued on a vehicle. They are:

Engine internals (including flywheel)
Diff internals (including pinion preload)
Automatic valve bodies and other internals
Wheel bearings

And rear caliper pin bolts on an older Ford (pre-EF) where the alloy is soft as shit and chews out when dickheads hammer the crap out of them with an impact gun turned up to 11.

So for most things, common sense is your friend. The length of the spanner is generally the right leverage to comfortably reach the correct tension on the bolt size it's designed for.

Don't grab a 3-foot breaker bar and reef on the 6mm bolts holding your radio in. Conversely, don't go tightening a suspension arm bolt with multigrips. That would be bad, m'kay?

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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The reason a range is used, such as 10-14nm, Is because that torque is likely set by the fixing hardware. Not component specific or critical. Generic values are sometimes given as a range. You can usually get generic fixing torques from the standard practice sections of the manual. There will be a table which offers a torque range based on bolt size, tensile strength, locking mechanism (Nylon insert) and thread lubrication.
Other times, It may be hardware that has mechanical locking. Like a split pin or lock wire, You can go to the lower torque, and tighten further till the locking solution is aligned (you can get the split pin in).
Or it may be a bolt that requires re-torques. In this case you go to the maximum torque (14nm). Then when the re-torque is due, you go to a lower torque for the torque check (12nm) and ensure the bolt does not turn before the lower torque is reached, this indicates it has retained it's torque, and there is no cause for alarm, if it does move, there may be hardware or component failure. If you set the re-torque to 14nm, and the nut turns, it may be due to hardware failure, or, it could just be due to inconsistencies in the torque wrench or small changes in temperature changing the clamping force (torque) slightly. and you wont know. So you have to treat it as a failure anyway, even though there is a good chance it wasn't.

and finally, If it's hardware with a sealing surface, If it leaks, you can increase torque to the maximum. If it still leaks once the upper of the range is reached, Its time to replace the o-ring or machine the mating surfaces.

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