Tim Semerdjian 3 Posted January 30, 2018 G'day . I've got a 2002 series 3 AU Ute. Suddenly wont start . Replaced = fuel filter , fuel lines , injector rail , injectors , coil pack , leads , plugs, crank sensor . Injectors don't " click " when ignition is turned on .It has been diagnosed twice , yet no codes appear . The computer was reset , still no start . Does anyone have any ideas as to what the fault could be . Thanks Tim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,639 Posted January 31, 2018 Is it or has it ever been on gas? If so check the earth for the injectors if it has spark it should also have injectors as they are tied in together Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim Semerdjian 3 Posted January 31, 2018 no mate , never on gas . has injector and crank pulse . fuel pressure flows like a tap , . If I spray aerostart etc.... it runs until burnt away then stops .not even the diagnostic bloke could find anything wrong ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 31, 2018 It obviously has crank angle because the ignition needsit to run. Dunno if AUs are like on earlier EEC IV models regarding smartlock module, etc but that might be another avenue to take.My EF had a similar problem, found out via an auto sparky there was some corrosion on the back of the fuse panel giving intermittent injector pulse. He jiggled the wiring around and it came good.I can't remember how injectors fire exactly but I seem to remember they're constant positive feed and switched with the negative back through the computer (Thom am I right?). If so, you could pull off a plug and check for 12v with a multi or test light.Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,639 Posted January 31, 2018 It obviously has crank angle because the ignition needsit to run. Dunno if AUs are like on earlier EEC IV models regarding smartlock module, etc but that might be another avenue to take.My EF had a similar problem, found out via an auto sparky there was some corrosion on the back of the fuse panel giving intermittent injector pulse. He jiggled the wiring around and it came good.I can't remember how injectors fire exactly but I seem to remember they're constant positive feed and switched with the negative back through the computer (Thom am I right?). If so, you could pull off a plug and check for 12v with a multi or test light.Sent from my CPH1607 using TapatalkI can't remember on that one it's been a looong time since I last played with a 4.0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted January 31, 2018 So I guess you mean the injectors aren’t pulsing on crank?If so check your earths, check the main harness plug on the inlet manifold between cylinders 5 & 6 ( check at this plug for pulse as well). You will need a mood light or LED test light to check for pulse, DO NOT USE A CONVENTIONAL TEST LIGHT!.After that check for pulse at the ecu. What do you mean by the ecu was reset?If smart shield cuts in it won’t crank, no spark or injector pulse. 2 Thom and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted January 31, 2018 I should add that what I wrote above is to be done after all fuses and relays have been checked- assumptions are dangerous but I am assuming your auto sparky did this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim Semerdjian 3 Posted January 31, 2018 I'm getting an auto locksmith today to rule out the opticle sensor . But now the damb thing has no ignition at all . The saga continues. It was starting ok before l disconnected the alternator to do rust repairs but l only disconnected the alternator ,nothing else . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted January 31, 2018 Series 3 smart shield uses a carbon chip in the key and an inductive pick up around the barrel, not an optical sensor. Your thinking of smartlock which finished at the end of au series 1. If it’s not registering the key the key light in the instrument cluster will flash. If it starts and keeps flashing DO NOT TURN IT OFF you get three attempts before it locks down with smart shield, after that it needs to go to Ford.You probably blew a fuse when welding. You should disconnect the battery and earth out the body when welding on a canbus vehicle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim Semerdjian 3 Posted February 1, 2018 thanks l did disconnect the battery as well , l should have mentioned that all symtoms tell me now , that it is more likely than not , that it's the ignition system the sparky has been twice and diagnosed it twice , yet he still cant find the problem , no codes showing etc he went through the elimination process , and ended ringing a ford mechanic who said it could be the EBCM under the dash above the left knee and /or the instrument cluster so far that's as far as we've gotten until the key guy comes around and does his bit like sands of time in the hour glass , so are the days of our fords ( Cue Music ) 2 bear351c and Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Bretherton 26 Posted February 14, 2018 thanks l did disconnect the battery as well , l should have mentioned that all symtoms tell me now , that it is more likely than not , that it's the ignition system the sparky has been twice and diagnosed it twice , yet he still cant find the problem , no codes showing etc he went through the elimination process , and ended ringing a ford mechanic who said it could be the EBCM under the dash above the left knee and /or the instrument cluster so far that's as far as we've gotten until the key guy comes around and does his bit like sands of time in the hour glass , so are the days of our fords ( Cue Music ) My 2 vehicle is au2 ute I had similar prob after fuel pump problem. had ecu rebuilt $800 found 2 and 3 gear sensor fryd by previous owner .not a prob now.Sent from my HUAWEI Y360-U03 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim Semerdjian 3 Posted February 14, 2018 Well !! How dumb am l !!! After going through the system again , removing the fuel pressure solenoid , I noticed the fuel had an odd colour and smell . Bugger me , the problem all along was contaminated fuel from the local fuel station . Running like a bought one now . Peeeeerrrrrfffeect . 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted February 14, 2018 Excellent. Glad you found the issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted February 14, 2018 Well !! How dumb am l !!! After going through the system again , removing the fuel pressure solenoid , I noticed the fuel had an odd colour and smell . Bugger me , the problem all along was contaminated fuel from the local fuel station . Running like a bought one now . Peeeeerrrrrfffeect .:rolleyes:Not dumb at all. It's really the last place anyone would look because shitty fuel normally just makes an engine run rough, not completely cut out, nada, nobody home. How friggin bad must the fuel have been to do that?Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites