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Tim Semerdjian

electrical problem

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G'day . I've got a 2002 series 3 AU Ute. Suddenly wont start .

Replaced =  fuel filter , fuel lines , injector rail , injectors , coil pack , leads , plugs, crank sensor . Injectors don't " click " when ignition is turned on .It has been diagnosed twice , yet no codes appear . The computer was reset , still no start .

Does anyone have any ideas as to what the fault could be .

Thanks 

Tim

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Is it or has it ever been on gas? If so check the earth for the injectors if it has spark it should also have injectors as they are tied in together

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no mate , never on gas .

has injector and crank pulse . fuel pressure flows like a tap , . If I spray aerostart etc.... it runs until burnt away then stops .not even the diagnostic bloke could find anything wrong ??

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It obviously has crank angle because the ignition needsit to run. Dunno if AUs are like on earlier EEC IV models regarding smartlock module, etc but that might be another avenue to take.

My EF had a similar problem, found out via an auto sparky there was some corrosion on the back of the fuse panel giving intermittent injector pulse. He jiggled the wiring around and it came good.

I can't remember how injectors fire exactly but I seem to remember they're constant positive feed and switched with the negative back through the computer (Thom am I right?). If so, you could pull off a plug and check for 12v with a multi or test light.

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It obviously has crank angle because the ignition needsit to run. Dunno if AUs are like on earlier EEC IV models regarding smartlock module, etc but that might be another avenue to take.

My EF had a similar problem, found out via an auto sparky there was some corrosion on the back of the fuse panel giving intermittent injector pulse. He jiggled the wiring around and it came good.

I can't remember how injectors fire exactly but I seem to remember they're constant positive feed and switched with the negative back through the computer (Thom am I right?). If so, you could pull off a plug and check for 12v with a multi or test light.

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I can't remember on that one it's been a looong time since I last played with a 4.0

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So I guess you mean the injectors aren’t pulsing on crank?
If so check your earths, check the main harness plug on the inlet manifold between cylinders 5 & 6 ( check at this plug for pulse as well). You will need a mood light or LED test light to check for pulse, DO NOT USE A CONVENTIONAL TEST LIGHT!.
After that check for pulse at the ecu.
What do you mean by the ecu was reset?
If smart shield cuts in it won’t crank, no spark or injector pulse.

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I'm getting an auto locksmith today to rule out the opticle sensor .

But now the damb thing has no ignition at all . The saga continues.

It was starting ok before  l disconnected the alternator to do rust repairs but l only disconnected the alternator ,nothing else .

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Series 3 smart shield uses a carbon chip in the key and an inductive pick up around the barrel, not an optical sensor. Your thinking of smartlock which finished at the end of au series 1. If it’s not registering the key the key light in the instrument cluster will flash. If it starts and keeps flashing DO NOT TURN IT OFF you get three attempts before it locks down with smart shield, after that it needs to go to Ford.

You probably blew a fuse when welding. You should disconnect the battery and earth out the body when welding on a canbus vehicle.

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thanks  l did disconnect the battery as well , l should have mentioned that  all symtoms tell me now , that it is more likely than not , that it's the ignition system the sparky has been twice and diagnosed it twice , yet he still cant find the problem , no codes showing etc 

he went through the elimination process , and ended ringing a ford mechanic who said it could be the EBCM under the dash above the left knee and /or the instrument cluster 

so far that's as far as we've gotten until the key guy comes around and does his bit 

like sands of time in the hour glass , so are the days of our fords  (  Cue Music  ) :rolleyes::unsure:

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thanks  l did disconnect the battery as well , l should have mentioned that  all symtoms tell me now , that it is more likely than not , that it's the ignition system the sparky has been twice and diagnosed it twice , yet he still cant find the problem , no codes showing etc 
he went through the elimination process , and ended ringing a ford mechanic who said it could be the EBCM under the dash above the left knee and /or the instrument cluster 
so far that's as far as we've gotten until the key guy comes around and does his bit 
like sands of time in the hour glass , so are the days of our fords  (  Cue Music  ) :rolleyes::unsure:
My 2 vehicle is au2 ute I had similar prob after fuel pump problem. had ecu rebuilt $800 found 2 and 3 gear sensor fryd by previous owner .not a prob now.

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Well !! How dumb am l !!! After going through the system again , removing the fuel pressure solenoid , I noticed the fuel had an odd colour and smell .

Bugger me , the problem all along was contaminated fuel from the local fuel station .

Running like a bought one now . Peeeeerrrrrfffeect .:rolleyes::rolleyes:

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Well !! How dumb am l !!! After going through the system again , removing the fuel pressure solenoid , I noticed the fuel had an odd colour and smell .
Bugger me , the problem all along was contaminated fuel from the local fuel station .
Running like a bought one now . Peeeeerrrrrfffeect .:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Not dumb at all. It's really the last place anyone would look because shitty fuel normally just makes an engine run rough, not completely cut out, nada, nobody home. How friggin bad must the fuel have been to do that?

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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