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xhadyboy

Lucas engine diagnoser

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Wow that's a blast from the past. For starters, it's not sitting on zero so it needs adjusting on that little trim slot at the bottom. If you already understand dwell and old-school stuff like that, then it's fairly self-explanatory.

Unless you're running points, dwell is irrelevant. In that case, be very thankful that they fucked that shit off a long time ago. Even dyed-in-the-wool points and carby guys will happily drop an electronic dizzy in and throw the points as far as they can off a wharf, into very deep water, preferably with a large rock attached.

To find out what wires go where, look up any analog engine analysers that are like this. They're all pretty much the same in operation. Most operations are only measuring volts or frequency (tacho) with the exception of amps, so the only way you'll break it is by connecting across pos and neg terminals with amps selected. This will likely pop a fuse inside. It might have already popped one and could be why it was 2 bucks. Likely to be a glass fuse which you can get from Jaycar or some auto parts places.

Were you wanting to measure a particular thing or just generally interested in it?

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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Me and Jack are going to put a s Pack dash into the Xe soon ,so I wanted to check the in dash tacho calibration.

Soon going thermos and I have a  Zl here for bits and I was told they have a 60 amp alternator as opposed to the 40 amps in the falcons ?

So I thought it would be a way to check ,as far  as Auto electrics go Gerg, I make a mighty clever irrigation plumber,lol

 

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Sure i can relate to the tacho thing. Did this in mine, calibrated a 6 cyl tacho to 8.

Positive goes to battery, or coil pos, negative to coil neg to measure rpm.

To measure amps, you need to go between the alternator and the battery in series, and load it up with something that will draw max amps, say a very flat battery or about 8 spotties lol and see what it says.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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