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Searley

1999 XH Ute 125,000kms Blown Head Gasket

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Hello Fellow Ford Men & Women.My XH Longreach Starting Blowing Pure Snow White Smoke Like A Nightclub Fog Machine While Playing Deep Purples "Smoke On The Water "Dureing The Victor Harbor Rock & Roll Festival.Lucky The Cops Did'nt See Me.It Was'nt Hot Or Overheating Or Working Hard.I Bought a Chinese Made Head Gasket That Some Of The Holes Were Not Even On The Gasket Compared To The Old Original Ford Gasket.I Heard Different Stories Of :Don't Use Any Sealant"To Use Just A Little Bit Around The Water Port Holes.Anyway It Did'nt Work.Some Very Knowledgeable People Said That These Type Of Ford Motors Are Reknown  For Having Head Gasket Problems Even If The Don't Overheat Or Low Mileage. Is There A Better Type Of SOHC Motor That's Reliable?Is It Legal To Put A DOHC Barra Motor In That 1999 Year In South Oz.I'm Even Thinking Of Putting In A 200 Cu/In Cast Iron Head Crossflow And Adapt The Fuel Injection Manifold Just To Have A Reliable Car.Can Anybody Help Me.Thank You For Your Time.

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AU motors are probably the most reliable of the Ford 4.0 SOHC. By then Ford went with a multi layer steel head gasket which solved the head gasket issue.

You can install an AU gasket into the older 4.0

Did you have the head machined? If not it was almost always going to blow again.

DOHC 4.0 (Barra) swaps are fairly simple and straightforward into the older X series.
Whether it would need a mod plate seems to vary greatly depending on who you ask and what state you're from.
Probably the best way to get a more powerful motor.

Xflow swap would never be legal due to emmisions, even if you went injected. Could also have clearance issues with the XH steering setup.

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new head bolts and an AU head gasket is the recommended fix..

assuming the head is still dead flat(could get it machined while off but at least check it's not corroded around water ports or warped by using a straight edge across it, should be fine if not overheated

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Ok. Firstly to clear up the misunderstanding, the only reason ef/early el and xh ohc blew head gaskets from factory were because of defective head bolts. The head of the bolt would break off. Ford themselves took responsibility for this back in the day and did a recall to replace head bolts before their clamping pressure released from the head breaking off and blowing the head gasket as a result.

I run a mls (multi layer steel) head gasket in my ute with the block decked 5 thou and 20 thou off the head. As Chris and Dean have said, you must have the head serviced and machined flat. Also you need to check the block, if there is pitting around the coolant galleries it will need to have the face machined. An mls head gasket has no give like a graphite head gasket. The mls one is actually designed so that the outer 2 layers will adhere to the head and block then as it heats and expands (remember aluminium head will expand more than an iron block) then once cool return to its normal seated position. Ford did this so they could run cylinder shut down technology in the case of over heating in au falcons.
Go buy yourself a good quality permaseal mls head gasket and be prepared to pay. Buy permaseal head bolts also. Any company willing to cast the part number in the head is worth using. I sprayed a light coating of hylomar on the head gasket before fitting. Follow the torque specs that come with the gasket. They are different from the graphite ones.
A Barra conversion into a xh is harder than all other x series because it runs a ef/el sub frame with less clearance for the alloy sump.

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On ‎25‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 10:39 PM, Mr Polson said:

AU motors are probably the most reliable of the Ford 4.0 SOHC. By then Ford went with a multi layer steel head gasket which solved the head gasket issue.

You can install an AU gasket into the older 4.0

Did you have the head machined? If not it was almost always going to blow again.

DOHC 4.0 (Barra) swaps are fairly simple and straightforward into the older X series.
Whether it would need a mod plate seems to vary greatly depending on who you ask and what state you're from.
Probably the best way to get a more powerful motor.

Xflow swap would never be legal due to emmisions, even if you went injected. Could also have clearance issues with the XH steering setup.

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Hi Mr.Polson,Thank You For Clarifying The Answer Picture,Why Do You Say The X-Flow Would'nt Be Legal Due To Emissions?I'd Still Use A Catalytic Converter. Still It Would Have To Be Legal Due To Insurance Reasons.If I Had A Prang With A $Hi-Dollar Car The Insurance Companies Will Do Anything To Get Out Of Paying!Anyway Thanks.

 

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On ‎26‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 6:34 AM, Valvebouncer said:

Ok. Firstly to clear up the misunderstanding, the only reason ef/early el and xh ohc blew head gaskets from factory were because of defective head bolts. The head of the bolt would break off. Ford themselves took responsibility for this back in the day and did a recall to replace head bolts before their clamping pressure released from the head breaking off and blowing the head gasket as a result.

I run a mls (multi layer steel) head gasket in my ute with the block decked 5 thou and 20 thou off the head. As Chris and Dean have said, you must have the head serviced and machined flat. Also you need to check the block, if there is pitting around the coolant galleries it will need to have the face machined. An mls head gasket has no give like a graphite head gasket. The mls one is actually designed so that the outer 2 layers will adhere to the head and block then as it heats and expands (remember aluminium head will expand more than an iron block) then once cool return to its normal seated position. Ford did this so they could run cylinder shut down technology in the case of over heating in au falcons.
Go buy yourself a good quality permaseal mls head gasket and be prepared to pay. Buy permaseal head bolts also. Any company willing to cast the part number in the head is worth using. I sprayed a light coating of hylomar on the head gasket before fitting. Follow the torque specs that come with the gasket. They are different from the graphite ones.
A Barra conversion into a xh is harder than all other x series because it runs a ef/el sub frame with less clearance for the alloy sump.

Greetings Mr.ValveBouncer,Thanks For The Experienced Knowledge.If The Block Has To Be Machined I Assume That The Motor Has To Come Out.Funny Thing I Took The Head To Be Tested And Shaved To Places That Have The Equipment And Used To Do Them But They Don't Do That Work Anymore Because It's Not As $Profitable. When I Took Off The Rocker Cover All The Heads Were On The Bolt But The Last 2 Bolts At The Rear Of Motor Were Incredibly Tight/Hard To Undo.Anyway I'll Take The Head To A Proper A Head Place Get It Tested & Shaved And The Block As Well,Permaseal AU Gasket,Permaseal Head Bolts & Hylomar,etc.Once Again I Appreciate Your Input.It's Nice To Have Success When Fixing Stuff.Best Regards Searley.

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On ‎25‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 11:11 PM, deankdx said:

new head bolts and an AU head gasket is the recommended fix..

assuming the head is still dead flat(could get it machined while off but at least check it's not corroded around water ports or warped by using a straight edge across it, should be fine if not overheated

Hi deankdx,Thanks For Your Time And Advice,@ Least I'm On The Right Track Now,Best Regards Searley.

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Your so polite!

You will find that many machine shops are doing less and less these days and unfortunately it’s growing. Try finding a decent crank grinder at a reasonable price in Sydney, you almost have to look outside the city.
Yes, you will have to remove the engine for the block to be machined and all the internals too. The back two bolts were probably still holding tension and the others had stretched, hence why they were still tight- they still had clamping pressure.

Good luck with the build, feel free to post photos and ask more questions about anything you are unsure of. Better to ask a question that you think is silly than bugger something up!

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Hi Mr.Polson,Thank You For Clarifying The Answer Picture,Why Do You Say The X-Flow Would'nt Be Legal Due To Emissions?I'd Still Use A Catalytic Converter. Still It Would Have To Be Legal Due To Insurance Reasons.If I Had A Prang With A $Hi-Dollar Car The Insurance Companies Will Do Anything To Get Out Of Paying!Anyway Thanks.
 

No matter how you look at it, a stock 4.0 is a much more efficient, cleaner engine than a xflow.
Remember a xflow was introduced in the 70's, made for leaded fuel, and has a whole heap of anti-pollution gear - EGR, pulse air injection, very restricted carbies (worse as time went on).

A 4.0 was designed for unleaded and to meet much more stringent rules - which is why they don't have things like the EGR or pulse air.

I'd hazard a guess that there may be different ADRs for a 4.0 which a xflow would never be able to meet.
Your so polite!

You will find that many machine shops are doing less and less these days and unfortunately it’s growing. Try finding a decent crank grinder at a reasonable price in Sydney, you almost have to look outside the city.
Yes, you will have to remove the engine for the block to be machined and all the internals too. The back two bolts were probably still holding tension and the others had stretched, hence why they were still tight- they still had clamping pressure.

Good luck with the build, feel free to post photos and ask more questions about anything you are unsure of. Better to ask a question that you think is silly than bugger something up!
That's the way with just about everything.

We almost never sell heads at work, it's whole engines and even then that's very rare these days. Cars are just disposable once they become faulty to a lot of people.

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Thanks for the history lesson VB, you learn something every day!

 

I will add that crossflows had head gasket issues too, and I would put that down to being a long inline engine, iron block/alloy head which means lots of movement over the length of the engine due to expansion. Have you ever heard of an iron head crossy doing a head gasket?

 

This would be a factor in the OHC engines as well, plus the head bolt issue and you have the perfect storm. You definitely cannot run one hot. As soon as you cook one, you're doing a head gasket, simple as that.

 

My EF did a gasket but seems to have happened in reverse ie: the gasket weeped coolant around a bolt, corroded it and it snapped off just above the block surface. A couple of years later, the engine cooked on the motorway and locked up (heater hose) and from that point on, started using coolant again, so must have done the gasket once more. I used Hylomar the first time too. Didn't bother doing it, just put in some "Seal-it" and forgot about it.

 

The MLS gasket as you mentioned eliminates the expansion problem and this has largely solved the head gasket issue.

 

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In SA, you cant put an older engine in a newer car. EG: they wont let you put a Cleveland in an EF, but you can put a newer engine in an older car, with a mod plate.
That's pretty much across the board now, with all emissions gear related to the engine requiring fitment also.

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Most common reason for blown head gasket that people don't realise. they don't change the coolant at the proper intervals.

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I've got several higher km OHC's, still on the original head gasket.
And several lower km OHC's, which have blown head gaskets.

All around the ED-EL era.
Definitely nothing with MLS gaskets.

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On ‎28‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 0:15 AM, Mr Polson said:


No matter how you look at it, a stock 4.0 is a much more efficient, cleaner engine than a xflow.
Remember a xflow was introduced in the 70's, made for leaded fuel, and has a whole heap of anti-pollution gear - EGR, pulse air injection, very restricted carbies (worse as time went on).

A 4.0 was designed for unleaded and to meet much more stringent rules - which is why they don't have things like the EGR or pulse air.

I'd hazard a guess that there may be different ADRs for a 4.0 which a xflow would never be able to meet.
That's the way with just about everything.

We almost never sell heads at work, it's whole engines and even then that's very rare these days. Cars are just disposable once they become faulty to a lot of people.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

Hello Mr.Polson,Searley here again.Before I take my El 1999 XH Ford Head to a shop to get Crack/Pressure Tested & Shaved There's a Guy that has an AU Motor 200,000Kms with a Jim Mock Head Kit Dev3,meaning Double valve springs & Hi-Lift Cam,Variable valve timeing.Can this AU Head be Fitted Ok to my existing enginge?If so do I use my existing fuel injection system or keep with the already attached System.I can see from the photos it has different type of manifold? What about Fords Multi-Coil Ignition system.Can that be adapted? Anyway Send me some of your Wisdom & Knowledge.Much Appreciated,Searley.

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Hello Mr.Polson,Searley here again.Before I take my El 1999 XH Ford Head to a shop to get Crack/Pressure Tested & Shaved There's a Guy that has an AU Motor 200,000Kms with a Jim Mock Head Kit Dev3,meaning Double valve springs & Hi-Lift Cam,Variable valve timeing.Can this AU Head be Fitted Ok to my existing enginge?If so do I use my existing fuel injection system or keep with the already attached System.I can see from the photos it has different type of manifold? What about Fords Multi-Coil Ignition system.Can that be adapted? Anyway Send me some of your Wisdom & Knowledge.Much Appreciated,Searley.
Use the head cam and rocker gear off the au if you are going to use that head but still use your original intake, injectors, sensors and wiring loom, I wouldn't worry about trying to change to coil packs as that is a mammoth undertaking involving re wiring half the car to do it
Thought about shoving the whole AU engine in.??
You'd need to have the sump modified on the au engine to fit as it would hit the k frame, it's also a massive pain in the arse to get the tensioners and accessories to work together when you mix and match au and xh together as the xh stuff is unique to xh and the au stuff doesn't interchange without hitting the sub rails in the car (ask me how I know)

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I wouldn't say wizard, I've just pulled a shit ton of them apart


Your the closest thing we have to a wizard, so learn to live with your new title!!

AU sump into a xh/ef-el k frame is a tight fit like you said the sump will have to be cut and shut where as on an xg it can just be ground down to clear.

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8 hours ago, Thom said:

Use the head cam and rocker gear off the au if you are going to use that head but still use your original intake, injectors, sensors and wiring loom, I wouldn't worry about trying to change to coil packs as that is a mammoth undertaking involving re wiring half the car to do itYou'd need to have the sump modified on the au engine to fit as it would hit the k frame, it's also a massive pain in the arse to get the tensioners and accessories to work together when you mix and match au and xh together as the xh stuff is unique to xh and the au stuff doesn't interchange without hitting the sub rails in the car (ask me how I know)

Hello Mr.Bear351,Yes I'm starting to lean that way.Don't want a Massive Pain Ordeal Mixing & Matching Parts & Bolts & Nuts That First Should/Might Go Together But They Never Will.I Never Thought Of That Coz I Just Assume That Most Of Those Things Would Be Exactly The Same To Make It $Cheaper & Easier For FORD Themselves,But As You Get More Experience With Anything You Have To Throw A Lot Out The Window And Start Again,You Like Playing Monoploy,"Go Back To Jail-Do Not Pass Go!" Thanks For Saveing Me Getting A Brain Tumour!,Searley.

 

 

8 hours ago, Thom said:

Use the head cam and rocker gear off the au if you are going to use that head but still use your original intake, injectors, sensors and wiring loom, I wouldn't worry about trying to change to coil packs as that is a mammoth undertaking involving re wiring half the car to do itYou'd need to have the sump modified on the au engine to fit as it would hit the k frame, it's also a massive pain in the arse to get the tensioners and accessories to work together when you mix and match au and xh together as the xh stuff is unique to xh and the au stuff doesn't interchange without hitting the sub rails in the car (ask me how I know)

 

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Just now, Searley said:

Hello Mr.Bear351,Yes I'm starting to lean that way.Don't want a Massive Pain Ordeal Mixing & Matching Parts & Bolts & Nuts That First Should/Might Go Together But They Never Will.I Never Thought Of That Coz I Just Assume That Most Of Those Things Would Be Exactly The Same To Make It $Cheaper & Easier For FORD Themselves,But As You Get More Experience With Anything You Have To Throw A Lot Out The Window And Start Again,You Like Playing Monoploy,"Go Back To Jail-Do Not Pass Go!" Thanks For Saveing Me Getting A Brain Tumour!,Searley.

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Searley said:

Hello Mr.Bear351,Yes I'm starting to lean that way.Don't want a Massive Pain Ordeal Mixing & Matching Parts & Bolts & Nuts That First Should/Might Go Together But They Never Will.I Never Thought Of That Coz I Just Assume That Most Of Those Things Would Be Exactly The Same To Make It $Cheaper & Easier For FORD Themselves,But As You Get More Experience With Anything You Have To Throw A Lot Out The Window And Start Again,You Like Playing Monoploy,"Go Back To Jail-Do Not Pass Go!" Thanks For Saveing Me Getting A Brain Tumour!,Searley.

 

 

 

Hello Thom,Ok So I Can Use The AU Head With Cam & Rocker Gear But Keep Evrything Else XH,Sounds Easier.I've Just Had Bad Luck With Single Coil Packs Over The Years And Thought That The Multi-Coil Might Be A Solution.As It Is I've Relocated The Single Coils Of My Fords To An Accessible Position For Easy Testing & Replacement Than The Traditional "Bolt It To The Side Of The Motor With All The Vibration & Heat So It Gives Up The Ghost Quicker And In A Pretty Difficult Position To Get To.I'd Like To Keep This XH Motor As Its Done One Only 125,000 Kms And Every 5,000 Kms The Wealthy Station Ownwer $Spent $3000.00 Replaceing Everything That Could Be Changed Not Just A Cheap Service.Anyhow I Come You Know All Of This Stuff?Did You Work In A Shonky Motor Replacement/Fitting Sort Of Wrecking Yard?I'm Fascinated How You Guys Know So Much!Even The Car Books Say Little Useful Info,Mucho Apprecio,Amigos!

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Hi searley, you’ll get the hang of quoting on the forum soon 🤣🤣!
In all seriousness, most of use have been playing around with these old shot boxes for too many years, it’s our passion! I myself am a mechanic and have quite a few friends that have the same ford addiction as myself so we learn off each other and help each other. Many hands makes light work as the saying goes. Also working in our favour is that Ford is either lazy or really smart depending on which way you look at it. For example: they used the same tailgate on the falcon Utes from the xa in 1972 up until the end of the xh in 1999. Things change slowly so a lot of parts are interchangeable between models, it’s all trial and error. Once you get known for your addiction people will start feeding it by giving you their old car, ask me how I know this!

As for your question on coil pack v single coil for the sake of ease of conversion you can stick with a single coil and distributor, just buy a quality coil ( think Bosch), it will last longer. Converting to a coil pack will be a massive effort. You will need either an ef or au computer along with the entire wiring harness as there is an additional row of output pins on the computer to control the coil pack. Not to mention headaches with the smartlock system. A j3 chip to get around it would keep the a/c compressor constantly engaged with au falcon computer but you would get sequential injection and cylinder shutdown technology ( for overheating protection ) as a bonus.

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