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xhadyboy

Liberty Gen 3 2.5 lt head gasket

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As the title says my young fellas Gen 3 Liberty 2002 rev d  is using coolant pretty quickly.

He has a lot of condensate coming out the exhaust but none in the oil YET.

This is as common  as the door handles on XD/E/F .On these motors it seems to happen between 200,000 + 250,000 kms.His is smack bang on 225km

Workshop quotes will be $12200- $1600. ? Going by some online chat. Not sure if that will include machining / or if its mandatroy.

Any full time mechanics on here seen/ repaired  these before ?

He's at uni and only works part time so it looks some shed time for Dad and Jack  coming up as most of the suby forums say engine out.

On line V.R.S  kits go for $250 - $350 non geniune Subaru OE.M  original around $500

Any tips/input  would be much appreciated .

Cheers Russ

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I've not worked on one, but worked with a bloke who had exact issues with his son's 2.5 Impreza. Unfortunately, it's an engine-out job hence the high cost. You can't get the heads off in-chassis (well not easily). He's a mechanic like me and he went and took it to a Subie specialist.

 

The problem is apparently a stray electrical current between the coolant and the head, causing electrolosis that eats the head gasket on that side. It only happens on the 2.5 atmo engines. 2.0 N/A and all turbo models dont have the same issues for some reason.

 

Funnily enough, as widespread as it is, Subaru won't recognise the problem. They will however sell you an extra earth lead kit for the cylinder head to fix the problem that doesn't exist.

 

Those quotes are not unreasonable considering all the other work they tend to do with the engine out. Rear main, rocker cover gaskets, plus some extras like cylinder head service (they carbon up), plugs, timing belt, clutch and flywheel if it's a manual are all best done while you're at it.

 

To compare, my mrs old Liberty has 285,000 hard k's on it with no head gasket issues. That's because it's a 2.0 donk. It's a total slug but just won't die.

 

Sure you can have a go at doing it, but if the block needs machining/repair, the engines are very peculiar things to work on. Might be cheaper to get a whole low km import engine and shove it in.

 

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i'm interested to hear how this goes, its the type of car i'd consider getting as the next daily. 

surely adding an earth strap/s after would be advised if this is an advised prevention.. 

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I’ve done it, I am a mechanic too. It’s a pain in the arse to do. It is a lot easier to do out of the car, you can lift the engine up to gain access but you’ll ruin your back. Those quotes seem too cheap, there is probably a minimum $600 machining the heads, $400-$500 for vrs kit since there’s two head gaskets plus timing belt kit, head bolts, cleaning, solvents & sundries and labour. You need a special rubber attachment on your roloc fitting on your die drinker to clean the block face as its aluminium with iron cylinder liners you can chew away the block.

Gerg put up some excellent advice on electrolysis. An additional earth cable is needed. You also need to reseal the alloy ( can’t remember convert it to or from aluminium oxide) you can stop it and reseal it by running a mix of 1 pet white vinegar and 3 parts water in the cooling system. Do this before doing the heads.

Personally I’d just fit a second hand motor, it’ll be cheaper

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Hey VB

Yeah I didn't think those quotes would have included machining. That would be mechanic workshop costs only.

Were lucky we have a couple of spare  cars for him to get around in till we get it all sorted.No rush means we can source some competitive parts.

Theres a couple of good subie forums, like this gem of a place that's shares the love.

Not sure what this bit of kit this is that you quoted " You need a special rubber attachment on your roloc fitting on your die drinker "

I hear ya about a new donk but you never know what ya getting into,like what are true kays,was it  serviced and have the heads been done? Might be buying more trouble

Hes going to few workshops today  to get some opions/quotes. When we brought it 18 months ago the timing belt was a new install we saw the workshop receipts.$1200

I think the FE we were going to get is now on the back burner ? Looked like a good project to.This might good training for him for the Barra swap into the FE and late nights for me. Anyways you only live once and don't want to die wondering and saying "what if ".

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Well an update on the Subaru Lib GEn 3.We found a local fella that wil do the engine strip down and head work.

Me and Jack are going to remove the block and take the engine to his workshop.With te coin we save doing it this way we are going to but an engine crane.

Is Ebay the way to go,alas not heaps and heaps on there 2nd Ebay  have new ones for about $220 -$260 or  is there a go to brand/shop for a new one ?

Down the track it will be used for the crossy to 351 convo

so 1 ton ?    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Big-Red-1-Ton-Foldable-Engine-Crane-T31002X/122105227115?epid=519574893&hash=item1c6e09e76b:g:YHcAAOSwKfVXKNFc

or 2 ton ?  https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Big-Red-1-Ton-Foldable-Engine-Crane-T31002X/122105227115?epid=519574893&hash=item1c6e09e76b:g:YHcAAOSwKfVXKNFc

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that one ton one is plenty.. its advised you remove the bumper to get in close enough. on full reach you only have 250kg capacity and with the load center favouring the rear(to angle the gearbox down) its probably closer to the limit.  (the 2 ton is probably just a new hole drilled closer to the pivot point? not useful for engine swaps)

supercheap have had sales on them, but i think they only get to about $200 anyway.  

beware used ones, as Mark(extremekarts )lent his out and it came back bent and compromised.. a second handy could also have hidden damage(nothing like a 200kg engine falling from the sky i bet)

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Subies are pretty good as far as engine placement goes, they sit quite far forward. I reckon no need to remove bumper, especially since the engine is alloy, etc. There is something funny about removing the driveshafts though, I seem to remember a circlip or rollpin that holds the shaft to the output.

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Get one from Repco or SuperCheap when they're on sale, normally around the $225/$250 mark, lot more likely to be decent construction and meet Aus standards.

Have a mate with a 2.5 Forester who had an engine failure, sourced a new motor, had it put in, plus new belts (including timing and timing tensioners), plugs (iridium), rocker cover gaskets, rear main, everything else worth doing, pretty sure he got change from $4k inc motor purchase - was a motor from a wreckers with under 100,000kms.

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Subies are pretty good as far as engine placement goes, they sit quite far forward. I reckon no need to remove bumper, especially since the engine is alloy, etc. There is something funny about removing the driveshafts though, I seem to remember a circlip or rollpin that holds the shaft to the output.

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Bang on.
There is a roll pin. Knock it out and the driveshafts fall out. No fighting stupid circlips!!
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Well an update on the Subaru Lib GEn 3.We found a local fella that wil do the engine strip down and head work.
Me and Jack are going to remove the block and take the engine to his workshop.With te coin we save doing it this way we are going to but an engine crane.
Is Ebay the way to go,alas not heaps and heaps on there 2nd Ebay  have new ones for about $220 -$260 or  is there a go to brand/shop for a new one ?
Down the track it will be used for the crossy to 351 convo
so 1 ton ?    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Big-Red-1-Ton-Foldable-Engine-Crane-T31002X/122105227115?epid=519574893&hash=item1c6e09e76b:g:YHcAAOSwKfVXKNFc
or 2 ton ?  https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Big-Red-1-Ton-Foldable-Engine-Crane-T31002X/122105227115?epid=519574893&hash=item1c6e09e76b:g:YHcAAOSwKfVXKNFc
Latest SCA catalogue

3daa16e040a37792417017409778a954.jpg

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Thanks Mr P we just assembled the grey 1.25 ton one it was an online for $199.00

We  already had a leveler so all good.We had the leveler from when we did the tranny swap in the xf ute paddock pig.Which by the way sounds like its running on 5 cylinders as of yesty.Sounds like a stuck valve.I ll put the comp tester on it and see.

Lucky i have an even uglier donor pig here with a sweet donk in it so this crane will get a work out in the next couple of weeks.

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