Jump to content
Bigflop

Budget boost rebuild, pistons and rings

Recommended Posts

Depends what motor valvey, if you dont have a dizzy its the only 'physical' way to adjust timing without computer getting involved.

I have been told that the sohc 4L is only good for 2 degrees on the dizzy anyway in stock form. Mines standard.

 

Unknown how far is too far on a barra.

Gotta be careful..

 

Only exception was the VCT AU. That can adjust its own valve to cam timing in higher rpm.

 

Jack.

 

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Has anyone experimented with an adjustable cam gear on a standard cam? Were there any gains from advancing or retarding it? I'm guessing there would be gains and losses at certain rpm points but I'm curious across a decent range of rpm.
I had one on my xh it had an ea cam so it wasn't stock but still a factory cam playing around with it on the dyno ended up with it 2 degrees retarded as the area under the curve wasn't reduced but it gained 8 kw at the tyres 3 degrees started to loose bottom end torque

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Valvebouncer said:


As previously stated Dave, they aren't necessary and I'll do the job properly so the head doesn't have to come off again. If decent bolts were good enough for ford the get over 300kw out of a Barra and last 700,000km in a taxi then revised well made bolts are good enough for my ute.

What kind of company that has 2 subsidiaries, one that can make bolts and one that attempts to? No thanks, I'll stick with blackxt suggestion for mace engineering, the more people I ask the better they sound.

Yeah, it's so hard to get decent quality parts these days - so much cheap rubbish out there.
Whether they be tierod ends, ball joints, suspension bushes, gaskets, or head bolts...

I'd definitely be interested to see the yield specs on the Mace bolts, and how they compare with stock, and ARP studs.

I read an article where someone did a yield test comparison on a bunch of different LS1 headbolts/Studs etc.
It was a very interesting read. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeah, it's so hard to get decent quality parts these days - so much cheap rubbish out there.
Whether they be tierod ends, ball joints, suspension bushes, gaskets, or head bolts...
I'd definitely be interested to see the yield specs on the Mace bolts, and how they compare with stock, and ARP studs.

I read an article where someone did a yield test comparison on a bunch of different LS1 headbolts/Studs etc.
It was a very interesting read.


Someone wrote it in response to Matt from sloppy mechanics reusing torque to yield head bolts on his LS motors.

I think the reused were better than new items both oem and aftermarket.


Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've got nason head bolts and timing set here for my turbo build. I'll let you know how they go.

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk


Ok no worries, dont mean to be negative mate just thought id share what i was told ect! Mind you im sure others have used some of there gear and its been fine.

You building ohc or xflow?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Bigflop said:

You rebuilding the bottom end?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

Yeah. I have a 94da and a 96da block here. We pulled the 94da down last weekend and the head mating surface doesn't look that good.

qGmSUW7.jpg

 We'll pull down the 96da on the weekend and see what it looks like.

I'm just using ACL duraglide bearings but i've got chrome rings. Everything else stock EF. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea thats rough hay. Im in the middle of sourcing a clutch for my ranger lately so unfortunately my block and crank will sit for another couple weeks . Yea i think ill more than likely use ACL gear.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×