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Demmo

xg fuel pump

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11 hours ago, Valvebouncer said:


I've seen performance ignition advertising their rebuilt distributors on eBay, $250 exchange. I wasn't sure if they used genuine Bosch components or not.
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/222569602865
So Dave, they only use genuine Bosch components? If so I'll be buying one!

You shouldn't pay more than $170 for a brand new OEM one outright.
See if anyone has any - PAT use to keep stock I think, but not sure on their part number.

However it says $320 outright - which is a bit outrageous IMO.
If I really really needed one, I'd probably pay that though...

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9 hours ago, Demmo said:

Then it starts missing again grr
line pressure stayed at about 210 kpa after shutdown
So the last New ebay pump faulty so 3rd time lucky So now on hunt for a dizzy

Have New leads coil a t.p.s and oxy sensor ordered
So the elimination continues

So what brand of fuel pump was the ebay one,
and what brand is in there now?

Only use NTK Oxy sensors on these things - NTK is what was fitted from factory.

A dud O2 sensor shouldn't cause bad missing.
Is it a rhythmic miss, or a random irregular fish-bite miss?

I would head towards a hall effect sensor in the dizzy, and/or injectors which are clogged.

Another thing that can cause random missing at idle, is a burnt out idle control circuit, in the ECU.

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So what brand of fuel pump was the ebay one,
and what brand is in there now?
Only use NTK Oxy sensors on these things - NTK is what was fitted from factory.

A dud O2 sensor shouldn't cause bad missing.
Is it a rhythmic miss, or a random irregular fish-bite miss?
I would head towards a hall effect sensor in the dizzy, and/or injectors which are clogged.

Another thing that can cause random missing at idle, is a burnt out idle control circuit, in the ECU.
Just a quick update we have now replaced the distributor Starts fine runs smooth very slow on revs build up
Now there is no miss idles steady great If I goose throttle it's ow to build up revs
During a diagnostic reader
KOEO 11. 10- 11. 11. End
KOER 12. 22. 52. 12 22. 52. End
Can someone tell me in layman terms these mean ie high idle fail ect. Meaning what is broken?
Smart comments I have already heard thanks
O an thanks for suggestions already
Cheers Demmo

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

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The slow to rev up could be retarded ignition timing, did you bridge out the two pins in the diagnostic plug and adjust it?
No we just set tdc to marks on bottom pulley. And the rotor pointing to notch at no.1. How do I find out which pins as on my old xf. there was a plug under bonnet. Nothing on xg or my xh.. looks like I gonna have to Google it
Thanks

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

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No we just set tdc to marks on bottom pulley. And the rotor pointing to notch at no.1. How do I find out which pins as on my old xf. there was a plug under bonnet. Nothing on xg or my xh.. looks like I gonna have to Google it
Thanks

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Ok just put timing light on and it is now showing the pulley market as about 1&1/2 cm pasts the marker when idles which was about same place before we changed distributor
So do you think that it's too advanced or ? Think I better go have a beer or 3 and play with Google an not the redhead
Cheers demmo

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

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Sounds awesome so far!
What distributor did you get?

To set the timing correctly, you need to have the ECU in diagnostic mode. (Aussie EEC EFI vehicles, did NOT come with a SPOUT connector, like the American Fords did)
If you're pulling codes, you must have some sort of code reader already I assume?

If not, get one of Murray's code readers. They are truely awesome.
 

Code 12 - is usually a stuck IAC/ISC valve, and/or a burnt out IAC valve circuit in the ECU
(IAC = idle air control valve/Idle speed control valve - the solenoid looking thing, on top of the throttle body)
edit - a dodgy MAP sensor can affect idle speed - solve MAP code first.

Code 22 - an issue with the MAP sensor - which will definitely affect how it runs. (MAP sensor is the jigger on the corner of the header tank bracket, up near the firewall)

Code 52 - ignore that, as an XG ute will never have Speed Sensitive Power Steering.
(in fact, I wonder why that code is even there. Is it the original XG ECU?)

 

edit -

Code 11 - means everything is good
Code 10, is just a separator code, denoting a pause, between displaying intermittent codes and hard codes.

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reply to daves questions  I purchased 2 fuel pumps a few years ago from "dirt racer" in qld   I only replaced one on outback  the other left in cupboard   when it appeared to be faulty I purchased  another    which so far seems to be ok

the oxy sensor was purchased about same time from repco but never installed

distributor is bosc motor craft the sensor on the side has no brand  this was sourced from local engine builder

yes I have a code reader from murray but get a little lost with terminology

the idle control valve may be faulty as I did clean it in thinners  and I have since read this may be a no no  so I may have to find replacement   quick question  are the icv the same on xh as the wires go into the solenoid  on opposite side

the map sensor was swapped from outback so it was running so can only assume it in working condition

with regards to the old dist. it appears to have been filled with water as there was corrosion on the inside walls ect.  so I guess this was also part of problem  

anyhow tomorrows another day  

thanks for everybody's input  so far

cheers demmo

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Ok just put timing light on and it is now showing the pulley market as about 1&1/2 cm pasts the marker when idles which was about same place before we changed distributor
So do you think that it's too advanced or ? Think I better go have a beer or 3 and play with Google an not the redhead
Cheers demmo

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk


As Dave said, it needs to be put into diagnostic mode. Putting a timing light on it when it is running normally ( not in diagnostic mode) is pointless as the computer takes over to advance and retard the timing. Essentially you set the base timing and the computer takes over from there.

If I get time I'll take a photo of the process in my workshop manual.

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Ok,ya 12 code... will be ISC solenoid, wiring to it or ecu faulty.

 

Symptoms- rough idle or stalls due to lack of rpm.

 

22- map sensor out of range.

If ya used ya xh one... dont think they are same... if not....

 

Map sensor fault

Vacuum leaks

Wiring

Or ECU

 

Symptoms-

Detonation

Poor performance

High fuel consumption

Surge

Stumbles

 

52- its a power steering switch thing... XG dont have one..... lol.

 

So most points to

ECU.....

Try using correct map... from xg.

Also make sure there are no vacuum leaks on intake and pcv valve is working.

 

If no go.. clean with carby cleaner or renew ISC solenoid. Carbon builds up.

 

Still no go.... grab ya ecu code and grab one for $50 at a wreckers same.

 

Still no go....trailer it down here and buy me beer princess..... lol.

Only taking the piss mate... XG can be infuriating to get shit right... once it is..

Mmmmm. XG magic...

 

Hang in there kitty!

 

Jack.

 

Edit... ya dizzy is right... you done it correct.

To check proper timing... base timing

There are two pins on the left of the diagnostics where you plug your code reader in.

Top one is test , bottom one is earth.

Alligator clip these two together and your in base timing mode when the ute is running and you can set timing to correct spot or check if out.

Any other way.... your getting an advance-retard reading.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ya ho  we are now in celebration mode all back to normal well nearly goes like the clappers except for the noise from thy holly exhaust   o well it can wait 

a big thankyou to the guys who took the time to help and advise a big thankyou to the valve bouncer  for pics

now off to the pub for a wee dram or 3 and a counter lunch for the war office

cheers demmo

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56 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

What ended up being the problem?

I think it was several failures at around same time  being failing fuel pump,  possible blockage in the lines  an filter,  and dizzy cap wearing out causing erratic spark and of course a old impatient buggar with nil mechanical knowledge  jumping to the wrong conclusions   so hopefully she will give me another few years of daily travel of 200 kls a day 

thanks for your help along the way  cheers demmo

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