CHESTNUTXE

ACTION MANS 92 XF UTE

2,043 posts in this topic

Add the costs up. 

To me boring, decking a new set of pistons in a bigger bore, std volume oil pump and a gasket set and your time will be money well spent.  Add to that the benefit from the bigger bores and hello.  

To me it's a no brainer.  You have all the big gear.  Why one earth would you go to a smaller cam that's not going to suit the manifold?  Correct me if wrong but this head has 7-16 stud mounted roller rockers as well.  Seems a shame to waste that

failing to plan is planning to fail. 

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i have the tools and the time to do all this,im just pissed off ol,m8 talked me out of flat tops,he still thinks that comp ratio is ok for that cam ,hmmmm.B)

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Why don’t you get Ando76 to build you another bottom end and put all your other gear onto it?? At least you know it will be right the first time.
Personally I’d stop seeing “olm8” it sounds like he has wasted enough of your time and money ( WOFTAM).

You could sell your existing bottom end by putting another cylinder head on it as one of your reco engines to help re-coup some lost money.

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question ,if i replace the pistons do i need to get them balanced on the rods or balanced seperatley as the combo is balanced already or ?

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Decide for yourself mate, it is easy for us to spend your money. If the cam is too big for what you want, change it. If it is what build up the compression how you want.

Would be a pity to machine a block which you have already spent the money on.

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If the rods are balanced yes pistons can be equalised to each other but if the crank was balanced to the old piston/rod combo, it will need re-balancing to the new ones.

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Your bob weights will change so the crank will need to be re-balanced, unless the pistons weigh the same as the old ones (not likely).
Edit: I need to refresh more often or write faster.
Great minds think alike

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2 hours ago, matt_lamb_160 said:

Your bob weights will change so the crank will need to be re-balanced, unless the pistons weigh the same as the old ones (not likely).

Edit: I need to refresh more often or write faster.

It’s a 6 crank you don’t do bob weight! You balance crank by itself and then flywheel by itself and you make sure pistons+rods are within half gram and it’s done, usually harmonic balancers come balanced 

grab the Yamaha pistons if you find them cheap and let me know I’ll give you a set of rods for them for a carton 

they are 40thou and will open up the bore nicely, you’ll need rod bolts 

if you want to go that way pm me

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28 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

I might just throw it in the drink at palm beach reef and put a barra in there lol

won't be able to tune that by reading plugs either though.. just get the thing tuned properly then decide i reckon.. it may go plenty good with the right jetting even though it's not built to optimal specs

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22 minutes ago, matt_lamb_160 said:

That will be how it was balanced. You can just change the pistons.

I read that it was balanced as an assembly and over thought it. The rods are balanced so the pistons just need to be.

I never let them balance it as a whole and thats a good reason for it, I take the crank to be balanced by itself and then the flywheel/flex plate etc. Pistons and rods i do myself they are easy 

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I think you should go with a big lift short duration hence low comp bleed on your next cam, you don't really have much of a choice

normally you flow the had and pick a cam or pick a cam and try and get the head to flow to what the cam needs, you're lucky it's a manual and don't have to spend more money on re-doing the converter! that's why flowing the head is so so important because from there you can pick the cam and from there you pick the converter and diff ratio so it's all zen until it makes milkshake on the asphalt 

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It’s a 6 crank you don’t do bob weight! You balance crank by itself and then flywheel by itself and you make sure pistons+rods are within half gram and it’s done, usually harmonic balancers come balanced 
grab the Yamaha pistons if you find them cheap and let me know I’ll give you a set of rods for them for a carton 
they are 40thou and will open up the bore nicely, you’ll need rod bolts 
if you want to go that way pm me
Yeah good point but out of curiosity is a later counterweighted crank still independently balanced (ie not bobweighted)?

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Its a 84da bottom end off ando 1 piece rear seal, true dean even on miss match set up next time at the dyno just for the hell of it and another hundred bucks i want him to floor it and it should hit 170-180 rwhp 

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all 6 cyls should be inherently balanced, it's the most balance configuration for a 4 cycle engine, well apart from mating two together for a V12 smoothness, the crossflow 6 has a long stroke hence the bad harmonics but it is still balanced crank, no need for bob weight etc. 

the EF was meant to be the best generation of that engine before the AU and they increased counterweights number to get it smoother but the bean counters stepped in and fucked it up, they skimped on a lot of things for the EF because from egineering to production it was completely ruined by the accountants, the suspension was fucked because the accountants didn't want to spend the extra few quid on the recommended spring/dampers so they used the crappy ones from ED but with a slight geometry and weight change of the EF it made the rear end completely fucked, they skimped on the engine in many ways but blew money for other crap like fucked the bearings because it was cheaper but engines developed crank float and had to use the correct bearings after the first few services but we got multiple coils and no dizzy! then ford realised it's cheaper to rebuild the EF into the EL so they skimped on the coil packs and re-introduced the dizzy but finally fixed the crank, the first generation EL cranks are the best, much better balanced than the EF and much lighter but there were not many around as mid way they started to use the AU crank

no ford straight 6 sold in australia needs bob weights, the best cranks are out of the EL series1, the 2nd best are the EF fully counterweighted ones if you can find one that hasn't been flogged to 2-3mm end float

I been looking for a good EF/EL crank for about 6 moths now, have not found a non fucked one! so not sure how you guys just walk to a wreckers and find them, every EF one I had a look the end float is fucked and series 1 EL are extremely hard to find, as soon as I find one I'll slap together another 75000 xflow! this time with a revised cam and a 750DP as well as a C4, got over manuals in xflows, if I feel like driving a stick I'll take the STI out

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I just found a el complete car off a guy here at work i can get it for a couple hundred i might buy it to wreck its a early 98 would that have the crank

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